The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, episode 8, review – a killer resolution is all this series needs

★★★☆☆

It all comes down to the sins of the father. That’s what the penultimate episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story (BBC Two) seemed to suggest regarding Versace’s killer, Andrew Cunanan.

The series started with Cunanan (Darren Criss) gunning down the designer on the steps of his Miami mansion in 1997. Over eight stately but gruesome episodes we tracked back through Cunanan’s life (and to a lesser extent Versace’s) and the string of earlier murders he committed. To the point where, this week, we finally arrived at the origin story.

We met Gianni (as a boy in 1957, encouraged by his dressmaker mother to be a designer even if that meant being called “pervert” by his teacher and “pansy” by his six-year-old classmates. (The dialogue had all the subtlety of one of Cunanan’s speciality hammer blows to the head.) But attention soon turned back to the killer and how he, too, had been an intelligent child with an effeminate streak; the spoilt favourite not of a saintly Italian mamma but of an obsessive Filipino immigrant father – Modesto “Pete” Cunanan (Jon Jon Briones) – who made the mistake of believing he could make it in America and got pulped.

As critiques of the American dream go, Modesto’s story – for all its flag worship and materialism – was not the most convincing. Because this particular member of the huddled masses was also a wife-beating delusional fraudster who robbed grannies of their life savings to send Andrew to a top-flight school. And who may, as one scene suggested briefly before fading to black, have sexually abused him.

In the climactic scene Andrew confronted Modesto, who had fled to Manilla to evade the FBI, only to be spat on and humiliated for being a “sissy” by the father who’d always purported to adore him. Well, it’s no wonder Andrew became a serial killer, appeared to be suggestion. But, as we know, plenty of people have been through a lot worse than that and avoided taking up killing as a hobby.

With just one more episode to go there’s still no knowing whether this American Crime Story will yet pull a dramatically satisfying resolution out of the bag. Let’s hope it won’t leave us feeling all we’ve done is spend too many hours in the company of a vicious multiple-murderer whose motives will never be fully pinned down.

The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, episode 8, review – a killer resolution is all this series needs

The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, episode 7, review – all blinged up with nowhere to go

★★★☆☆

I believe that for a woman, a dress is a weapon to get what she wants.” So declared Donatella Versace with a power-pout and a toss of her peroxide mane. Sadly, it wasn’t sartorial weapons she needed.  

Last night, we reached the seventh episode of the high-camp docudrama The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story (BBC Two), which continues to chart the events that led to the 1997 shooting of Italian designer Gianni Versace (Édgar Ramírez) on the doorstep of his Miami mansion.

In 1992, Versace was diagnosed with a rare form of ear cancer, forcing younger sister Donatella (Penélope Cruz) to take the fashion house’s reins. Almost literally so – a leather-strapped bondage dress became the siblings’ first collaboration. Meanwhile in San Diego, delusional sociopath and budding serial killer Andrew Cunanan (creepy Darren Criss, who, along with Cruz, is the star of this show) conned his way into a lavish new life by targeting wealthy older men.

The first of his targets, architect Lincoln Aston (Todd Waring), ended up savagely beaten to death – a shock scene of gore amid the gloss. The second, silver fox businessman Norman Blachford (Michael Nouri), allowed Cunanan to move into his minimalist mansion. “Oh, if only they could see me now,” murmured Cunanan, taking in the ocean view from a vast glass balcony. “Who?” asked Blachford. “Everyone,” came Cunanan’s chilling reply.  

Written by British export Tom Rob Smith, this was a souped-up soap opera, dripping in gaudy bling and unfolding in designer beige interiors. All gilt mirrors, baroque chairs and creamy soft furnishings, it’s styled like a luxury hotel lobby and rollicks along like an afternoon true-crime movie, albeit a well-appointed one. You half-expect Columbo, Murder She Wrote’s Jessica Fletcher or Hart to Hart’s millionaire spouses to turn up and solve the impending murder.

