Darren Criss commits ‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ – ONTVtoday

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Q: What is it like for you to play Andrew Cunanan, the person who committed the crime, in “The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story”?

A: It’s been probably one of the most exhilarating characters that I’ve spent time with, because he is so all over the place, and he’s capable of truly great things. (There’s been talk) about the sort of similarities between somebody like Gianni and someone like Andrew. And on paper, you go, “No, that’s insane. You know, you can’t possibly compare the two.” And of course, in many ways, they’re very different men.

But I think we try to find as many common denominators not only between these two men, who had different levels of brilliance that were guided in very different ways, but we hopefully find the common denominators between the people watching. I think when (they’re) watching Andrew, my goal is to have people really exercise their sense of empathy – because from the get-go, we all know that he’s capable of something truly horrendous, and there’s no debate about that. However, I really hope that we can find that we all have more things in common with some of the worst people we can think of, than we do differences. Those differences are small, but huge in content.

Q: Did you have much rehearsal time?

A: The pace (of making television) is breakneck. Penelope (co-star Cruz) was telling me how there is a different pace, and for me, I’m numb to it. I’ve been doing it for a while now, and my mind is calibrated to that way of working. She was like, “You really have to be prepared, and you just get thrown right into it.”

And that is a logistical truth. We really do have to just get on in there. It would have been a luxury for all of us to have gotten together. I don’t have much with these (other actors), I think for obvious reasons.

Darren Criss commits ‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ – ONTVtoday

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Geektown Radio 144: Mr Robot, American Horror Story Composer Mac Quayle, UK TV News & UK TV Air Dates!

On this week’s Geektown Radio podcast we have all the usual tv news and airdate information, and the return of Composer Mac Quayle, the man behind the music for the brilliant ‘Mr Robot’, and pretty much ever Ryan Murphy show currently out there!

Mac won the Emmy for his score on Golden Globe-winning suspense-thriller ‘Mr Robot’ starring Christian Slater and Rami Malek, and also received 3 additional Emmy nominations – 2 for his outstanding Main Title and Score for Ryan Murphy’s hit series, ‘Feud: Bette and Joan’ starring Jessica Lange and Susan Sarandon, and 1 for his Score on ‘American Horror Story’, starring Kathy Bates and Angela Bassett.

His other work includes ‘American Crime Story’, both ‘The People v. O.J. Simpson’ and the upcoming ‘Assassination of Gianni Versace’, which is due to land on BBC Two in February. He also scores ‘Scream Queens’, starring Jamie Lee Curtis and Emma Roberts, Murphy’s procedural drama ‘9-1-1’, and will be scoring Murphy’s new project ‘Pose’.

Ricky Martin still angry cops couldn’t stop Versace killer

Ricky Martin was living in Miami when Gianni Versace was murdered in 1997.

And Martin — who plays Versace’s partner, Antonio D’Amico, in “The Assassination of Gianni Versace” — says he’s shocked by how long it took local police and the FBI to find Versace’s killer, Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss).

“Miami’s a very small town. It’s very easy to find people,” says Martin, 46. “And [Cunanan] wasn’t even hiding.” In documenting Versace’s murder, Ryan Murphy’s FX miniseries exposes the many mistakes made as the police and FBI pursued Cunanan, who killed four men in 12 days before gunning down Versace on the steps of his South Beach mansion.

“He went to a pawn shop and sold something and showed his ID. And he signed the paper as Andrew P. Cunanan,” says Martin. “There’s a moment [in the miniseries] where the FBI agent opens the [car] trunk and you see all the [10 Most Wanted] fliers. And the other agent asks, ‘How come all these flyers are in your trunk?’”

D’Amico cradled Versace (Édgar Ramírez) on the steps of his villa after Cunanan shot him on July 14, 1997. Martin says he’d been invited “many times” to the villa, Casa Casuarina, while he lived in Miami, but that he never went — until the morning he filmed the brutal murder scene. He remained secluded inside the ornate home, “just finding the emotions and everything. And there was a moment where I said, ‘Please, say Action. I’m ready, I’m ready.’”

