Wednesday’s best TV: The Assassination of Gianni Versace; Save Me

The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story
9pm, BBC Two

The follow-up to The People v OJ Simpson charts the story behind the 1997 murder of the fashion designer outside his Florida home. Darren Criss excels as Andrew Cunanan, a fantasist serial killer who, in this reading, calls to mind Patricia Highsmith’s Tom Ripley. Penélope Cruz and Ricky Martin add star power. Jonathan Wright

Wednesday’s best TV: The Assassination of Gianni Versace; Save Me

As Queer Eye gets a reboot, television enjoys a wealth of gay perspectives

Last November, Glaad released the results of its annual inquiry into LGBTQ representation on TV, finding that the number of queer characters increased to all-time highs across broadcast, cable and streaming series. On broadcast television, there are now 86 regular or recurring characters identifying as gay, straight, lesbian, bisexual or transexual, a lowly but ascendant 6.4%; on cable, there are 173, and on streaming services, 70. Predictably, these characters remain overwhelmingly male, white, and cis-gendered. While the study didn’t account for series premiering in 2018 or currently in development, many of them should make the breakdown of queer representation more equitable across racial and ethnic lines.

The year started with Ryan Murphy’s The Assassination of Gianni Versace, the second installment of his American Crime Story anthology series. We justifiably expected the show to focus on its titular couturier but it ended up doing something different and more interesting, charting a vast spectrum of queer experiences in the post-Aids 90s through the lens of Andrew Cunanan, Versace’s admirer-cum-assassin and the killer of four other men, three of whom were gay. In a series of bottle episodes the show zeroes in on the military’s Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell policy and Versace’s own public coming-out in a way that seems novel and historically sound.

As Queer Eye gets a reboot, television enjoys a wealth of gay perspectives

Just another pretty face: should Hollywood stop giving bad guys a face-lift?

One of Hollywood’s most time-honored traditions is praising actors in recognition of the physical transformation required for certain roles. The awards come flooding in, as do vague references to Stanislavski’s method, and the clickbaity headlines set the internet ablaze: Matthew McConaughey packs on 40lb for his turn as a gold-miner! Christian Bale ate a single can of tuna a day for The Machinist! Cameron Diaz uglies up in Being John Malkovich!

Watching the spectacle of celebrity mutation excites us both as gossip-mongers and moviegoers, since we appreciate dedication to craft as much as we do a grainy on-set photo of Matthew McConaughey cradling his pot-belly like a stray dog he’s just encountered.

But just as often as these good-looking people make themselves less so in the name of art, actors are cast as substantially less attractive real-life people and don’t undergo the same bodily metamorphosis. CGI, hair and makeup go a long way, but for every Charlize Theron-as-Aileen Wuornos or Robert De Niro-as-Jake LaMotta, there are times where we’re asked to accept a character as “ugly” because their hair is frizzy or their teeth imperfect. But let’s face it: sometimes, by no fault of their own, actors are simply too attractive for the role.

This came to mind when the former Disney Channel star Ross Lynch playedJeffrey Dahmer last year, and when Zac Efron was cast as Ted Bundy in an upcoming biopic, and when Margot Robbie channeled Tonya Harding, and, most recently, as Taylor Kitsch and Darren Criss appear, respectively, in the new seriesWaco as Branch Davidian cult leader David Koresh, and as serial killer Andrew Cunanan in The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story.

In Waco, Kitsch tries to expunge himself of Friday Night Lights heartthrob Tim Riggins to play Koresh, pseudo-prophet, alleged sexual abuser, and leader of the Branch Davidian religious movement. Kitsch plays the part formidably, but you can’t help but wonder how Waco would look if the camera weren’t so enamored by its lead, who broods and smizes so frequently it’s as if he’s been conditioned to play up his looks. Then you remember it’s Kitsch, and he probably has been.

Although he shares something of a resemblance to Andrew Cunanan, Darren Criss’s performance in Versace is similarly gratuitous in the way only an excessively handsome person could make it, and the end result is a particularly doe-eyed brand of menace. I’ll hold off on any pre-emptive judgment of Efron’s turn in the new Joe Berlinger-directed Bundy biopic, but I’m not optimistic about that one, either.

Hollywood is of course a business, one that’s in the business of prettification; often, our enjoyment of its product is incumbent on our suspension of disbelief. But that becomes more difficult with biopics, particularly those concerning subjects of ill repute. When serial killers and cult leaders and disgraced figure skaters are made more attractive – read: packaged for box office consumption – than they really were, is something lost in the process? Are the films forcing upon us a redemptive arc that hasn’t been earned?