There are two episodes of the nine-part series still to come, but thus far a convoluted flashback structure has prevented it from hitting the heights of its predecessor, The People vs OJ Simpson. While the time-hopping approach might fill in the background and motivation, it hardly adds much in the way of forward momentum. The hypnotic horror we saw earlier in the series – episodes three to five were masterful, the next two less so – has given way to middling drama. As a guilty pleasure, though, it’s grim, fascinating and just gripping enough.

The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, episode 7, review – all blinged up with nowhere to go

What’s on TV tonight: The City & the City, Sounds Like Friday Night and Have I Got News for You

The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story

BBC Two, 9.00pm

It’s been fascinating to discover the “true” story behind the 1997 murder of fhion designer Gianni Versace in Ryan Murphy’s glitzy drama, which has expertly depicted the inner world of the perpetrator, a Walter Mitty-style serial killer called Andrew Cunanan (a career-defining role for Darren Criss).

This episode, however, has a mid-series lull about it as Cunanan ascends to the higher echelons of gay society, shaping himself meticulously into the posh, preppy eye-candy who saw a sugar daddy (or two) as his way to the top. Elsewhere, the Versace siblings return at last. Gianni (Edgar Ramirez), now in failing health decides to champion his insecure sister Donatella (Penélope Cruz in a frightful wig) and turns her into both designer and muse.

Despite a lack of characters to root for – the Versaces’ moments of vulnerability dissolve into tedious histrionics and are eclipsed by Cunanan’s cold-blooded machinations – it’s all quite a fabulous mix of fashion, high society and brutal murder, with some interesting commentary on homophobia in the Nineties as well. Vicki Power

What’s on TV tonight: The City & the City, Sounds Like Friday Night and Have I Got News for You

Penelope Cruz as Donatella Versace: the anatomy of a style icon

The character of Donatella Versace makes her entrance – and it is an entrance – near the end of the first episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace. Clad in her signature spray-on jeans, black roll-neck and double-breasted suit jacket, she is impossibly glamorous, even while grieving.

With Penelope Cruz playing Donatella in Ryan Murphy’s take on the Versace assassination, a follow-up to 2016’s The People v OJ Simpson, the show offers a potted retrospective of the iconic style of the Italian house, and the personal style of the woman at its helm. Cruz’s transformation into Donatella is uncanny – he has the original’s platinum-blonde hair, permanent tan, full lips and dark, smokey eyes – and a wardrobe of classic, covetable vintage Versace (or replica-Versace) pieces.

For a woman who once said, ‘You can be too boring, but you can never be too seductive’, seduction and glamour are in her DNA. Day-to-day looks remain true to the tried-and-tested formula reflected in Cruz’s opening appearance: tight black trousers – which Donatella declares to be ‘essential’ for every woman in her US Vogue 73 questions interview – black boots, a tailored jacket, or shirt, accessorised with an endlessly rotating collection of gold jewellery.

In September last year, two decades after Gianni Versace was murdered on the steps of his Miami Beach mansion,  Donatella, creative director of the Versace label since the designer’s death,turned her spring-summer 2018 show into a tribute to her late brother.

With five of the original supermodels returning to walk the runway in honour of the late designer, the show has already gone down in fashion history. At the centre of the five was the instantly recognisable figure of Ms Versace, dressed in her go-to daytime black with gold accents. Her own style has become as iconic as the gold chainmail sheaths worn by Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Claudia and Helena.

Though the Versace aesthetic has evolved, perhaps matured, during Donatella’s tenure, a flick back through 30+ years of her own looks demonstrate that, save a gradual exaggeration of her physical appearance – slimmer, more platinum, smokier eyes – her personal style has remained virtually unchanged. And, as Donatella, Cruz’s on-screen wardrobe is expertly judged. Daytime wear varies between minimal, streamlined silhouettes and sharply cut tailoring. For evening, she showcases a rotation of sheath dresses. The palette is minimal – mainly black, with a flash of red, metallic, and the occasional Versace print, always accessorised with her signature gold jewellery.