Martin says D’Amico spoke to him before production started about his relationship with Versace — a source of conflict with Versace’s sister Donatella (Penelope Cruz). “He told me, ‘My relationship with Gianni was beautiful and full of respect.’ He said, ‘We were free. We were open.’ If someone talked bad about Antonio, Gianni would become a lion and defend him. After 15 years, it’s not a game. It’s a real relationship.”

In the series, Donatella doesn’t see it that way, blaming D’Amico for bringing strangers into the house for threesomes. Although Martin and Cruz are friends, Martin says, “Penelope told me, ‘Ricky, you can’t be good to me because I’m not supposed to like you.’ And I would try. I would try for [Donatella] to like me. But it wasn’t happening.”

In his will, Versace left D’Amico approximately $30,000 a month, “inflation proof,” for life. According to Maureen Orth’s book, “Vulgar Favors” — the series’ source material — Donatella and her brother Santo Versace negotiated with D’Amico to take those payments in one lump sum.

“The sad thing is back then [Versace and D’Amico] couldn’t marry,” says Martin, who married his partner, Jwan Yusuf, in 2017. “If they were married, the laws would protect Antonio. And that was not the case.”

Martin dismisses the Versace company’s criticism that the series is a “work of fiction,” citing Orth’s book, including sources who say that Versace and Cunanan met seven years earlier in a San Francisco club called Colossus.

[D’Amico, who lives in Italy, has said Versace never met Cunanan.]

Martin is asked why he thinks Cunanan perpetrated his crimes, but has no concrete answer.

“No one knows. And no one will ever know,” he says. “It makes me really angry. It’s not that [Versace is] dead. It’s why did we allow it to happen.”

Ricky Martin still angry cops couldn’t stop Versace killer

Revisiting Chicago murder, FX series depicts Lee Miglin as gay, close to killer

Even at a time when the city routinely logged two or more homicides a day, this one stood out.

It occurred in the Gold Coast. The victim: Lee Miglin, a 72-year-old real estate tycoon. He’d been bound and tortured. His killer had stuck around long enough to eat and shave.

The 1997 murder was front-page news in the city — soon to be a global story, when investigators connected the dots of a cross-country killing spree that ended with the shooting of fashion idol Gianni Versace on the steps of his Miami Beach mansion.

On Wednesday, murderer Andrew Cunanan’s Chicago stop comes into lurid focus in episode three of FX’s “The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story.”

It portrays Miglin, played by Mike Farrell of “MASH” fame, as the loyal husband to cosmetics magnate Marilyn Miglin (Judith Light), but also a married man tormented by his secret gay life.

Early in the episode, just before Cunanan — a gay escort/con artist — shows up on Miglin’s doorstep, we see the real estate developer, his wife out of town, lighting a candle and falling to his knees before a Catholic altar in his basement.

“I try. I try,” he whispers, his quavering voice full of guilt.

The scene that follows — Miglin and Cunanan kiss, shortly before the escort leads the developer to the garage, ties him up, tortures him and kills him — remains controversial. Miglin’s family has vociferously denied he knew Cunanan or had any kind of relationship with him. The Miglins declined to comment for this story.

John Carpenter was a crime reporter at the Chicago Sun-Times at the time and a lead reporter on the story, one that took him to both coasts. From the start, Carpenter said, the murder was a “heater,” reporter parlance for a case that attracts a lot of media attention. After the initial reporter briefings, police released few details.

“We were getting sort of a general sense of what the murder was,” said Carpenter, now a freelance reporter in the Chicago area. “Then at some point fairly early on that shut down instantly.”

Was someone trying to protect the Miglins? Carpenter says he doesn’t know, but it wouldn’t surprise him. Miglin was both well-connected and well-liked, he said.

But if the attack was random, as police would later suggest, something didn’t make sense to reporters.

