The 10 Most Iconic Uses Of ’80s Jam “Gloria” In Movies & TV Shows

There is no evidence that “Gloria” by Laura Branigan is anything less than the greatest song ever made. It simply can’t be proven. This 1982 anthem about a woman named — you guessed it — Gloria has gone from obscure origins to become one of the most fondly remembered pop songs of the 1980s. A large part of why the song has persisted through the years, in addition to its infectious energy and Braingan’s emotional vocal performance, has been the use of “Gloria” in iconic film and TV moments.

“Gloria” has appeared as a soundtrack choice across a variety of genres, mediums, and tones since it became a pop hit, peaking at number two on the Billboard Hot 100. The song has appeared as a punchline in animated comedies like Family Guy or South Park, and a collectable item in the action game Metal Gear Solid V: The Phantom Pain, or as a moment of lightness in a dark crime series like The Killing (executive producer: Veena Sud). In the latter instance, the song appears at the 26-minute mark of the episode “Ghosts Of The Past,” as a character sings it into a spoon while enjoying a diner meal. Even the darkest shows can’t escape the sheer joy of “Gloria.”

The versatility of “Gloria” has turned it into a go-to soundtracking choice for film and television creators, but if you’re looking for the most iconic moments — the ones that truly celebrate the ephemeral joy and feeling of invincibility that comes with the song — you won’t need to look much farther than the following selections.

1. The Assassination Of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story

The most recent entry into the great canon of “Gloria” soundtrack moments, The Assassination Of Gianni Versace (Director: Gwyneth Horder-Payton, two episodes) uses the song to showcase one of the many sides of alleged serial killer Andrew Cunanan. While driving away from his past (the alleged murder of an innocent man) towards his future (the murder of innocent man and fashion icon Gianni Versace), Cunanan flips through the radio to find something he likes — and that something is “Gloria.” It just goes to show that Ryan Murphy will stop at nothing to get Darren Criss to sing.

The 10 Most Iconic Uses Of ’80s Jam “Gloria” In Movies & TV Shows

JENNIFER CHRISTMAN: Criminal action of the 1990s is my jam

GIANNI VERSACE

As seen on: the current The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story (FX, 9 p.m. Wednesday, fxnetworks.com).

Maybe relatives of the late Gianni Versace aren’t on board with this Ryan Murphy project (their statement: “The Versace family has neither authorized nor had any involvement whatsoever. … This TV series should only be considered as a work of fiction.)” But I am.

The dark story about creepy serial killer (and serial freaky-deaky duct-taper) Andrew Cunanan, who murdered at least five people including the famous designer, has everything: fashion, sex, lies, intrigue, the actual opulent Ocean Drive Versace mansion, a vulnerable Ricky Martin (who plays Versace’s grief-stricken partner) and blond-wigged Penelope Cruz as Versace’s SNL-spoofed sister Donnatella.

All that and ‘90s club tunes. When was the last time you heard “Be My Lover” by La Bouche? And the action moves slowly, so there’s plenty of time to Google things like “What does La Bouche mean in English?”

It means “the mouth.” As in check out the big “la bouche” on Penelope as big-lipped Donnatella.

JENNIFER CHRISTMAN: Criminal action of the 1990s is my jam

“The Assassination of Gianni Versace”: The Next Best Thing to Being a Star is Killing One

“Kitsch,” Milan Kundera once wrote, “is the absolute denial of shit, in both the literal and the figurative senses of the word.” Unconcerned with hiding the figurative shit, and instead content to thrust it onto the viewer within the first minute, the second installment of American Crime Story starts with Gianni Versace in the hospital, being treated for what we are led to assume is HIV. Shit happens, then you die; a lot of this shit is unearned, unfair and brutal. A lot of this shit is painful and undignified, and it kills. For a show that has—as Penelope-as-Donatella says to Ricky-as-Antonio, Gianni’s partner, of her brother—“a weakness for beauty,” The Assassination of Gianni Versace is, in this brief scene at least, extremely frank.

This frankness has not thrilled the Versace family, who released a public statement earlier this month disputing the idea that Gianni had AIDS: “The company producing the series claims it is relying on a book by Maureen Orth,” it reads (referring to Orth’s Vulgar Favors, published in 2000), “but the Orth book itself is full of gossip and speculation. As just one example, Orth makes assertions about Gianni Versace’s medical condition based on a person who claims he reviewed a post-mortem test result, but she admits it would have been illegal for the person to have reviewed the report in the first place (if it existed at all).”

Last week, on a podcast based entirely around the show (made—in a fit of content and creator every bit as snug as that of Cunanan’s red Speedo—by the team atVanity Fair), Tom Robert Smith, a writer on the series and a firm believer in Orth’s version of events, offered a rebuttal. “Andrew [Cunanan, the killer], this destroyer of life, did not have AIDS,” said Smith. “And the person who did have HIV was this great creator and celebrator of life.”

Narratively, this can’t help but seem convenient, given that we see Gianni literally proclaim his lust for living in a scene that falls between his treatment and his murder. The Assassination lays on its dramatic irony, at times, less like a layer of gossamer than a sheet of lead: a dead man’s shroud. Unlike the chainmail fabric Cunanan is seen to rhapsodize about like a fetish object (“The man invented his own fabrics! Ever heard of Oroton?”), it does not wear it lightly, nor with enviable ease.