The first three episodes have shown a grieving, business-like Donatella, though future episodes will reveal flashbacks to high-glamour appearances – a particular highlight promises to be the Belt dress worn for Vogue’s 100th anniversary party. For the red carpet, she ups the ante in ultra-slim fit (she is a fan of Alaia’s bodycon designs alongside her own label), corset-cinched waist, sculpted bust, floor-length silhouettes. Sequins/beads/feathers/rhinestones deliver maximum glamour. The Donatella version of her brother’s all-out glamour that plays out on the runway and in the Versace collections, is somehow more feminine – a modern evolution on the 1980s campaigns where supermodels draped themselves over mahogany muscle men. The same can be said of her own style.

In December, Donatella was awarded the Fashion Icon award at the Fashion Awards. She accepted her prize in a gown that seemed to fuse her own style with the aesthetic of the label she has led for the last 20 years. Nipped at the waist, sculpting and cinching of the torso and bust, sleeveless, floor-length, slashed to the thigh, the silhouette was pure Donatella. The all-over print – an instantly-recognisable motif from the Versace archive – perhaps, a tribute to her late brother?

Penelope Cruz as Donatella Versace: the anatomy of a style icon

What’s on TV tonight: Performance Live, Troy: Fall of a City and more

The Assassination of Gianni Versarce: American Crime Story

BBC Two, 9.00pm

The more time we spend with serial fantasist and murderer Andrew Cunanan, the more Darren Criss, who plays him, walks off with the series. Tonight sees Cunanan very much to the fore as we head back to April 1997 to examine how his murderous spree began. SH

What’s on TV tonight: Performance Live, Troy: Fall of a City and more

The Assassination of Gianni Versace, episode 3, review – a deft parable of sunlight and darkness

★★★★☆

In The Assassination of Gianni Versace (BBC Two), scriptwriter Tom Rob Smith has set himself quite a task to keep up interest in a story short of redemptive good cheer. The first episodewent off like a glorious gaudy firework. The second delved into the less riveting anxieties of the Versace siblings. Seven more episodes of Gianni and Donatella squabbling might be quite a trial. So in this cheerless parable of sunlight and darkness, a lot rests on the shoulders of the itinerant psychopath Andrew Cunanan, played by the extraordinary Darren Criss.

Last time around we watched him in action as a creepy S&M escort whose specialism was suffocating closeted elderly clients with duct-tape. (Don’t shoot the messenger: I merely report the facts.) The third episode took a holiday from the Versaces to deliver to a well-shaped, self-contained episode from Cunanan’s serial-killing back story. In the words of Blue Peter, it was a case of “here’s a murder I did earlier. Two, in fact.”

The victim was Lee Miglin, a real estate tycoon prone to furtive gay encounters but still devoted to his wife Marilyn, a shopping-network perfume saleswoman. Deftly portrayed by guest actors Mike Farrell and Judith Light, theirs was a lavender marriage based on loving friendship and rigid denial. The denial continued for the unshocked wife even after her husband’s body was found taped and stabbed in the garage. The murder, she ferociously insisted, must be reported as a random robbery gone wrong.

This was a story about appearances. While Marilyn was fixated on keeping up hers (and her dead husband’s), Cunanan was all for exposing ugly realities under polished surfaces. Miglin was ruthlessly taunted for romanticising their sexual transaction. Then his killer ripped off his mask and announced his true identity: “Here I am,” he boasted. “This is me.”

Watching Cunanan enact rituals of sexual humiliation is not a pleasant experience. Later, he also chucked in another more pragmatic, cold-blooded execution on the run. As Cunanan, Darren Criss is horribly convincing, though I’m starting to doubt if he can convince me to spend six more episodes in his company. There are still two more murders to sit through. Come back, Gianni and Donatella. All is forgiven.