“To me, what everybody always felt was that it was clearly somebody who knew that Marilyn Miglin was away for the weekend,” Carpenter said. There also was no forced entry into the home, according to media reports.

Sun-Times editors were less interested in being able to run a “tawdry headline,” as they were in filling in the missing pieces to a widely read story, Carpenter said.

The FX series relies on Maureen Orth’s 1999 book “Vulgar Favors” for much of its source material.

“What specifically happened in the moments leading up to Lee Miglin’s death is known only by Andrew and Lee. This is true for almost all of Andrew’s victims,” Brad Simpson, the show’s executive producer, said in an emailed statement. “Our writer, Tom Rob Smith, had to dramatize what we believe happened that weekend starting from the established facts of the crime scene. Based on the evidence, we believe that Lee and Andrew did know each other, and Andrew’s attack, as with all his victims except for William Reese, was targeted and specific. We used Maureen Orth’s book and consultancy, as well as the FBI records and the statements from witnesses inside the records for research and background.”

Farrell, the actor who plays Miglin, told the Sun-Times his research for the character involved reading widely about the case.

“But what you have to deal with is what’s on the page, as an actor,” he said.

Farrell said that while he’s sorry if his portrayal might cause additional pain for the surviving Miglins, he doesn’t feel any guilt.

He said it’s “too bad there is such antagonism” over Miglin’s possible motivations.

“To me, it’s a further manifestation of the horror of this whole thing. But part of [that] is a kind of inability or unwillingness to accept what I think is a very real and very natural part of this man’s life, and it’s one that’s really what the show is about — an inability to understand that some people have a different orientation and particularly then, and less now, there was an absolute unwillingness to accept and honor that orientation.”

Revisiting Chicago murder, FX series depicts Lee Miglin as gay, close to killer

Matt Bomer directs “American Crime Story: Versace” episode, featuring Filipino family

Matt Bomer is a devoted family man who’s been raising his three kids with husband Simon Halls. Since coming out in 2012, he has become a role model for many, because of his equal rights advocacy and his versatility as an actor. He has also found his way to the director’s chair and is at the helm of a major TV episode that features several Filipino talents. | 30 January 2018

Gianni Versace’s Partner Slams American Crime Story Portrayal as a ‘Misrepresentation’

Antonio D’Amico, the longtime partner of the late Italian designer Gianni Versace, is not happy with FX’s new series about Versace’s life and death, The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story — and he tells PEOPLE exclusively that the project contains multiple inaccuracies.

“Significant parts of the [series] on Gianni Versace’s murder do not reflect the reality of the events that took place,” says D’Amico, 59. “I feel — together with those who know me well — that my character … is a misrepresentation of myself and what our relationship was like.”

In particular, D’Amico points to a scene early in American Crime Story‘s second season where Versace’s killer, Andrew Cunanan, is depicted meeting him onstage in San Francisco after an earlier encounter at a club. (It’s not quite clear whether the series is endorsing this version of events, which appears to be told from Cunanan’s perspective.)

D’Amico tells PEOPLE the sequence “is pure fantasy as I was with Gianni — together with a number of other people, like the ladies from the San Francisco Opera council — for the entire time he was at the theatre and then we went back to our hotel together.”

“I remember it clearly because it was quite an event,” he continues. “That supposed meeting never took place. At least not on that day and in that setting. Just an aside, Gianni did not drink alcohol — everyone knew that — so even the champagne scene with Cunanan is fictitious.

D’Amico also says that the series gets wrong a few things about his 15-year-plus relationship with Versace.

“Neither Gianni nor I were looking to get married or to have children,” he says. “All we wanted was to live our relationship in the open — as we did. We were more than happy to have the nieces and nephews that we had and were not seeking children of our own.”

D’Amico isn’t the first to speak out about The Assassination of Gianni Versace. Versace’s family has also criticized the show as “reprehensible” and “bogus.”