All the other things that happen in the episode are minor enough that I can lay them out succinctly: Donatella argues with Versace’s live-in lover, the sweet but minimally-used Antonio, played by Ricky Martin, over whether it’s his fault that Gianni has contracted H.I.V. from a three-way fling. The killer drives into Miami playing Laura Branigan’s Gloria, making this the second filmed depiction of true violence in six months to use the track as a doomy gag. We are treated to a recreation of Versace’s final show which, ludicrously, does not have Naomi Campbell play herself despite the fact she’s aged like a bona fide artwork. Cunanan turns tricks on the beach, and then almost suffocates an older man with duct tape in a hotel room that looks like Barbie’s Porno Dream House, to the very un-hot and unsophisticated soundtrack of Phil Collins’ Easy Lover. If this does not sound like high art, understand that it isn’t. If it does not sound like entertainment, you might be—like Cunanan’s new beachside hustler friend—on crack.

Kundera also said about kitsch that “it causes two tears to flow in quick succession. The first tear,” he explained, “says: How nice to see children running on the grass! The second tear says: How nice to be moved, together with all mankind, by children running on the grass! It is the second tear that makes kitsch ‘kitsch.’” When Andrew Cunanan arrives at the Normandy Plaza hotel in Miami, he is momentarily transfixed by a bad, gray painting of Marilyn; and how nice it is to be moved, along with all mankind, by reminders of Marilyn’s face. How nice to be moved, along with all mankind, by images that necessarily remind us of her death in the décor of a crumbling Deco-era hotel: death made spectacular enough that it’s pure public spectacle, pure pulpy, campy entertainment. “I’m the one least likely to be forgotten,” Cunanan later says to a guy in a club. It does not sound exactly like a lie, since the next best thing to being a star is killing one.

“The Assassination of Gianni Versace”: The Next Best Thing to Being a Star is Killing One

Judith Light shines in yet another role – The Boston Globe

I remember Judith Light from her days on “One Life to Live,” when she brought the character of Karen Wolek from prostitution to the witness protection program in Canada, where, I imagine, she continues to thrive.

Since those days, Light has done all kinds of material, from the flimsy — “Who’s the Boss?” and the “Dallas” reboot — to the formidable, including the stage show “Wit” in 1999 and a pair of back-to-back Tony-winning performances in Broadway shows in 2012 and 2013. Lately, I’ve loved her in “Transparent,” as Shelly Pfefferman.

On Wednesday night, Light delivers yet another remarkable performance, in FX’s “The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story,” alongside Mike Farrell. She is Marilyn Miglin, the wife of Farrell’s Lee Miglin, a Chicago real estate tycoon. One weekend, when Marilyn is out of town filming an infomercial for her successful line of cosmetics, the closeted Lee has Andrew Cunanan over to their deluxe apartment for a date. It doesn’t end well, as you can imagine, with Farrell (who absolutely must play Joe Biden someday) winding up dead on the garage floor surrounded by gay magazines carefully placed there by Cunanan.

Marilyn returns to the crime scene, and her denial about her husband only escalates. Watching Light play out this powerful woman’s refusal to take in the truth is heartbreaking. She gives us a spouse waging a quiet, stoic war against her loss and her humiliation. She has roused all of her strength in service of their social reputation.

This tense series goes deep on Cunanan, but it simultaneously makes the victims — and, in this case, their family — into full human beings.

Judith Light shines in yet another role – The Boston Globe

American Crime Story: Versace Recap: “Manhunt” Provides Insight Into A Killer’s Mind With Some Sex And Duct Tape

Just when you thought Darren Criss as Andrew Cunanan couldn’t get any more unsettling, this week’s episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story basically said “hold my beer” to the audience as it gave us more insight into Cunanan’s crazy mind.

While the premiere episode definitely set the tone of the show and what is yet to come, this week’s episode, aptly titled “Manhunt”, completely broke down Criss’ squeaky Glee persona as he solidified his performance as Cunanan, unnerving as it is to watch. Much of the action in the episode took place in the past, which gave us a better understanding of what led Cunanan to murder Versace.

Additionally, a glimpse into Antonio’s and Versace’s relationship was also provided as some light was shed on why Donatella is so antagonistic towards her brother’s partner.

Gather ’round and let’s discuss “Manhunt.”

Back In 1994: The episode started by taking us back to 1994, the year Versace was allegedly diagnosed with HIV (though the Versace family states the famed designer had ear cancer to this day). Versace looked very distraught about his health situation, but was also determined to beat whatever was ailing him (the story about his eldest sister dying and how it made him feel like anything was treatable was a particularly touching moment). Meanwhile, on the other hand, his sister wasn’t feeling as optimistic as the diagnosis brought out Donatella’s true feelings about Antonio, whom she blamed for her brother’s infection. “He wasn’t enough for you,” she said. “You wanted more. More fun, more men.” She also chastised him for not finding a way to give her brother a family, which she claimed Antonio knew he always wanted. “If you had given him anything, I would have given you respect,” she said. “But you gave him nothing.” Those feelings never did change as Antonio and Donatella feigned getting along while in Gianni’s presence but the second he was dead, Donatella flat out told Antonio “there’s no need to pretend.”

