The real story behind the best ‘Versace’ looks

When the cast and crew of “The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story” attempted to recreate the life and fashion sensibility of the murdered Italian designer, immersing themselves in his flamboyant aesthetic was key to telling the story well.

So they set out to showcase his dramatic world with both setting and costume: Producer Ryan Murphy obtained permission to film the series, which debuts Wednesday on FX, inside Versace’s former home, Casa Casuarina in Miami, where the rooms are decorated with bold tile, frescoes and seashells. And actor Edgar Ramirez, who plays the doomed designer, embraced Versace’s creative vantage point, which was heavily influenced by classical motifs.

“He had a poster of the Roman empire in his shop in Calabria, [Italy,]” Ramirez said at a recent panel discussion of the series. “When we think about the Roman Empire, we tend to think about washed-out statues . . . But the reality is that the Roman Empire was very colorful. The blues were very intense and the gold was intense.”

Recreating Versace’s outlandish designs for the series became a painstaking project for Emmy-winning costume designer Lou Eyrich, who not only tracked down genuine vintage pieces, but created looks for the show without any cooperation from Gianni’s sister (and current artistic director of the brand), Donatella Versace, or the Versace company itself — which has denounced the entire production as a “work of fiction.”

“Gianni Versace was fearless and bold in his use of color. He understood the female physique and how to make a woman feel and look sexy,” says Eyrich, who has also designed the costumes for “American Horror Story.”

Versace was also fond of using mixed media in his designs. For example, a Greek key pattern seen on the border of the iron gates to his villa appears in his clothing for men. “The more you look [at his creations], the more you see [those motifs],” says Eyrich.

Since his death at age 50 in 1997, many of Versace’s pieces have been scooped up and preserved by collectors. Eyrich had to scour the Internet to outfit not only Ramirez, but Penélope Cruz, who plays Donatella, and Ricky Martin, who plays Antonio D’Amico, Versace’s domestic partner of 15 years.

Many pricey items were out of reach for Eyrich and her team: At stores such as the Way We Wore in LA, the asking price for a Versace shirt from the era is a hefty $1,500, and an animal-and-baroque-print skirt suit goes for $4,500.

“We didn’t have the budget to get the pieces we really wanted. We ordered a lot online,” Eyrich says. “We were competing with a lot of serious collectors.”

Of all the actors in the show, Ramirez was the one Eyrich was able to provide with the most authentic duds. “Almost all of Edgar’s costumes were Versace,” she says. “We sourced the jeans, the shoes and the shirts [from vintage shops]— which I’m sure he loved.”

One exception is a shocking-pink bathrobe Versace wears to breakfast at his Miami villa on the morning he’s murdered by Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss). Eyrich had this made to Murphy’s specifications — she says the producer requested something with some “float” in it, so she used an especially lightweight silk. “When Edgar walked, it billowed,” Eyrich says.

Eyrich relied on her “genius tailor” Joanne Mills to remake a dress Versace designed for his sister — a sexy, black leather number accentuated with a series of men’s leather belts linking the bodice to a choker.

“We got every photo we could of [the original] dress,” Eyrich says of the frock that Donatella wore to a party at the New York Public Library celebrating Vogue’s centennial in 1993. “We were very careful to show our utmost respect; I didn’t want to make it look like a made-for-TV movie [design]. I want to pay tribute but not ever minimize. Joanne recreated all the hardware — the belt buckle — and made the full-leather skirt.”

Eyrich and her team also created a whopping 17 looks for a pivotal scene at Versace’s final haute couture fashion show in Paris in 1997, which plays out, in flashback, in the second episode, which airs Jan. 24. Donatella argues with her brother about the direction of their company and needles him about not being able to keep up with younger designers John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.

“You were the future, once,” she says snidely. Ever defiant, Versace tells his younger sister that great design comes “from the heart.” He reduces her to tears of shame with a runway show that unveils one inspired creation after another: A sleek, white evening gown slit up the side, a glittering red minidress and the pièce de résistance — a metallic mesh mini “wedding dress” covered with crosses, worn with a silver-headband veil. The daring piece is for the “Versace bride,” Gianni declares, not a “virginal” one.

“He had this rock ’n’ roll approach to couture,” Ramirez has said. “At this level, in high fashion, he mixed sexuality and glamour, something that, until he came along, were on two different tracks.”

The real story behind the best ‘Versace’ looks

The Men at the Assassination of Gianni Versace Premiere Were as Ridiculously Well-Dressed as You’d Expect

If January’s relentless cold has you feeling like staying in every night, the silver lining is that there is plenty of irresistible TV to consume right now—like the The Bachelor, Black Mirror, and soon enough, The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story. The cast attended the premiere of the show in Los Angeles yesterday and while none actually wore Versace (the family doesn’t approve), they certainly nodded in that direction with their clothes. Penelope Cruz wore a red velvet number by Stella McCartney that was very high on drama, and the men? Well, they brought just as much going-out flavor to the table. But it worked. Really well, in fact. It’s almost enough to make you want to start going out again. Almost. Here’s what they wore and why we liked it.