In response, producer Ryan Murphy told Variety, “We issued a statement saying that this story is based on Maureen Orth’s book [Vulgar Favors],which is a very celebrated, lauded work of non-fiction that was vetted now for close to 20 years. That’s really all I have to say about it, other than of course I feel if your family is ever portrayed in something, it’s natural to sort of have a ‘Well, let’s wait and see what happens’ [stance].”

Speaking specifically about Versace’s sister, Donatella, played by Penélope Cruz in the series, Murphy said: “I don’t know if she is going to watch the show, but if she did I think that she would see that we treat her and her family with respect and kindness.”

Last year, D’Amico spoke to Ricky Martin, who plays him in the series. According to Martin, he reassured D’Amico that he would be satisfied with the portrayal.

A rep for FX did not immediately return a call for comment.

Gianni Versace’s Partner Slams American Crime Story Portrayal as a ‘Misrepresentation’

‘American Crime Story’: FX’s Nina Jacobson And Brad Simpson Talk About The Challenges Of Creating Socially Conscious TV

At times it feels as though Ryan Murphy has an overwhelming number of shows, but there’s something special about American Crime Story. The first season of the anthology series, The People v. O.J. Simpson, swept the world by storm, dominating both critical conversations and achieving stellar ratings. For its second season, The Assassination of Gianni Versace may not be as all-encompassing as the first season of the show. However, there’s a sense of urgency, consciousness, and care about the portrayal of these real-life people baked into the DNA of Versace that makes this season a worthy sequel to the O.J. season of the show.

The creators of American Crime Story know the show’s reputation and strengths and are cautious about capturing the perfect balance of pulpy drama and socially conscious storytelling. As we’re in the middle of the first big show of 2018, Decider had the opportunity to Nina Jacobson and Brad Simpson, executive producers for American Crime Story and FX’s upcoming musical drama Pose. The duo discussed the importance of telling the Versace and Cunanan story, the challenges of Ryan Murphy’s brand of storytelling, what it’s like working with FX, and what’s going on with the Monica Lewinsky and Hurricane Katrina seasons of American Crime Story.

“The first thing that Ryan pulled for was that we shoot in Miami, which is hard to do on a basic cable TV show,” Simpson said when asked about The Assassination of Gianni Versace‘s gorgeous cinematography. To achieve the show’s highly stylized and bright look, the team brought in two directors of photography — Nelson Cragg, who also directed Episode 2 “Manhunt” and worked on the O.J. season, and Simon Dennis, who worked on six episodes of the series.

“There’s a consistency [to the look of the show], but the show is darker and less vivid as we go back in time and see some of the murders. But also Ryan really wanted pink to be a central color of the show,” he said. “It’s important metaphorically because the show is in many ways about being gay, and pink is associated with that, but also we thought it was important because it was a big color in Miami, and it plays throughout the show with very clean lines.”

Simpson also revealed that the team used American Gigolo and the original Miami Vice for inspiration. “We hope that people enjoy the look while also getting more and more unnerved by it,” Simpson said.

The real story of Andrew Cunanan‘s murder spree was fairly sensationalized. However, the team was careful to be sensitive to these victims’ stories and portray them as people first. “The only victim that people really knew anything about was Versace and we wanted — to the best of our abilities — to tell the story of these other lives that were lost and for them to not sort of be lost in the shuffle of the celebrity victim who was the final victim and the one that everybody knew about,” Jacobson said. The team wasn’t able to learn much about William Reese, the victim who was murdered for his truck. However, they were able to expound on the stories of three of Cunanan’s other victims —Lee Miglin, David Madsen, and Jeff Trail.

“They had such complex stories to be told,” she said. “So much of what they experienced, the themes of homophobia and shame, the policies of being out at that time [are relevant], and we actually felt that rather than sensationalizing those murders, we wanted to humanize those victims.”