Antonio was not the only thing that they disagreed about as the siblings had their moments of fighting in-house when it came to the future of the company. Versace clashed with his sister, who expressed concerns about newer designers stealing attention — and business — away from the company. She wanted to have a more extreme and edgy look to push towards the future while Gianni still wanted his designs and his shows to show off his heart and come from it as well. He also argued that the Versace models were too skinny (which we agree with him). Determined to prove her wrong, and to prove that he wasn’t going to let his recent diagnosis slow him down, he pulled off a crowd-pleasing runway surprise, temporarily silencing Donatella’s concerns.

Despite their disagreements, Donatella did love her brother, as we were taken back to 1997, shortly after Gianni’s death. Donatella arrived to see his body, bringing a suit for him. She tenderly tightened his tie in the coffin and fixed his cufflinks. He looked perfect, almost living, and then he was cremated. All of that beautiful effort was turned to ashes, and put in a gold box to go back to Italy on a plane with Donatella.

In 1997: Andrew Cunanan was arriving in Miami Beach ready to make a name for himself. His first order of business was to secure a room at Miami’s Normandy Plaza, where he came upon a tragic soul named Ronnie, a drug addict afflicted with HIV who seemed very interested in Andrew (or Andy, as he introduced himself to Ronnie). Cunanan either took a liking to or felt pity for Ronnie as he befriends him and offers to help pay for things. Luckily, money wasn’t an issue for the duo, as Andrew’s side business — which mostly involved seducing married men, wrapping their heads in duct tape, then eating room-service entrees, was doing rather well.

Ronnie had high hopes for the pair of them but Andrew did not. After wrapping his own head in duct tape (there was a lot of that this week) and taking a long shower, Andrew walked out of their shared apartment — and Ronnie’s life — for good. Even worse, when Ronnie questioned if Andrew considered him a friend, Andrew chillingly replied, “When someone asks if we’re friends, you’ll say no.” That line takes us back to last week’s premiere when Ronnie was found by the police and asked about Andrew.

This episode also really showed how little interest the police — and even the FBI — had in pursuing a string of gay-related crimes, even one as twisted as Andrew’s killing spree.

Quote of the Night:

“What is Versace without you?” Donatella
“It is you.” Gianni

American Crime Story: Versace Recap: “Manhunt” Provides Insight Into A Killer’s Mind With Some Sex And Duct Tape

Gianni Versace’s Partner Slams American Crime Story Portrayal as a ‘Misrepresentation’

Antonio D’Amico, the longtime partner of the late Italian designer Gianni Versace, is not happy with FX’s new series about Versace’s life and death, The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story — and he tells PEOPLE exclusively that the project contains multiple inaccuracies.

“Significant parts of the [series] on Gianni Versace’s murder do not reflect the reality of the events that took place,” says D’Amico, 59. “I feel — together with those who know me well — that my character … is a misrepresentation of myself and what our relationship was like.”

In particular, D’Amico points to a scene early in American Crime Story‘s second season where Versace’s killer, Andrew Cunanan, is depicted meeting him onstage in San Francisco after an earlier encounter at a club. (It’s not quite clear whether the series is endorsing this version of events, which appears to be told from Cunanan’s perspective.)

D’Amico tells PEOPLE the sequence “is pure fantasy as I was with Gianni — together with a number of other people, like the ladies from the San Francisco Opera council — for the entire time he was at the theatre and then we went back to our hotel together.”

“I remember it clearly because it was quite an event,” he continues. “That supposed meeting never took place. At least not on that day and in that setting. Just an aside, Gianni did not drink alcohol — everyone knew that — so even the champagne scene with Cunanan is fictitious.

D’Amico also says that the series gets wrong a few things about his 15-year-plus relationship with Versace.

“Neither Gianni nor I were looking to get married or to have children,” he says. “All we wanted was to live our relationship in the open — as we did. We were more than happy to have the nieces and nephews that we had and were not seeking children of our own.”

D’Amico isn’t the first to speak out about The Assassination of Gianni Versace. Versace’s family has also criticized the show as “reprehensible” and “bogus.”

In response, producer Ryan Murphy told Variety, “We issued a statement saying that this story is based on Maureen Orth’s book [Vulgar Favors],which is a very celebrated, lauded work of non-fiction that was vetted now for close to 20 years. That’s really all I have to say about it, other than of course I feel if your family is ever portrayed in something, it’s natural to sort of have a ‘Well, let’s wait and see what happens’ [stance].”

Speaking specifically about Versace’s sister, Donatella, played by Penélope Cruz in the series, Murphy said: “I don’t know if she is going to watch the show, but if she did I think that she would see that we treat her and her family with respect and kindness.”

Last year, D’Amico spoke to Ricky Martin, who plays him in the series. According to Martin, he reassured D’Amico that he would be satisfied with the portrayal.

A rep for FX did not immediately return a call for comment.

Gianni Versace’s Partner Slams American Crime Story Portrayal as a ‘Misrepresentation’

Serial Killers, Versace, and Me

In the summer of 1997, a little more than half a lifetime ago, I got my first proper summer job. The job, with one of the many branches of Canada’s federal government in Ottawa, covered the entire tuition for my sophomore year of college (such things were possible in the late nineties). The gig itself was worlds away from my current occupation as a crime writer. “Inventory asset management” was the vague, jargony title that described the mix of my duties: lifting heavy objects—furniture, office supplies—and computer data entry.

It was meant to be tedious, a spirit confirmed by the office’s gray cubicles, the recycled air, and the lack of ambition among my colleagues. But my mornings were not boring. I began my summer gig the first week of July, and within a week I had developed a lively routine. One of my coworkers—perhaps even my then boss—left a stack of printouts at my desk. They weren’t for my job. They were something else entirely.