First, let’s look at the scholarship: there are, to put it mildly, competing schools of thought among academics about the conflation of beauty with evil. In a 1998 essay, the philosopher Mary Devereaux looked at the case of Leni Reifenstahl’s 1935 film Triumph of the Will, regarded by most cineastes as one of the most important, visually engrossing films ever made and, also, a heinous lionization of Adolf Hitler and the Nuremberg rallies (pardon the obeisance to Godwin’s Law).

Devereaux argued that the film’s valuable insofar as it makes you question the Platonic notion that beauty and moral goodness proceed from one another.

“Indeed, one of the most shocking things about Triumph of the Will is that it so clearly demonstrates that beauty and goodness can come apart,” she wrote, “not just in the relatively simple sense that moral and aesthetic evaluation may diverge, but in the more frightening sense that it is possible for art to render evil beautiful.” Some scholars are purists, and others still feel that the moral can’t be divorced from the aesthetic, and that the gussying up of reprehensible people amounts to a reappraisal, a muddying of the ethical waters.

Triumph of the Will is of course a loftier, more high-stakes case study than the ones at hand; Hollywood has so far stopped short of casting a preternatural beauty to play Hitler. But there’s something to be said about the industry’s insistence on endearing us to crummy people by making them sexy. If it’s not manipulative and cynical, it is disingenuous; these casting decisions are oriented around bankability, not believability.

In the best-case scenario, the performance, like Robbie’s in I, Tonya, is still gutsy and commendable, even as the film itself lazily deploys scrunchy hairbands and braces to sell its version of Harding (her ex-husband Jeff Gillooly also gets a not-insignificant sprucing up at the hands of the uber-handsome Sebastian Stan). At worst, they result in tone-deaf marketing, like how Jennifer Aniston, in Cake, was meant to be “ugly”.

“This isn’t about culling conventionally attractive people from your TV screens,” wrote Lindy West in a Jezebel piece called Why We Need More Ugly People on TV. “It’s not about telling you who you ‘can’ and ‘can’t’ find attractive. It’s about decoupling women’s value from their desirability, and embracing the idea that people are more complicated than that.”

Maybe this is why, when we talk about the lengths actors go for roles, the reverse facelifts they execute in the name of authenticity, we so readily wax poetic about their commitment and artistic zeal. Because, most of the time, studios are actually quite lazy in this regard. It’s a point of fact that when we watch a movie or television show the actors therein are considerably better-looking than us laymen. But Ted Bundy was no centerfold, and it seems just a bit unscrupulous to reimagine him as one.

Just another pretty face: should Hollywood stop giving bad guys a face-lift?

Fashion, unfiltered: how 2017 became the year of Versace

Perhaps the biggest challenge is dealing with the fictionalised interpretation of Donatella, which has taken on a life of its own: this version appears as a recurring character on Saturday Night Live, played by Maya Rudolph; it is also embodied by Gina Gershon in the outrageous TV movie House of Versace, in which “Donatella” stashes cocaine in a mascara tube. In January, Ryan Murphy’s American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace will be shown on the BBC. The trailer is violent and flashy and seems to suggest that Gianni knew his murderer – the serial killer Andrew Cunanan – which has never been confirmed. Penélope Cruz, who has often worn Versace, plays Donatella; she has said that she spoke “a little bit” with the designer while preparing. “I needed that conversation,” she said. “I really hope that, when she sees the show, she’s going to be happy.” When I ask Donatella about it today, though, she doesn’t seem happy. “I don’t discuss fiction,” she says. So it is a fiction to you? “It is fiction,” she says, her eyes widening for emphasis.

Fashion, unfiltered: how 2017 became the year of Versace

‘My life was torn in two when Gianni was shot’ – Versace’s lover breaks silence

Since Italian fashion designer Gianni Versace was shot dead outside his Miami Beach home in 1997, his murder has been pored over in countless articles, books and films. Now the shooting will be examined on television next year in the award-winning American Crime Story.

Amid the speculation, Antonio D’Amico, Versace’s boyfriend of 15 years and the person who found him sprawled on the steps of the mansion, has remained remarkably taciturn. But the forthcoming series, in which he will be played by singer and actor Ricky Martin, has spurred D’Amico to speak his mind.