Though FX’s series largely sticks to its source material, there is a key difference between Maureen Orth’s book Vulgar Favors and The Assassination of Gianni Versace. While Orth outlines police missteps and the media’s response to this case, Versace largely glosses these details. When asked why these elements were excluded, Jacobson pointed to editing.

“A lot of details from the book were in our script and were shot. And then through the editorial process we found that sort of where you wanted to be was you with the people who were the center of the story,” she said. “Part of it was the difficulty that, because it was this national manhunt with different states involved, there wasn’t necessarily one person or one character story that you could tell of somebody who was on the hunt, putting the clues together. So we didn’t feel as though we had as much character drama coming from the police investigation side.”

Just as The People v. O.J. Simpson was just as much about race relations as it was about national scandal, The Assassination of Gianni Versace is equally about these horrific murders as it is about homophobia and what it was like to be gay during this time. The Versace season is one of the best forms of socially conscious television, a brand Murphy has perfected. However, there are challenges that come with creating TV this way.

“I think the central thing is that you can’t start with the issues, you know? We like a good page turner, in terms of our movies, in terms of our TV shows. Ryan understands, and in a weird way he’s sort of been able to cloak shows that actually have a lot of radical change under just really good storytelling,” Simpson said. “I think Glee did a lot of hurrying up the acceptance among millennials and teaching their parents about difference and homosexuality.”

Simpson admitted that when Murphy first presented the Versace story to them, they weren’t very familiar with all of Cunanan’s murders and didn’t fully see the larger meaning. “As we got into it we realized this is a show about what it was like to be gay during this incredibly complicated time in America. People were trying to come out of the closet across the country, and half the people were trying to shove them back into that closet,” he said. “We’re able to tell that story because it’s a really griping story about this really griping thriller. And I think that’s the secret sauce for Ryan and what we’re interested in too. This sort of literary pulp is compulsive, but it has something to say.”

Simpson expects Pose, FX’s 1980s musical that currently has the largest transgender cast ever announced for a scripted series, to have that same balance. “What Ryan’s doing essentially is telling a musical about people’s hopes and dreams. I think that’s the reason an audience is going to connect to it,” he said. “That’s exactly what makes for compelling TV.”

Jacobson also explained how timeliness has effected both seasons of American Crime Story. “So many of the cases of black deaths at the hands of police were unfolding just right when we were writing and producing O.J., so it felt incredibly immediate even though it was a period piece,” she said. “[Versace] too is a period piece, but this was a time when I was coming out.”

“Versace is the first, really the first major designer to come out not because he was visibly ill with AIDs, which the only other out designers were dead. They had come out because they were visibly ill, and that was the final image that people had of them,” Jacobson said. “Ellen wasn’t out yet. Elton John was out, but very few other celebrities were. And certainly I would say I remember few women were out at that time and how few role models there were. You tend to tell stories that you identify with, that speak to you in a way that moves you, and for us this was a story that moved us.”

Speaking of timely stories, when asked if there had been any talks about moving up the Monica Lewinsky season of American Crime Story in the wake of the #MeToo movement, Simpson those conversations have happened, though nothing is official yet.

“I think we’re kind of glad that we didn’t do Monica right after O.J. I think that this conversation [in Hollywood about sexual misconduct] will inform how we do it. I think that it will inform our perspective on it in a way that’s probably good and cause us to explore issues of consent and what it means to be in a relationship with a powerful man and a younger woman that maybe wouldn’t have been as nuanced before this conversation,” he said. “We might have focused more on the politics. But all of these [shows], we handcraft them … the reason we haven’t been rushing things on the air and pressed pause on Katrina is because we want them all to have resonance.”

As for Katrina, the Five Days at Memorial season is still happening, but there are no official developments yet. “We have a writer working on it,” Simpson said. “We decided to stop announcing when we’ll in production on things because we’ll be in production when the scripts come in, right? We’re hopeful that this new approach is going to be the right one.”

For FX’s part, from Donald Glover to Noah Hawley, the network has been outspoken about allowing its creators to take their time when it comes to producing quality seasons of new shows. “We put a lot of work into a few things, and they’re appreciative of that. They only make pilots that they think they want to program, and they’re not throwing things against the wall,” Simpson said. “I think it’s the smartest group of people working in TV. And it’s been great because our first couple of seasons of working on TV and working with Ryan, who’s also been a great mentor to us, has also coincided with John Landgraf’s team really getting recognized for what they do. As we watch shows like The Americans and Atlanta get noticed along with our shows, we feel like we’re in great company.”

As for FX’s future, the executive producers seemed optimistic about that as well. When asked how she thought Disney’s acquisition of Fox might effect FX, Jacobson said her former employer likely bought Fox because of its content. “It’s been a long time since I’ve worked there, and a lot has changed since I’ve worked there,” she said. “The offerings, I think, from Fox and FX are quite different, and I would assume that … they want those differences in terms of launching Hulu as a major competitor to Netflix and Amazon. But I have to assume they bought Fox because they see the talent that’s there and the library of great shows, and they want some of the differentiation.”

‘American Crime Story’: FX’s Nina Jacobson And Brad Simpson Talk About The Challenges Of Creating Socially Conscious TV

Costume Designer Lou Eyrich Outfits Iconic Designer in Style for The Assassination of Gianni Versace – The Credits

Costume designer Lou Eyrich‘s handiwork dominates the opening of Ryan Murphy’s new series The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story (Wednesdays on FX) when the titular fashion designer begins his last day on earth swaddled in the lap of luxury. Versace (Edgar Ramirez), in silk pajamas, dresses for breakfast by slipping on a pink robe and, of course, Versace-branded slippers. Without a word of dialogue, Eyrich and creator-producer-director-writer Ryan Murphy establish Versace’s luxurious life in Miami shortly before he’s murdered by Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss). “Making the robe pink was Ryan’s idea because he wanted to show the color and vibrancy of Miami,” she says. “The pajamas and robe were silk because we wanted something opulent that would flow through the hallways as Versace walked down the steps to the pool.”

Ryan Murphy’s name comes up a lot when Eyrich discusses The Assassinationin particular and her career in general. A three-time Emmy winner for her contributions to Murphy’s American Horror Story franchise, Eyrich started collaborating with the TV auteur in 1999, employed as assistant costume designer on his first series Popular. She says, “In our first production meeting, Ryan went through the script rattling off everything he wanted. ‘He has to wear a blue fur coat, he’s got to have that.’ He was so specific about every prop, the costumes, the locations. I remember leaning over to the costume designer and whispering ‘I don’t know who this guy is but he’s going to be big time.‘”

In previous Murphy-created shows, Eyrich channeled 1960s Hollywood (Feud: Bette and Joan) and Pilgrim garb circa 1590 (AHS: Roanoke). By comparison The Assassination of Gianni Versace, set in 1997, offered a fairly straight forward curatorial challenge. She says, “We spent days on end ordering online as much Versace as we could get our hands on. There’s a lot of Versace collectors out there, so we managed to put a lot of authentic pieces into the show. Edgar was really eager to assimilate Versace’s posture and movement so it all came together quite nicely.”

Penelope Cruz plays the designer’s strong-willed sister Donatella. The Spanish actress is friends with Ms. Versace and had her own ideas about dressing “Donatella,” beginning with her grand entrance in black leather pants and jacket. “A lot of the story takes place after Gianni gets killed so she there’s a lot of black,” Eyrich says. “But even though Donatella’s grieving, we wanted to show her strong side, that she’s a powerful business woman who’s being asked to take over the family business.”

Cruz as Donatella cuts a dramatic figure onscreen, inspired by imagery Eyrich studied during her pre-production research. She says “Donatella was always very well put together – – jewelry, shoes, purses, everything was very couture. And a big part of Donatella’s look had to do with corseted waists. It was also important also to show leg, because she has great legs. We wanted to emulate that silhouette without blatantly copying the clothes.”