The Assassination of Gianni Versace, episode 3, review – a deft parable of sunlight and darkness

The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, episode 1 review: a gossipy, killer slice of docudrama

An aura of decadent fabulousness lingers over The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story. The tragic fashion designer is introduced gliding about in a blinding pink dressing gown in his Versailles-like Miami palace – a riot of stucco and sunshine over which director and show-runner Ryan Murphy overlays sonorous opera.

As if inspired by one of Versace’s swirling creations, Murphy wastes no time ratcheting up the overkill to a clanging crescendo in FX’s true crime follow up to 2016’s The People Vs. OJ Simpson.

Gunned down on his doorstep by the psychotic fabulist Andrew Cunanan (Glee’s Darren Criss), Gianni Versace bleeds to death alongside a bloodied dove similarly, if inexplicably, pierced by a bullet.

Storming on three quarters of the way in as Donatella Versace – Gianni’s beloved sister and heir –  Penélope Cruz adds to the excess with a performance as filthily ridiculous as her dirty blonde wig.  The most delicious aspect of the series, however, is its element of surprise.

Versace (Édgar Ramírez – whose performance is, weirdly, the most sober here) was a global fashion figure when cut down in July 1997 yet the details of his killing are not widely known.

That’s in contrast to the OJ Simpson case, so embedded in our memories that watching Murphy recreate the events two years ago felt like participating in a game of true crime bingo. The Ford Bronco chase, the misogynistic humbling of Marcia Clark, Johnnie Cochran’s “if glove don’t fit” speech – all were dutifully trotted out, each beat as predictable as the chorus in a Justin Bieber song.

Season two, by contrast, packs a gilded punch. The first episode bounces between the slaying of Versace to his first encounter, in a San Fransisco gay club, with Cunanan. The future killer is a Walter Mitty-like social climber whose life is wallpapered with so many habitual lies it’s unclear whether even he knows truth from fiction. Preppy of manner and soulless of gaze, he gives Murphy something the Simpson case lacked – an unambiguous villain scary even when he isn’t shooting dead international fashion designers.

As Donatella, Cruz meanwhile cuts a furious swathe. She trowels on the accent and affectations quite gleefully: a little thrill is sure to run through you every time she flutters her reptilian eye-lids or pronounces “company” as “kuuumpany” (perhaps unsurprisingly the Versace family have dismissed the series as fantasy).

Even more impressive is pop star Ricky Martin as Gianni’s devastated romantic partner Antonio D’Amico. It’s 1997 in Miami but gay rights are still an evolving concept as made clear when Detective Scrimshaw (Will Chase) casually asks the grieving D’Amico whether, after 15 years together, Versace was paying his lover for services rendered in the bedroom.

Amid the towering chintz and power-house performances, there’s a slight clumsiness to the interweaving of the murder hunt with wrangling over the future of the Versace empire (Donatella wants to delay plans to float the “kuuumpany” on the stock exchange). But the bare facts of the case are so intriguing, the evocation of Nineties Miami so searing, as to paper over the structural clunkiness.

With American Crime Story season two, Murphy has served up another killer slice of documudrama – a lush, gossipy tour de force that dazzles and tantalises in equal measure.

The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, episode 1 review: a gossipy, killer slice of docudrama

What’s on TV tonight: The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story and Rent for Sex

The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story

BBC Two, 9.00pm

Ryan Murphy’s true crime series follows up 2016’s dramatisation of the OJ Simpson trial with the story of serial killer Andrew Cunanan, who murdered at least five people over a three-month period, including the fashion designer Gianni Versace. Murphy and scriptwriter Tom Rob Smith use the word assassination very carefully here: the operatic opening scenes depict Versace (Édgar Ramírez) as a modern-day Medici prince, dispensing cheerful patronage to all in his Miami Beach fiefdom. By contrast, Cunanan (Darren Criss) is portrayed as a man so insecure in his own skin that he is almost physically incapable of telling the truth: “You tell gay people you’re gay and straight people you’re straight,” exclaims an exasperated friend. “I tell people what they need to hear,” comes the too-calm reply.

Both Criss and Ramirez are excellent and there’s strong support from Ricky Martin as Versace’s bewildered live-in boyfriend and a perhaps slightly too-camp Penélope Cruz as Donatella. Smith’s solid script does a good job of juggling various timelines to show how this particular killer came to be. Sarah Hughes

What’s on TV tonight: The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story and Rent for Sex

20 years on, why are there so many unanswered questions about Gianni Versace’s murder?

On the morning of July 15 1997, Gianni Versace was shot on the steps of his Miami mansion. The 50-year-old fashion designer was returning home with a selection of magazines bought from his local news café on Ocean Drive when he was twice hit in the head. Rushed to hospital with a faint pulse, his injuries proved too severe. At 9.20am, he was declared dead.

It sparked an international media sensation, a nationwide search for a killer – and one of the largest failed FBI manhunts of all time.

Two decades on, the shooting is the starting point for the latest outing of American Crime Story, the critically acclaimed television series that launched in 2016 with the ten-parter, The People vs OJ Simpson.

Like most people, that brief summary of Versace’s murder was more or less all that I knew when I was approached by Brad Simpson and Nina Jacobson, producers of American Crime Story, to write a mini-series about the events leading up to it.

They had responded to my novel Child 44, loosely based on the Russian serial killer Andrei Chikatilo, and my scripts for the BBC drama, London Spy. But the original idea for The Assassination of Gianni Versace had come from Ryan Murphy, the king of American television and creator of hit shows including Nip/Tuck and Glee.

I was sent a copy of Vulgar Favors, Vanity Fair journalist Maureen Orth’s book chronicling the months and years preceding the Versace murder. It was remarkable not least because it showed how little I knew about the complexity and heartbreak of the story. I was a crime writer, a reader of true crime, and this was one of America’s biggest murder investigations of all time – so why had it passed me by?

My first impulse as a scriptwriter when starting on a new project is to try and read everything written on the subject. In some cases, that is impossible; there’s simply too much. In this instance, it was with surprise and some dismay that I discovered how little material there was, both about the crime itself, but also about Versace as a man.

In terms of public profile, it was the very opposite to the OJ Simpson case. With that trial, most people knew its various twists and turns, the names of the lawyers, even actual lines of courtroom dialogue. With Versace, I didn’t even know there had been four other murders leading up to his. I didn’t know the names of these victims, nor their stories. What, if anything, connected them to Versace?

Far from being asked to dramatise a famous moment of history, the challenge felt closer to being asked to solve an untold mystery.

And so it was that, three years ago, I heard the name Andrew Cunanan for the first time, the young man with an IQ of 147, once full of promise and potential, who was ultimately responsible for five savage murders. ​Did he know Versace? It seems that they’d met in San Francisco four years before the murder. But what had happened between them?

When I asked Orth what had drawn her to the case in the first place, she answered that she’d seen a photograph of Cunanan, a handsome young man, wearing black tie, and it struck her that he seemed such an unlikely killer. This is the question at the centre of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: not who did it – there’s no doubt about that – but why he did.

Many killers display disturbing patterns of behaviour that go back many years. They’re violent, abusive, cruel to animals. Arson is a repeating indicator for a troubled psychology. If you had told Cunanan or his friends that, at the age of 18, he was going to be a notorious and despised killer, they would have found the idea impossible to believe.

Cunanan was a gentle boy with a high-pitch voice, mocked for being gay, an effete Oscar Wilde-like figure at his school, who used his wit to deflect the homophobic taunts he regularly received. His father, Modesto, had been born in the Philippines, joined the US Navy, earned US citizenship, came to America to live the immigrant dream of success, joining Merrill Lynch and using his handsome salary to send Andrew to one of the finest schools in the country: Bishop’s in La Jolla, San Diego.

Cunanan read widely, delighted in art and literature. He liked to laugh; even more, he liked to make other people laugh. He recited Robin William’s monologues to his friends and family. He wanted to impress people. He wanted to be happy. He wanted to be loved.

