Edgar Ramírez on Becoming Gianni Versace, from Prosthetics to Pasta

The emperor has no clothes. Or at least that’s how we first encounter Gianni Versace in the opening minutes of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story: bare-chested in bed, gazing up at the finely painted clouds on the ceiling. With the camera trailing a polite butler’s distance behind, we follow the fashion legend as he strides through his palatial Miami Beach home, donning slippers and a salmon-pink robe, until he emerges onto an oceanfront balcony. The regal stance seems to beg a proclamation—only for Versace, his clothes do the talking.

When episode one debuted a week ago—luring in 5.5 million viewers thirsty for fashion-world mythology, 1990s nostalgia, or prestige true crime—one revelation was that the story line had far more to do with serial killer Andrew Cunanan than the man on the marquee. The other revelation was that the Versace clan (highlighted again in tonight’s installment) shimmered, with Penelope Cruz playing the chiseled, platinum-blonde Donatella—sister, muse, empress—and Edgar Ramírez in a chameleonic turn as the designer, who fused Roman myth with Renaissance opulence to model a new kind of Sun King.

“It was part of his cultural heritage: He wanted to be ruler of the realm,” says Ramírez, referring to the Versace solar system, “with all these people orbiting around him.” Establishing that dynamic from the first scene—as the designer floats through Casa Casuarina, projecting an easy, unassailable confidence—called for a different sort of transformation for the Venezuela-born actor, whose recent roles had him dive into boxing (Hands of Stone) and extreme rock climbing and surfing (Point Break). “I tend to be very physical in the exploration of my characters,” he says, “as far as my health permits and the time permits.”

In this case, the challenge was to fill out Versace’s “typical Southern Italian, robust body,” says Ramírez. The first casualty was the actor’s catchall training regimen, which includes regular sparring sessions, Pilates, and CrossFit. “Boxing basically sculpts your arms and your shoulders in a very natural way, so I needed to let the muscle mass go to convey the body that Gianni had"—strong, yes, but not chiseled. Next came the Versace diet. "I had to put on some weight to fit his measurements. That was the fun part,” Ramírez jokes of the steady helpings of pasta and polenta, along with arepas—the Venezuelan stuffed pastries he tracked down while filming in Miami. “The hard part is to lose it,” he admits, “so I’m still in the process.”

The second task: trading his thick mahogany hair for the older designer’s sparse gray. “It is a bald cap, and then I had four amazing wigs, depending on the time period that we were shooting,” Ramírez explains, adding that a prosthetic helped reshape his forehead and hairline (and making him feel “like a conehead,” he laughs). As important as that visual doubling was, it was just the beginning. “Impersonation is flat; it’s not alive,” he says. “In the end, [the goal] is to capture what his essence might have been.”

Working alongside Cruz, in a revolving lineup of sleek, barely breathable ensembles, offered as much a boost in character-building. “The bond between Donatella and Gianni came rather easily for Penelope and I,” Ramírez says of their close sibling relationships and Catholic upbringings. “And we’re Latin, so it’s pretty much the same cultural reservoir,” he adds, referring to an emotional brio that comes to the fore in tonight’s second episode, as Versace and his sister argue about whether their label should reflect market desires or his singular lust for life. “All this kind of heroine-chic look—he wasn’t into that. He wanted people to feel healthy and alive and vital,” Ramírez says, “because that’s how he was.”

Where would that exuberance fit into the world today, with feminine norms shifting and commerce reframing the fashion conversation? “For better or for worse, we live in a culture that was partially shaped by Gianni Versace: the exacerbation of fame, glamour, the whole bling culture,” says Ramírez. Prescient, too, was the way the designer injected unbridled sensuality into his work, from the red-carpet shutdowns to the supermodels still ruling the Versace runways. “He had a fascination for beauty in everything,” the actor adds. “It was about the women feeling gorgeous—he wanted the dresses to be a tool to be empowered.” With sartorial messaging on the awards circuit this year, that impulse lives on.