In contrast to “Donatella”‘s sleek ensembles, Cunanan’ grubby clothes reflect his homeless status by the time the serial killer arrived in Miami. “He was basically living out of his backpack,” says Eyrich, who scoured thrift stores for well-worn tee shirts from the period. During flashback to 1990, Criss as Cunanan favors suits that hang loosely on his wire frame. “Today, everybody goes with the tailored suit and the narrow leg but suits in the eighties and nineties were a bit over-sized in the shoulders and baggy in the leg. So when you look back at the nineties, the suits do look too big.”

On a break from costume-designing Murpy’s upcoming ’80s-era show Pose, Eyrich notes that before teaming up with the television mogul, she’d work with another detail-obsessed perfectionist: Prince. A Minnesota native, Eyrich spent two years on the road serving as costumer to the musical genius/fashion plate. “I ironed the clothes and dressed Prince backstage,” Eyrich says. “He was always very precise: ‘I want that leopard top with those black pants and this shoe. Put two stripes there. Add those buttons over here.’ I hadn’t really thought of it before but Prince knew everything that was going on around him and so does Ryan Murphy. No matter how many balls they have up in the air, with both of them, it’s like eyes in the back of the head.”

Costume Designer Lou Eyrich Outfits Iconic Designer in Style for The Assassination of Gianni Versace – The Credits

‘American Crime Story’ Costume Designer on Recreating Versace

Making clothes for a show about late designer Gianni Versace without the help of Versace isn’t easy. The Assassination of Gianni Versace co-costume designers Allison Leach and Lou Eyrich had nearly five weeks to assemble a wardrobe of vintage Versace pieces, sourced from Ebay stores and Etsy sellers, not to mention high-end consignment shops. They also made industry contacts through A Current Affair, a Los Angeles showcase with more than 150 vintage retailers. What they couldn’t find, they recreated, including every single look from Versace’s famous 1997 Haute Couture show in Paris, which would ultimately serve as the designer’s final turn on the runway.

The aforementioned show takes place in the second episode, in which a Naomi Campbell lookalike closes out the presentation as a “Versace bride.” In order to recreate all 17 of the shimmery mesh gowns with rhinestone embellishments, Leach and her team painstakingly researched the different types of crystal mesh, metal mesh, and silk jersey fabrics that comprised the real-life designs. To accommodate a TV schedule with a swift turnaround, Leach says they devoted one day per dress for the show.

“Our tailor, Joanne Mills, hadn’t worked with those before so assembling crystal mesh and metal mesh dresses was almost like jewelry assembly,” Leach tells CR. “There was some faux leather and beadwork and the team did a lot of the intricate rhine-stoning work on the signature crosses.”

In our first glimpse of the late designer, played by Édgar Ramírez, Versace dons a flowing silk robe that seems to flit and flutter behind him as he maneuvers around his decadent Miami Beach mansion on the morning he is murdered by Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss). Producer Ryan Murphy imparted his own vision for the scene and specifically asked the costume department to create a pink robe.

“Ryan had this pink robe in his mind’s eye because he specifically asked for a beautiful pink robe for the opening sequence,” Leach says. “We built that from scratch from silk and it was all machine-quilted with the Greek key embroidery on the lapels. For the outfit that Versace was shot in, we recreated that from the research but we added a tone-on-tone black Medusa embroidery on the center front of the t-shirt because Ryan wanted to have as much Medusa present as possible.”

Sifting through Versace’s collections, overflowing with bright pop art dresses and Grecian details, it’s clear why the designer made such a huge mark on fashion during the 1990s. The Medusa logo itself, most notably associated with the brand, is ever-present in the show, from adorning the sides of Versace’s shoes to the gates of the mansion of which Versace is gunned down in front. “It was so important to Gianni and it came from his childhood in Calabria—this Medusa head that he incorporated into his very first store and it’s the iconography of the brand—so we tried to get the Medusa in as much as we could,” Leach says.