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Jewel Tones

Edgar Ramirez and Finn Wittrock doubled down on deep, dark, slightly mysterious color, and wisely kept their accessories to a minimum. And they did this in two different, equally sound ways. Ramirez stuck with one color, varying up the hues in his tie and shoes so nothing felt too matchy-matchy. Wittrock, meanwhile, mixed two almost-black tones for the slickest spin on color-blocking ever.

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Turtleneck Knits

GQ creative director-at-large Jim Moore will be the first man to tell you: the black turtleneck is the easiest way to upgrade any suit. Here, Matt Bomer shows a sophisticated way to wear the Gianni Versace-approved staple, while Darren Criss turned up the volume with an abstract floral jacket.

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Fluid Fabrics

Don’t have the cash for a burgundy suit, or the…gravitas to pull off a black turtleneck? Allow Harris Dickinson (who isn’t in the show but is a style up-and-comer we’ve had our eye on) and Ricky Martin (definitely in the show) to present a third option for looking fly on your next night out: adding some beach-weight fabric to your look. If you’re under 35 make it a breezy printed shirt like Dickinson, if you’re over 45 make it a sophisticated evening scarf like Martin.

The Men at the Assassination of Gianni Versace Premiere Were as Ridiculously Well-Dressed as You’d Expect

‘American Crime Story’ Costume Designer on Creating Versace Wardrobe Without Help From Versace

One of the most hotly anticipated TV projects of the new year, The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story comes to FX Jan. 17. Ryan Murphy’s series tells the story of serial killer Andrew Cunanan’s cross-country killing rampage, which culminated in his murder of Italian fashion designer Versace on the steps of his Miami villa on July 15, 1997, and offers a window into the gilded lifestyle brand he created, which at the time of his death counted Princess Diana, Elton John and Elizabeth Hurley as fans.

Costume designer Lou Eyrich (who also worked on Murphy’s Feud: Bette and Joan) was charged with creating ‘90s-era Miami “heat and sizzle,” as she calls it, including rococo-style Medusa head print shirts and loungewear for Gianni Versace (Edgar Ramirez) and hand-studded leather jackets, skin-tight jodhpur leggings and vibrant silk gowns for sister Donatella (Penelope Cruz), who took over the business after his death.

And she had to do it without any help from the actual fashion house of Versace, which is not involved in the project.

Instead, Eyrich and her team bought up hundreds of pieces of vintage Versace from dealers around the world, including The Way We Wore and Catwalk in Los Angeles and C Madeleinesin Miami. “I think we drove the prices up,” she says, adding, “We were on the Internet 12 hours a day.”

“Miami was party city in the ‘90s. It was very bodycon dresses, tank tops, short shorts and heels, hot pastels, and a lot of skin on the boys as well as the girls,” says Eyrich.

What she couldn’t find or afford (the original Versace chainmail gowns, for example, were too expensive), she recreated. “We were cautious to make it look as amazing as it could to honor the house of Versace and Donatella, so we tried to use the best silk, and when we used safety pins as a decorative element, we had them plated in gold,” says Eyrich, explaining that Cruz is friends with Donatella Versace, and has worn many of her designs, so it was very important to her to be respectful.

For a pink silk, curve-hugging evening dress, for example, “we collaborated with Penelope on the design. We wanted her to look uber-sexy, so it’s corseted and skin-baring. We were inspired by a Versace design from 1996, but it’s not an exact replica because we didn’t want to rip them off. First of all, that’s not legal, but also we didn’t want to insult them.”

Gianni’s wardrobe is resplendent with print pajamas and loungewear, which he wore around his mansion, Casa Casuarina, where the crew was able to film. “Ryan said make a pink bathrobe, so we did,” says Eyrich, adding that the director was very specific about how he wanted the designer to walk through the halls of his home, trailing flowing silk behind him.

“Ryan is such a visual person, he wanted to show the opulent world of the Versace estate in opposition to Andrew Cunanan’s upbringing,” explains Eyrich, who describes Cunanan as a gigolo and his style as “West Coast preppy aspiring to look rich.”

There’s even a scene of the designer’s final fashion show in 1997, for which Eyrich painstakingly recreated 17 looks that came down the catwalk. “How he cut for women was just exquisite,” she says, adding that just as they were wrapping production in September, Donatella staged her own supermodel-studded 20th anniversary tribute to her brother’s style during Milan Fashion Week, paying homage to many of the original design codes of the house, including color, print and yes, chainmail. “We said, ‘Oh my god!’ How perfect.”

‘American Crime Story’ Costume Designer on Creating Versace Wardrobe Without Help From Versace