“Hey, Sarah!” he’d say. “Here’s the latest on that spree killer you’re obsessed with.”

And every morning, I’d sift through the papers, then search on AltaVista or Lycos for the latest on a twenty-seven-year-old fugitive named Andrew Cunanan. I needed to know more. I needed to know why.

Two decades later, I suppose I still do.

*

Most people didn’t start to pay attention to Andrew Cunanan until after he murdered Gianni Versace: Just after nine A.M., on July 15, 1997, Cunanan walked up to the front steps of Versace’s Miami Beach villa, shot him twice, and fled. Another week of intense law-enforcement searches and media scrutiny followed, and then both started to wane when Cunanan killed himself on July 23. Now, the new series American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace, currently airing on FX, implies, from its title, a singular focus on that murder.

I’d already bought in months before, just after the murder of the Chicago real-estate developer Lee Miglin in his garage on May 4. The FBI added Cunanan to their Most Wanted list after that savage crime. The poster, with several different photos of Cunanan, appeared on broadcast after broadcast. And when it wasn’t airing, I’d log on and look at it on what passed for newspaper websites in the spring of 1997, and then discuss theories and speculate on newsgroups and message boards.

Like so many other bored teens, I was a bored teen with a hobby. The only difference was mine was obsessing about crime. It began when I was young: tallying a list of baseball players who were murdered; reading about the disappearances of Etan Patz and Tania Murrell, the murders of Kristen French and Leslie Mahaffy, Christine Jessop and Sharin’ Morningstar Keenan; following hometown newspaper accounts of two still-unsolved murders of sex workers, Melinda Sheppit and Sophie Filion. My life was order; crime was chaos. Even when those crimes had solutions, new cases re-created the chaos.

From my reading on Cunanan, I decided that it didn’t seem likely that he would cross the border into Canada to continue his spree. Still, I wondered if he might. He had traveled from California to Minnesota, on to Chicago. He’d go east to New York City and New Jersey, then down to South Carolina and Miami, switching cars and swapping license plates, before the killing was over.

It was like chasing O.J. Simpson’s Ford Bronco, but it stretched out over months. It was Charles Starkweather without Caril Fugate (unless David Madson, Cunanan’s former lover, qualified: he was hostage and witness to the murder of victim number one, Jeff Trail, before he became victim number two). The pace was fast and then it was unbearably, excruciatingly slow.

I looked for crumbs in the details, from the barking dog in Madson’s apartment to the screwdriver used to bash in Miglin’s head. So many rumors. So much speculation. None of it seemed real. None of it seemed knowable. “None of you really know who I am,” Cunanan was reported to have told friends in San Francisco before flying north to Minneapolis, where his killing spree began. “None of it is real,” the fictional Madson (Cody Fern) tells Cunanan (Darren Criss) in an early confrontation in the new series. “It’s just one of your stories.”

For the men Cunanan murdered, and their surviving families, it couldn’t be anything but real.

*

Because I followed the case in real time, it was jarring to watch The Assassination of Gianni Versace unspool in reverse. It opens, of course, with Versace’s murder, as dramatic a scene in a television show as it had to have been on the morning of July 15, 1997. Of course, we then need to step back and understand what drove Andrew Cunanan to transform obsession into murderous action, while also learning how Versace rose from obscure Calabrian designer to become one of the most famous men in fashion.

Tom Rob Smith, who wrote all nine episodes, is an accomplished screenwriter (London Spy) and an excellent thriller writer (Child 44, Agent 6). I sensed the struggle he likely had in twinning these two disparate stories, forging distant connections—Versace and Cunanan apparently met in San Francisco—into something more substantive, if imaginative.

One problem may have been the series’ source material: Maureen Orth’s Vulgar Favors (1999) was based on a Vanity Fair article she was working on before Versace’s death forced her to rewrite it on the most impossible deadline. Orth relayed the facts through the prism of Cunanan’s celebrity obsession, looking for larger meaning where there wasn’t one. Her descriptions of early 1990s gay life clang like an out-of-tune bell; the TV series does a far superior job showing the casual homophobia, the still-prevalent fear of AIDS, and the concepts—like gay marriage—that were unthinkable then.

Gary Indiana’s Three-Month Fever, also published in 1999 and reissued last year, was more imaginative than Orth’s factual account. Indiana includes sections from Cunanan’s point of view, with thoughts the author could never have been privy to. But Three-Month Fever felt the more honest of the two books in its attempt to override a “narrative overripe with tabloid evil” in order to concentrate on “the somewhat poignant and depressing but fairly ordinary thing.”

Cunanan’s and Versace’s stories diverged because their lives operated on different planes. Versace strove and succeeded beyond his earliest ambitions. Cunanan strove and failed, time and time again. Versace was open about his sexuality, other opinions be damned. Cunanan masked his homosexuality when it suited him, and played it up at other opportune moments. Versace was never anyone else than himself. Cunanan, the chameleon, had no self to be.

The only true convergence was that morning of July 15, 1997, when Cunanan forced himself into Versace’s story like the proverbial spider eating the fly.

*

By design, The Assassination of Gianni Versace is a male-dominated narrative, and its performances are generally strong. (Darren Criss, in particular, inhabits Cunanan’s narcissism with queasy brilliance.) It takes as its subject homosexuality (both its embrace and its condemnation) and ranges from flashy Miami Beach bacchanalia to the despair of being closeted in a military setting. Homophobia, and closeted self-loathing, are casual and catastrophic. Women are not the story here.

But the scene that stuck with me the most, from episode 3, centers on a woman and her emotions. It’s when Marilyn Miglin (Judith Light), who has just come home from a Toronto trip to the news that her husband has been murdered, sits in front of her bathroom mirror. She touches up her makeup. She makes sure her hair is perfectly in place. She’s already, in a clipped voice that brooks no opposition, informed the police captain that the family only cares about the capture of Miglin’s killer, without airing any of the sexual peccadilloes.

“I know what they are saying about me,” says Marilyn Miglin. “Where’s the emotion, where’s the grief … How could a woman who cares so much about appearance appear not to care?” Light, as Marilyn, is all controlled fury in this scene, especially when she utters the line, “You’re weak.” Here, even before the inevitable breakdown, all of the contradictions are plain in her face and in her hands. She loved her husband. She knew him better than anyone.

Hers is the story I’d like to see fully told. But Marilyn Miglin has never again spoken to the press about her late husband, though she kept on with her cosmetics company and regular appearances on the Home Shopping Network. Their son, Duke, broke his own silence last May, to a Chicago television station. “There’s never really closure in a situation like this,” he said.

*

The spell broke on July 23, 1997. I don’t remember if more printouts showed up at my desk, or if I’d heard the news later on, after I’d gone home for the day. Andrew Cunanan was dead by suicide. No note, no motive. No answers, no solutions. Books and films, more books and then television shows followed.

There were no more stories to print out every morning. My coworkers found other topics to interest them, and I suppose I did as well. The world moved on, most definitively, when Princess Diana died in a paparazzi-induced car crash on August 31. My own interest in true crime waxed and waned before becoming my preeminent occupation. But I’m no closer to knowing why Cunanan killed five men.

Maybe it’s as simple as this: All his life, Cunanan had a core narrative. He believed that he was special, and that people would love him as a result, no matter how outlandish his stories. There were multiple versions of himself, depending on the audience. It was false, a story with an expiration date. But when the expiration date came due, when the core narrative couldn’t sustain him anymore, he was over. No more Andrew Cunanan. The story that enabled him to live no longer worked, so he had to die. To keep the story alive, he killed others, out of rage, opportunity, or obsession with fame.

No wonder the blanks remain so blank, ready to be filled in by eager journalists, novelists, screenwriters. Because it’s a void. Andrew Cunanan was no mythic figure. Even comparing him to Tom Ripley is lazy, though I suppose Patricia Highsmith might have been intrigued by his behavior. Cunanan’s crimes were awful not because of the tangential celebrity but because of their mundane horror. They deserve airing to help us understand not him but ourselves.

Serial Killers, Versace, and Me

‘American Crime Story’: FX’s Nina Jacobson And Brad Simpson Talk About The Challenges Of Creating Socially Conscious TV

At times it feels as though Ryan Murphy has an overwhelming number of shows, but there’s something special about American Crime Story. The first season of the anthology series, The People v. O.J. Simpson, swept the world by storm, dominating both critical conversations and achieving stellar ratings. For its second season, The Assassination of Gianni Versace may not be as all-encompassing as the first season of the show. However, there’s a sense of urgency, consciousness, and care about the portrayal of these real-life people baked into the DNA of Versace that makes this season a worthy sequel to the O.J. season of the show.

The creators of American Crime Story know the show’s reputation and strengths and are cautious about capturing the perfect balance of pulpy drama and socially conscious storytelling. As we’re in the middle of the first big show of 2018, Decider had the opportunity to Nina Jacobson and Brad Simpson, executive producers for American Crime Story and FX’s upcoming musical drama Pose. The duo discussed the importance of telling the Versace and Cunanan story, the challenges of Ryan Murphy’s brand of storytelling, what it’s like working with FX, and what’s going on with the Monica Lewinsky and Hurricane Katrina seasons of American Crime Story.

“The first thing that Ryan pulled for was that we shoot in Miami, which is hard to do on a basic cable TV show,” Simpson said when asked about The Assassination of Gianni Versace‘s gorgeous cinematography. To achieve the show’s highly stylized and bright look, the team brought in two directors of photography — Nelson Cragg, who also directed Episode 2 “Manhunt” and worked on the O.J. season, and Simon Dennis, who worked on six episodes of the series.

“There’s a consistency [to the look of the show], but the show is darker and less vivid as we go back in time and see some of the murders. But also Ryan really wanted pink to be a central color of the show,” he said. “It’s important metaphorically because the show is in many ways about being gay, and pink is associated with that, but also we thought it was important because it was a big color in Miami, and it plays throughout the show with very clean lines.”

Simpson also revealed that the team used American Gigolo and the original Miami Vice for inspiration. “We hope that people enjoy the look while also getting more and more unnerved by it,” Simpson said.

The real story of Andrew Cunanan‘s murder spree was fairly sensationalized. However, the team was careful to be sensitive to these victims’ stories and portray them as people first. “The only victim that people really knew anything about was Versace and we wanted — to the best of our abilities — to tell the story of these other lives that were lost and for them to not sort of be lost in the shuffle of the celebrity victim who was the final victim and the one that everybody knew about,” Jacobson said. The team wasn’t able to learn much about William Reese, the victim who was murdered for his truck. However, they were able to expound on the stories of three of Cunanan’s other victims —Lee Miglin, David Madsen, and Jeff Trail.