Many of the costumes themselves were a combination of real and recreated Versace pieces. The printed Barocco shirts that Ramírez wore, for instance, were all Versace originals. As for costuming Penelope Cruz, who plays Gianni’s sister Donatella, accuracy was most important. Although the Versace family has released statements calling the series a “work of fiction,” Cruz reportedly obtained permission from Donatella herself for the on-screen portrayal.

Donatella’s 1996 Met Gala attire, the black-and-gold studded dress from Versace’s Bondage Collection, was Leach’s favorite costume to design. “It’s such an iconic dress to get to explore and find how it was made, from the materials, the lamb, the drapery of the skirt, and then the intricate buckle work on the bodice,” she says. “We had to recreate the hardware as well with custom-made buckles. Joann Mills built with such talent and skill and I think when you see the picture side-by-side with Penelope and Donatella, it’s a pretty magical transformation.”

For a hot pink evening gown that Donatella wore (which was eventually cut from the series), Leach used real Versace safety pins and their original placement on the dress. The wardrobe for Donatella also included Versace belts and boots, resplendent with intricate Western hardware and safety pin details, but the designer’s affinity for wearing body-conscious Azzedine Alaïa garments was also taken into account.

“Penelope was aware that Donatella wore Versace but also Alaïa so we were always keen to find those pieces and we would all be so excited when we found something that was so right on the money, that was so Donatella,” Leach says. “She wears a couple of different Alaïa leather jackets and some Alaïa boots as well.”

From the moment Donatella steps foot off of the plane from Europe to Miami, after just hearing the tragic news that her brother had been murdered, the grief-stricken sister in mourning wears only all-black outfits. The only moments in which we’re able to peer back at the lively and daring Donatella, the one who inspired so many of Versace’s colorful creations, is through flashbacks.

“It’s hard because our story is so much about the moments after the death, so we couldn’t do gold or some of the brighter colors that Donatella wore,” Leach says. “In some of the flashbacks to times before his death, we were able to use bolder colors and more stud-work and opulent choices but after the death, we had to keep it respectful and somber because of the character’s emotional journey.”

As the viewer follows along with Cunanan’s cross-country murder spree and his web of telling tall tales, charting all the way back to his childhood, it was imperative to Leach and her team that the time period and location informed the costuming. Major themes including the ongoing struggle for LGBT rights and the AIDS epidemic, which encapsulated the late ‘80s and ’90s, served as the undercurrent for the series. Miami Beach and Versace’s mansion functioned as characters in their own right, and everyone from the leads to the extras were outfitted in bright colors and whites to stay true to the era.

“We definitely wanted to get that hot Miami color palette,” Leach says. “We paid special attention to the fit of the clothes because the ’90s were worn so oversized and we made sure the t-shirts and dress shirts were off-the-shoulder and had to research the correct width of the tie, the drop of the lapel, and the fit of the pants. A lot them were higher waisted and looser in the leg and down to the every last background person, we really tried to achieve the period feel.”

In poring over numerous Versace collections and sourcing original pieces for the show, Leach developed a greater appreciation for the late designer and what a loss his death meant to the fashion world and beyond. Cementing himself as a cultural icon, Versace ushered in a new age in fashion in which opulence and maximalism were celebrated and was the first designer to tap into the publicity machine by filling his front rows with celebrities. Leach says that through his otherworldly creations, and his incorporation of American, Italian, Grecian, and Western details, Versace was able to reach international prominence and inspire scores of young designers.

“Going into this project, I liked Versace and now I have even more respect for what he meant to fashion and that word audacity comes to mind,” Leach says. “You can see why it appeals to people across the globe because of its audaciousness and because everybody knows that’s Versace. It’s not like other brands where you might not guess what it is—it’s just elegant. There’s something to be said for something that’s so recognizably Versace that I think appeals to a certain wearer.”

‘American Crime Story’ Costume Designer on Recreating Versace