Edgar Ramírez on Becoming Gianni Versace, from Prosthetics to Pasta

What Are We Getting Out of Prestige True Crime?

This much has already been said about The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, which premiered on FX on Wednesday night: It is notreally about Gianni Versace. It’s not even predominantly about the aftermath of his assassination. Instead, the show should be named after the magazine article from which it came: “The Killer’s Trail” by Maureen Orth, published in Vanity Fair in 1997 (and which became her book Vulgar Favors). “The Killer’s Trail” would be the most literal descriptor for Versace: ACS, an unrelenting, nearly murder-an-episode, sleek slaughterfest that is actually about Andrew Cunanan, Versace’s murderer.

Ryan Murphy’s latest American Crime Story installment does begin with Gianni Versace, who was gunned down by Cunanan in front of his Miami mansion in 1997. But the anthology series is much more about the four murders committed by Cunanan in the two months he spent on the run preceding that act. Cunanan—an equal parts charismatic and off-putting poseur who crafted outlandish stories about himself and his family for the better part of his life; a gay man who traveled in some of the highest and lowest echelons of closeted, clandestine, and out society during the years of Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell—is a fascinating, gruesome figure. Orth had plenty of material for her exhaustive book about him. So why is this show named for Versace?

I’m willing to posit that it’s because, along with a recent crop of similar television shows and films we could call “prestige true crime,” ACS: Versace doesn’t want to admit what it really is. For one thing, like its predecessor The People v. O.J. Simpson, the show arrives amid a glut of ’90s nostalgia, glammed-up with Day-Glo fashion, questionable hairstyles, and beloved dance beats, as if to staunch the spilled blood with spandex and hairspray. Content creators, we’ll call them, since these productions are available streaming, airing weekly, or playing at the movie theater, have struck gold with crime stories from the ’90s, catering to millennials who were too young to really understand them, and to those older who are eager to relive the era they personified. ACS: Versace is part of the explosion of a centuries-old genre that used to be synonymous with trash, or pulp, and has now, by trend and circumstance, been elevated to prestige entertainment, where it bleeds onto our screens small and large.

True crime has always been about details, about feeding a streak of voyeurism with any and all facts about a past case (think of all the Murderpedia-type sites online, and their Reddit offshoots for discussing endless theories and motives). Of course, the more unbelievable the details the better, which means that the most notorious crimes catch the most attention. Serial killers, like Cunanan, provide multiple crime scenes and victims to pore over; sensational incidents with no resolution, like the murder of JonBenét Ramsey, can provide fixation forever; and crimes involving attractive young women, like Amanda Knox’s indictment, imprisonment, and release for the slaying of Meredith Kercher, invite ample opportunities for lurid dime-store analysis.

It’s not difficult to see why Andrew Cunanan’s story gripped the country in 1997, when he ended his murder spree by shooting Versace and, eventually, himself in the head, and why it would titillate any true crime fan today. ACS: Versace does nearly the deepest dive it possibly could on the murderer’s life over eight episodes: from his childhood in La Jolla, California, with a grifter father who left his wife and four children destitute when his job as a stockbroker turned to embezzling; through years drifting through gay scenes in San Francisco and San Diego, where he cultivated a series of older men who paid for a lavish if precarious lifestyle, and eventually—whether due to being dumped by his last rich boyfriend, or the fact that two of his former friends moved away to the same city (and thus on without him)—to his development into a homicidal sociopath. He traveled to Minneapolis and killed his old friends there, followed by another wealthy older gentleman in Chicago, a cemetery caretaker whose car he needed in New Jersey, and, finally, Versace in Miami; but not before living there, undetected by police for weeks, watching his name appear in headlines all over the world.

Yet, despite having all the hallmarks of true crime, ACS: Versace’s showrunners, its marketing campaign, and the industry buzz surrounding it are trying to sell it as something bigger—instead of the low-down, dirty details, of which there is an abundance, Murphy et al want us to know that they are speaking to much larger issues in their work, primarily homophobia, even feminism, which Murphy has attached to Gianni’s sister Donatella Versace. This rhetoric has heightened as the Versace family has come out staunchly against the production, and Murphy, as well as stars Penelope Cruz and Ricky Martin, have had to defend the show’s existence and its splashy rollout.