The series we set out to make was never going to be simply the life story of Versace, though we contrast his success with Cunanan’s failures.

But Versace’s was a vibrant success story, about the particular nature of an individual’s brilliance, not a crime story; those are about the nature of society – in this case, the destruction wrought on so many by homophobia. How do you survive in a society where many consider your existence to be a crime?

The Assassination of Gianni Versace was my first experience of dramatising real events. Yet there wasn’t an inordinate amount of detail to go on. There had been no murder trial, there were gaps in understanding the timeline of the killer, and the police investigations were never held up to much scrutiny.

We were trying to build a picture of events from a series of fragments, all that remained from the wreckage of lives destroyed by Cunanan.

So what was the connection between his five victims, who were killed during a three-month period in 1997: an aspiring young architect in Minneapolis, a former US Navy sailor, a Chicago real estate tycoon, a devoted national parks employee and a globally renowned fashion icon?

Cunanan had been on the FBI’s Most Wanted list for more than a month before the designer’s death, and was believed to be on the loose in the Miami Beach area. Why was the local community not warned? Why did it take his suicide, eight days after he shot Versace, to put an end to the killings?  

By dramatising the Versace story, my hope was that while I might make mistakes in the detail – for example, conflating characters for clarity, or giving characters lines of dialogue when we have no transcripts to guide us – such inventions would service the central themes and a larger truth. I raise this because The Assassination of Gianni Versace has come in for criticism from several quarters, in particular our decision to portray Versace (played by Venezuelan actor Édgar Ramírez) as having been HIV-positive.

Though his status was never made public in his lifetime, nor confirmed after his death, the suggestion that he was positive is prominent in Orth’s book, the primary resource for the show; to erase mention of it felt like removing part of the period’s history.

In many ways, the Aids crisis offers a parallel to Cunanan’s killings: gay men had been left to die while the world looked the other way, and it was only once a celebrity died that the world took action.

Part of what inspired me about Versace, in contrast to what appalled me about Cunanan (played by Glee star Darren Criss), was how one man overcame the obstacles in his life, while the other was consumed by hatred; how one man created while the other man destroyed. Andrew Cunanan was not a serial killer – he was a terrorist, a man filled with loathing for other people’s success. He saw himself as a victim of this world.

To that end, his journey is a road movie through American society.

20 years on, why are there so many unanswered questions about Gianni Versace’s murder?

‘He was willing to kill to become noticed’: How the US’s most elusive killer came to the small screen

The first ‘American Crime Story’ series centred on OJ Simpson – now, Gianni Versace’s murder is on the agenda. Jane Mulkerrins reports

In the summer of 1997, Gianni Versace was at the top of his game. The company he had built from scratch from one boutique in Milan in 1978 was valued at $807 million, and had 130 stores across the world. In under 20 years, this son of a Calabrian dressmaker had transformed the industry with his brazenly sexy, luxury fashion and couture, breaking down the traditional barriers between conservative high fashion and popular culture.

The front rows of his fashion shows were filled with all of his A-list friends, including Diana, Princess of Wales, Elton John and Michael Jackson, while on the runway supermodels such as Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington walked for him.

But on the morning of July 15, Versace was shot dead on the steps of his mansion on Miami’s South Beach by Andrew Cunanan, who it later transpired had also murdered four other men, at least two of them gay.  Cunanan, a notorious liar, was also gay but initially struggled to come to terms with it, and unable to find a job after dropping out of college, had taken to befriending rich gay men to fund a wealthy lifestyle he was unable to afford.

“It was a political murder,” believes Ryan Murphy, who is recreating the story in the second instalment of his American Crime Story series, The Assassination of Gianni Versace. “[Cunanan] was a person who targeted people specifically to shame them. He wanted to out them and to have a form of payback for a life that he felt he could not live.”  