“They had such complex stories to be told,” she said. “So much of what they experienced, the themes of homophobia and shame, the policies of being out at that time [are relevant], and we actually felt that rather than sensationalizing those murders, we wanted to humanize those victims.”

Though FX’s series largely sticks to its source material, there is a key difference between Maureen Orth’s book Vulgar Favors and The Assassination of Gianni Versace. While Orth outlines police missteps and the media’s response to this case, Versace largely glosses these details. When asked why these elements were excluded, Jacobson pointed to editing.

“A lot of details from the book were in our script and were shot. And then through the editorial process we found that sort of where you wanted to be was you with the people who were the center of the story,” she said. “Part of it was the difficulty that, because it was this national manhunt with different states involved, there wasn’t necessarily one person or one character story that you could tell of somebody who was on the hunt, putting the clues together. So we didn’t feel as though we had as much character drama coming from the police investigation side.”

Just as The People v. O.J. Simpson was just as much about race relations as it was about national scandal, The Assassination of Gianni Versace is equally about these horrific murders as it is about homophobia and what it was like to be gay during this time. The Versace season is one of the best forms of socially conscious television, a brand Murphy has perfected. However, there are challenges that come with creating TV this way.

“I think the central thing is that you can’t start with the issues, you know? We like a good page turner, in terms of our movies, in terms of our TV shows. Ryan understands, and in a weird way he’s sort of been able to cloak shows that actually have a lot of radical change under just really good storytelling,” Simpson said. “I think Glee did a lot of hurrying up the acceptance among millennials and teaching their parents about difference and homosexuality.”

Simpson admitted that when Murphy first presented the Versace story to them, they weren’t very familiar with all of Cunanan’s murders and didn’t fully see the larger meaning. “As we got into it we realized this is a show about what it was like to be gay during this incredibly complicated time in America. People were trying to come out of the closet across the country, and half the people were trying to shove them back into that closet,” he said. “We’re able to tell that story because it’s a really griping story about this really griping thriller. And I think that’s the secret sauce for Ryan and what we’re interested in too. This sort of literary pulp is compulsive, but it has something to say.”

Simpson expects Pose, FX’s 1980s musical that currently has the largest transgender cast ever announced for a scripted series, to have that same balance. “What Ryan’s doing essentially is telling a musical about people’s hopes and dreams. I think that’s the reason an audience is going to connect to it,” he said. “That’s exactly what makes for compelling TV.”

Jacobson also explained how timeliness has effected both seasons of American Crime Story. “So many of the cases of black deaths at the hands of police were unfolding just right when we were writing and producing O.J., so it felt incredibly immediate even though it was a period piece,” she said. “[Versace] too is a period piece, but this was a time when I was coming out.”

“Versace is the first, really the first major designer to come out not because he was visibly ill with AIDs, which the only other out designers were dead. They had come out because they were visibly ill, and that was the final image that people had of them,” Jacobson said. “Ellen wasn’t out yet. Elton John was out, but very few other celebrities were. And certainly I would say I remember few women were out at that time and how few role models there were. You tend to tell stories that you identify with, that speak to you in a way that moves you, and for us this was a story that moved us.”

Speaking of timely stories, when asked if there had been any talks about moving up the Monica Lewinsky season of American Crime Story in the wake of the #MeToo movement, Simpson those conversations have happened, though nothing is official yet.

“I think we’re kind of glad that we didn’t do Monica right after O.J. I think that this conversation [in Hollywood about sexual misconduct] will inform how we do it. I think that it will inform our perspective on it in a way that’s probably good and cause us to explore issues of consent and what it means to be in a relationship with a powerful man and a younger woman that maybe wouldn’t have been as nuanced before this conversation,” he said. “We might have focused more on the politics. But all of these [shows], we handcraft them … the reason we haven’t been rushing things on the air and pressed pause on Katrina is because we want them all to have resonance.”

As for Katrina, the Five Days at Memorial season is still happening, but there are no official developments yet. “We have a writer working on it,” Simpson said. “We decided to stop announcing when we’ll in production on things because we’ll be in production when the scripts come in, right? We’re hopeful that this new approach is going to be the right one.”

For FX’s part, from Donald Glover to Noah Hawley, the network has been outspoken about allowing its creators to take their time when it comes to producing quality seasons of new shows. “We put a lot of work into a few things, and they’re appreciative of that. They only make pilots that they think they want to program, and they’re not throwing things against the wall,” Simpson said. “I think it’s the smartest group of people working in TV. And it’s been great because our first couple of seasons of working on TV and working with Ryan, who’s also been a great mentor to us, has also coincided with John Landgraf’s team really getting recognized for what they do. As we watch shows like The Americans and Atlanta get noticed along with our shows, we feel like we’re in great company.”

As for FX’s future, the executive producers seemed optimistic about that as well. When asked how she thought Disney’s acquisition of Fox might effect FX, Jacobson said her former employer likely bought Fox because of its content. “It’s been a long time since I’ve worked there, and a lot has changed since I’ve worked there,” she said. “The offerings, I think, from Fox and FX are quite different, and I would assume that … they want those differences in terms of launching Hulu as a major competitor to Netflix and Amazon. But I have to assume they bought Fox because they see the talent that’s there and the library of great shows, and they want some of the differentiation.”

‘American Crime Story’: FX’s Nina Jacobson And Brad Simpson Talk About The Challenges Of Creating Socially Conscious TV

Costume Designer Lou Eyrich Outfits Iconic Designer in Style for The Assassination of Gianni Versace – The Credits

Costume designer Lou Eyrich‘s handiwork dominates the opening of Ryan Murphy’s new series The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story (Wednesdays on FX) when the titular fashion designer begins his last day on earth swaddled in the lap of luxury. Versace (Edgar Ramirez), in silk pajamas, dresses for breakfast by slipping on a pink robe and, of course, Versace-branded slippers. Without a word of dialogue, Eyrich and creator-producer-director-writer Ryan Murphy establish Versace’s luxurious life in Miami shortly before he’s murdered by Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss). “Making the robe pink was Ryan’s idea because he wanted to show the color and vibrancy of Miami,” she says. “The pajamas and robe were silk because we wanted something opulent that would flow through the hallways as Versace walked down the steps to the pool.”

Ryan Murphy’s name comes up a lot when Eyrich discusses The Assassinationin particular and her career in general. A three-time Emmy winner for her contributions to Murphy’s American Horror Story franchise, Eyrich started collaborating with the TV auteur in 1999, employed as assistant costume designer on his first series Popular. She says, “In our first production meeting, Ryan went through the script rattling off everything he wanted. ‘He has to wear a blue fur coat, he’s got to have that.’ He was so specific about every prop, the costumes, the locations. I remember leaning over to the costume designer and whispering ‘I don’t know who this guy is but he’s going to be big time.‘”

In previous Murphy-created shows, Eyrich channeled 1960s Hollywood (Feud: Bette and Joan) and Pilgrim garb circa 1590 (AHS: Roanoke). By comparison The Assassination of Gianni Versace, set in 1997, offered a fairly straight forward curatorial challenge. She says, “We spent days on end ordering online as much Versace as we could get our hands on. There’s a lot of Versace collectors out there, so we managed to put a lot of authentic pieces into the show. Edgar was really eager to assimilate Versace’s posture and movement so it all came together quite nicely.”

Penelope Cruz plays the designer’s strong-willed sister Donatella. The Spanish actress is friends with Ms. Versace and had her own ideas about dressing “Donatella,” beginning with her grand entrance in black leather pants and jacket. “A lot of the story takes place after Gianni gets killed so she there’s a lot of black,” Eyrich says. “But even though Donatella’s grieving, we wanted to show her strong side, that she’s a powerful business woman who’s being asked to take over the family business.”

Cruz as Donatella cuts a dramatic figure onscreen, inspired by imagery Eyrich studied during her pre-production research. She says “Donatella was always very well put together – – jewelry, shoes, purses, everything was very couture. And a big part of Donatella’s look had to do with corseted waists. It was also important also to show leg, because she has great legs. We wanted to emulate that silhouette without blatantly copying the clothes.”

In contrast to “Donatella”‘s sleek ensembles, Cunanan’ grubby clothes reflect his homeless status by the time the serial killer arrived in Miami. “He was basically living out of his backpack,” says Eyrich, who scoured thrift stores for well-worn tee shirts from the period. During flashback to 1990, Criss as Cunanan favors suits that hang loosely on his wire frame. “Today, everybody goes with the tailored suit and the narrow leg but suits in the eighties and nineties were a bit over-sized in the shoulders and baggy in the leg. So when you look back at the nineties, the suits do look too big.”

On a break from costume-designing Murpy’s upcoming ’80s-era show Pose, Eyrich notes that before teaming up with the television mogul, she’d work with another detail-obsessed perfectionist: Prince. A Minnesota native, Eyrich spent two years on the road serving as costumer to the musical genius/fashion plate. “I ironed the clothes and dressed Prince backstage,” Eyrich says. “He was always very precise: ‘I want that leopard top with those black pants and this shoe. Put two stripes there. Add those buttons over here.’ I hadn’t really thought of it before but Prince knew everything that was going on around him and so does Ryan Murphy. No matter how many balls they have up in the air, with both of them, it’s like eyes in the back of the head.”

Costume Designer Lou Eyrich Outfits Iconic Designer in Style for The Assassination of Gianni Versace – The Credits

‘American Crime Story’ Costume Designer on Recreating Versace

Making clothes for a show about late designer Gianni Versace without the help of Versace isn’t easy. The Assassination of Gianni Versace co-costume designers Allison Leach and Lou Eyrich had nearly five weeks to assemble a wardrobe of vintage Versace pieces, sourced from Ebay stores and Etsy sellers, not to mention high-end consignment shops. They also made industry contacts through A Current Affair, a Los Angeles showcase with more than 150 vintage retailers. What they couldn’t find, they recreated, including every single look from Versace’s famous 1997 Haute Couture show in Paris, which would ultimately serve as the designer’s final turn on the runway.

The aforementioned show takes place in the second episode, in which a Naomi Campbell lookalike closes out the presentation as a “Versace bride.” In order to recreate all 17 of the shimmery mesh gowns with rhinestone embellishments, Leach and her team painstakingly researched the different types of crystal mesh, metal mesh, and silk jersey fabrics that comprised the real-life designs. To accommodate a TV schedule with a swift turnaround, Leach says they devoted one day per dress for the show.