“There has been so much written and said about the murder, and thousands of suppositions, but not a trace of reality,” D’Amico told the Observer.

The 58-year-old has not been consulted for the series, which will be entitled American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace, and said the images he has seen online of how he reacted are incorrect.

“The picture of Ricky Martin holding the body in his arms is ridiculous,” he said, adding that it was like looking at a mimic of Michelangelo’s Pietà, which depicts the body of Jesus in the arms of his mother after the crucifixion. “Maybe it’s the director’s poetic licence, but that is not how I reacted.”

D’Amico says the tragedy of his lover’s murder on 15 July 1997 tipped him into a deep and long depression. Even now he will only briefly discuss it. Versace, who was 50 when he died, was killed shortly before 9am as he returned to his Ocean Drive home after buying a newspaper at a nearby cafe. D’Amico was drinking coffee on the veranda close to the mansion’s entrance when he heard the shots.

“I felt as if my blood had turned to ice,” he said. He and Versace’s butler went outside to investigate.

“The house had stained glass windows so we couldn’t see what had happened from inside, so we had to open the gate. I saw Gianni lying on the steps, with blood around him. At that point, everything went dark. I was pulled away, I didn’t see any more.”

Just days before, Versace had celebrated the successful launch of a collection at a show in Paris. He was shot by Andrew Cunanan, a 27-year-old gay man who had murdered at least four other people in a three-month killing spree before turning up at the fashion designer’s home. After a huge manhunt, the body of Cunanan was found eight days later in a Miami houseboat. He had apparently shot himself with the same gun that killed Versace.

Twenty years on, it is not known whether the murder was planned or carried out at random, leading to much gossip and speculation, including a rumour that Versace may have been murdered by the mafia due to debts he owed to the criminal organisation. There was also speculation that Versace may have met his killer years earlier.

D’Amico insists: “They never knew each other … so much has been fictionalised. Unfortunately Gianni died, unfortunately this guy killed him, unfortunately it happened: but now, let it drop.”

The murder tore D’Amico’s world apart. He went from partying with the likes of Elton John and Sting to shutting himself away in solitude. Meanwhile, tensions with the Versace family, in particular Gianni’s sister Donatella, put paid to him receiving what was left to him in the will – a monthly pension for life of about €26,000 and the right to live in Versace’s homes.

As the properties belonged to the Versace fashion house they came under the control of Donatella (to be played by Penélope Cruz) and older sibling Santo, as well as Gianni’s niece Allegra. D’Amico, who had been a designer at Versace Sport, received just a fraction of the pension and walked away from fighting for the rest. He then slipped into a depression lasting several years.

“I had never been through a depression and never saw a therapist as I was advised to: why did I need to tell someone else what had happened when I knew I was this way because Gianni’s death had torn me in two? I was in a nightmare, I felt nothing and gave no importance to anything … the house, the money … because it felt false to have expectations of life.”

In an interview last June, Martin, who came out as gay in 2010, spoke about a scene in the television show in which Gianni, played by Edgar Ramirez, is walking along the beach with Antonio when he suddenly becomes weak. His boyfriend touches him and Gianni responds: “Don’t touch me! The paparazzi!”

But Versace never tried to hide his sexuality, D’Amico said, and was one of the first people in the public eye to declare being gay in the late 1980s.

“We lived like a natural couple, there was never a problem,” he said. “It was the right moment for him to come out in public, but everyone involved in our world knew. He never tried to hide who he was.”

D’Amico doesn’t plan to watch American Crime Story but said he’d be happy if Martin got in contact to get some insight into his relationship with Versace. “It’s getting to know the small things about a relationship … for example, Gianni was so ordered and focused at work but in his private life everything was disorganised. He’d leave the bathroom in a mess. At a certain point I said ‘enough’! And when it came to cooking, he didn’t even know how to [boil] an egg.”

D’Amico eventually emerged from his depression after deciding it was a question of either starting to live again or stopping completely. He found love again in 2005, and now lives a simple life with his partner in the northern Italian countryside. He has also relaunched himself as a designer, recently bringing out a collection of sportswear for the golf sector.

“Sincerely, after two decades, I will always be connected to Gianni as a person I loved for more than 15 years,” D’Amico said.

“But today, I am a different person … the world continues to go around … You can look back at the past until a certain point, [but] then you need to look ahead to the future.”

‘My life was torn in two when Gianni was shot’ – Versace’s lover breaks silence