The Assassination of Gianni Versace follows the extraordinary success of Murphy’s first American Crime Story series, The People vs OJ Simpson, an account of the trial of the former NFL superstar for the murders of Nicole Brown Simpson and Ron Goldman. It won nine Emmys and two Golden Globes for its unflinching confrontation with the police corruption, racism and Nineties celebrity culture that helped lead to OJ’s acquittal.

The second instalment – based on the book Vulgar Favors: Andrew Cunanan, Gianni Versace, and the Largest Failed Manhunt in US History, by former Vanity Fair writer Maureen Orth – has been adapted by the British screenwriter Tom Rob Smith, who has flipped the story to tell it backwards, starting with Versace’s murder, in order to understand how Cunanan could have evaded arrest for so long.

“The idea behind American Crime Story was that every season should be not just about a specific crime, but about a crime that America is guilty of, something that implicates us culturally,” says executive producer Nina Jacobson. With the OJ trial, the “cultural crime” was the racism of the LAPD, who were accused of attempting to racially incriminate Simpson. With Versace’s murder, Murphy and his team believe the crime is homophobia, including within the police who were criticised for not prioritising an investigation into Cunanan’s previous victims.

“It’s about the degree of shame and secrecy among gay people in America in the Nineties, in the wake of the Aids epidemic and the difficulty of living an authentic life,” says Jacobson. “It is very easy to think that the way it is now is the way it always has been. But there have been so many changes, in terms of visibility of the gay and trans community, compared to 20 years ago.”

Using Versace’s story as a base, The Assassination of Gianni Versace weaves in other narrative strands that delineate specific aspects of recent history. The fifth episode, for example, examines the impact of “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell”, the US policy, introduced in Clinton’s presidency, that attempted to improve life for gay people in the military so long as they hid their sexuality, while openly banning gay people from serving. The episode zones in on the story of one former Marine who left the military because of his sexuality and became one of Cunanan’s victims after he spurned his advances. While that episode was being filmed, Donald Trump was revealing his new plan to ban transgender people from the military.

The series also serves as a dark comment on the celebrity culture that blossomed in the late Nineties, with Versace and his love for the spotlight right at the epicentre. “You see it in the frenzy when Versace is murdered,” says Jacobson.

“Something that should be an outpouring of grief and horror is turned into a commercialised event. People were stealing X-rays, just to have a connection to a famous person.”

Cunanan, too, was obsessed with status and wealth. “One of his traits early on is this absolute infatuation with fame; he was willing to kill for it,” says Orth. “What he was willing to do to become noticed, I don’t see it as that different to making a sex tape, like the Kardashians, or becoming US president because you were a reality TV star.”

Filmed, in part, on location in the Versace mansion – a lush, colourful, wildly over-the-top property – the show has a particularly colourful dramatis personae. Edgar Ramirez plays the designer, and Ricky Martin his long-time partner, the former model, Antonio D’Amico. Glee star Darren Criss is Cunanan, while Penélope Cruz plays the imperious Donatella Versace, Gianni’s sister, business partner and muse. It’s suffused with the same glossy eroticism that Versace epitomised.

There were tales of torrid parties and orgies behind closed doors, which Versace would task D’Amico with arranging, and which are referenced, although not shown, in the show. Such assertions may go some way to explaining the Versace family’s statement that Murphy’s drama “should only be considered as a work of fiction”.

Martin, however, believes that such alleged details of Versace’s private life should not be deemed shocking. “There is nothing wrong with a relationship being open,” he says. “You have got to evolve. And if this is what is needed for the relationship to be more solid, then why not try it?”

While the series will no doubt rekindle interest in the personal story of Versace, his fashion legacy remains undimmed. To mark 20 years since her brother’s murder, Donatella launched the Versace Tribute Collection at Milan Fashion Week last September. But the clothes were overshadowed by the finale: five of the original supermodels – Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Helena Christensen and the former French First Lady Carla Bruni – took to the catwalk. Social media lost its mind. Gianni would, no doubt, have heartily approved.

‘He was willing to kill to become noticed’: How the US’s most elusive killer came to the small screen