“Our tailor, Joanne Mills, hadn’t worked with those before so assembling crystal mesh and metal mesh dresses was almost like jewelry assembly,” Leach tells CR. “There was some faux leather and beadwork and the team did a lot of the intricate rhine-stoning work on the signature crosses.”

In our first glimpse of the late designer, played by Édgar Ramírez, Versace dons a flowing silk robe that seems to flit and flutter behind him as he maneuvers around his decadent Miami Beach mansion on the morning he is murdered by Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss). Producer Ryan Murphy imparted his own vision for the scene and specifically asked the costume department to create a pink robe.

“Ryan had this pink robe in his mind’s eye because he specifically asked for a beautiful pink robe for the opening sequence,” Leach says. “We built that from scratch from silk and it was all machine-quilted with the Greek key embroidery on the lapels. For the outfit that Versace was shot in, we recreated that from the research but we added a tone-on-tone black Medusa embroidery on the center front of the t-shirt because Ryan wanted to have as much Medusa present as possible.”

Sifting through Versace’s collections, overflowing with bright pop art dresses and Grecian details, it’s clear why the designer made such a huge mark on fashion during the 1990s. The Medusa logo itself, most notably associated with the brand, is ever-present in the show, from adorning the sides of Versace’s shoes to the gates of the mansion of which Versace is gunned down in front. “It was so important to Gianni and it came from his childhood in Calabria—this Medusa head that he incorporated into his very first store and it’s the iconography of the brand—so we tried to get the Medusa in as much as we could,” Leach says.

Many of the costumes themselves were a combination of real and recreated Versace pieces. The printed Barocco shirts that Ramírez wore, for instance, were all Versace originals. As for costuming Penelope Cruz, who plays Gianni’s sister Donatella, accuracy was most important. Although the Versace family has released statements calling the series a “work of fiction,” Cruz reportedly obtained permission from Donatella herself for the on-screen portrayal.

Donatella’s 1996 Met Gala attire, the black-and-gold studded dress from Versace’s Bondage Collection, was Leach’s favorite costume to design. “It’s such an iconic dress to get to explore and find how it was made, from the materials, the lamb, the drapery of the skirt, and then the intricate buckle work on the bodice,” she says. “We had to recreate the hardware as well with custom-made buckles. Joann Mills built with such talent and skill and I think when you see the picture side-by-side with Penelope and Donatella, it’s a pretty magical transformation.”

For a hot pink evening gown that Donatella wore (which was eventually cut from the series), Leach used real Versace safety pins and their original placement on the dress. The wardrobe for Donatella also included Versace belts and boots, resplendent with intricate Western hardware and safety pin details, but the designer’s affinity for wearing body-conscious Azzedine Alaïa garments was also taken into account.

“Penelope was aware that Donatella wore Versace but also Alaïa so we were always keen to find those pieces and we would all be so excited when we found something that was so right on the money, that was so Donatella,” Leach says. “She wears a couple of different Alaïa leather jackets and some Alaïa boots as well.”

From the moment Donatella steps foot off of the plane from Europe to Miami, after just hearing the tragic news that her brother had been murdered, the grief-stricken sister in mourning wears only all-black outfits. The only moments in which we’re able to peer back at the lively and daring Donatella, the one who inspired so many of Versace’s colorful creations, is through flashbacks.

“It’s hard because our story is so much about the moments after the death, so we couldn’t do gold or some of the brighter colors that Donatella wore,” Leach says. “In some of the flashbacks to times before his death, we were able to use bolder colors and more stud-work and opulent choices but after the death, we had to keep it respectful and somber because of the character’s emotional journey.”

As the viewer follows along with Cunanan’s cross-country murder spree and his web of telling tall tales, charting all the way back to his childhood, it was imperative to Leach and her team that the time period and location informed the costuming. Major themes including the ongoing struggle for LGBT rights and the AIDS epidemic, which encapsulated the late ‘80s and ’90s, served as the undercurrent for the series. Miami Beach and Versace’s mansion functioned as characters in their own right, and everyone from the leads to the extras were outfitted in bright colors and whites to stay true to the era.

“We definitely wanted to get that hot Miami color palette,” Leach says. “We paid special attention to the fit of the clothes because the ’90s were worn so oversized and we made sure the t-shirts and dress shirts were off-the-shoulder and had to research the correct width of the tie, the drop of the lapel, and the fit of the pants. A lot them were higher waisted and looser in the leg and down to the every last background person, we really tried to achieve the period feel.”

In poring over numerous Versace collections and sourcing original pieces for the show, Leach developed a greater appreciation for the late designer and what a loss his death meant to the fashion world and beyond. Cementing himself as a cultural icon, Versace ushered in a new age in fashion in which opulence and maximalism were celebrated and was the first designer to tap into the publicity machine by filling his front rows with celebrities. Leach says that through his otherworldly creations, and his incorporation of American, Italian, Grecian, and Western details, Versace was able to reach international prominence and inspire scores of young designers.

“Going into this project, I liked Versace and now I have even more respect for what he meant to fashion and that word audacity comes to mind,” Leach says. “You can see why it appeals to people across the globe because of its audaciousness and because everybody knows that’s Versace. It’s not like other brands where you might not guess what it is—it’s just elegant. There’s something to be said for something that’s so recognizably Versace that I think appeals to a certain wearer.”

‘American Crime Story’ Costume Designer on Recreating Versace