Screenwriter Tom Rob Smith has said ACS: Versace’s purpose is “supporting a bigger truth,” which is “celebrating Versace.” “We are exploring why he was a genius,” he told Variety, “why he was important, the impact that he made, and why it was such a loss when he was murdered—both on a personal level in terms of all the people that loved him, all the people that admired him, and on a cultural level as well. It’s a show that celebrates and admires him.” This is true to the extent that the iconic designer is portrayed with empathy by Edgar Ramirez (though his estate disputes several details of the show, including his health status), but he is only central to the show in the first few episodes. In many of them, he barely features at all; one early, pivotal scene with Versace and Cunanan, a date at the San Francisco Opera, was the invention of screenwriters. Ricky Martin, who plays Versace’s lover, Antonio D’Amico, told Vanity Fair, “We’re not making a photo; we’re making a painting. We add color, etc.” But compared to Cunanan, in an eerie and meticulous performance by Glee’s Darren Criss, whose sadistic murders are punishingly graphic, everyone else is shades of gray.

We don’t have to hold all creative works about real-life suffering to the standards of what would hurt or offend surviving family members, but after watching a fictional Cunanan—whose real-life counterpart craved perhaps nothing so much as the type of fame bestowed by a prestige TV series—sadistically torture and humiliate his victims in fine detail, it’s hard not to feel like maybe we should.

There is a difference between the hundreds of Investigation Discovery recreations or Lifetime Movie Channel films dedicated to unspeakably brutal crimes and American Crime Story: Versace; I, Tonya; the soapy The Menendez Murders and their ilk. One crop I’m writing about and the other I’m not, and probably would never. The marks of prestige—lots of money, lavish sets, tons of marketing, huge stars, discussions of America, fame, power, and sex, and, the big one, “the truth”—give these works weight that they don’t always deserve. And, wrapped up in all of it, we forget that there are people out there to whom some of these horrible events really happened, and who are not making money or winning awards for reliving them.

It’s getting difficult to separate these entertainers from the flocks of vultures they depict. The particularly despicable one that stuck out to me in ACS: Versace was a woman who, cordoned outside of the designer’s mansion where his body is lying on the steps, rips out one of his ads from a magazine. As she breaks the police line, you think she might be running up to place it beside Versace, as a kind of benediction; instead, she uses the paper to soak up his blood, holding it above her head like a trophy.

What Are We Getting Out of Prestige True Crime?

Inside the New York Preview of Ryan Murphy’s American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace

A few lucky New Yorkers got a sneak peek of Ryan Murphy’s American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace Monday night at Metrograph. The cast including Darren Criss, Ricky Martin, and Édgar Ramirez attended the special screening along with Murphy and executive producers Nina Jacobson and Brad Simpson.

The second installment of Murphy’s anthology series, premiering January 17 on FX, follows the murder of Gianni Versace (Ramirez) and the nine-day manhunt for Andrew Cunanan (Criss) as well as the personal lives of each man.

Criss had previously worked on two of Murphy’s projects (Glee and American Horror Story), but hadn’t had the opportunity to work directly with him. “I’ve always appreciated his tutelage, his insight, and his encouragement,” the actor said. “Everyone knows him for the quality of his work so to see him and work with him in tandem was really surreal and a real thrill for me.”

To prepare for the role of Cunanan, Criss read Maureen Orth’s book (which the show is based on) and spoke to people who knew the murderer. “Unlike the O.J. case where there was an overwhelming amount of information, this was very limited. He was a thousand different people with a thousand different people,” he said. “You had to speculate a lot of things; at one moment he’s ‘A’ and at the next moment he’s ‘B’.”

Inside the New York Preview of Ryan Murphy’s American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace