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Judith Light on her iconic career and her lifetime of advocating for equal rights

Judith Light, who most recently starred in Transparent and The Assassination of Gianni Versace, has been acting for decades. But there was a moment, as she was just starting out, when she almost left the business for good. “Early on in my career — because I wasn’t getting what I wanted and I saw other people getting what I wanted and I wasn’t getting it — I went into a depression,” she tells designer Zac Posen (a board member of Yahoo Lifestyle’s parent company, Oath, which is a division of Verizon) in the third episode (above) of Yahoo Lifestyle’s new “Loud and Clear” video series. “I thought to myself, ‘I have to get out of the business.’ I looked up and I said, ‘Look, whatever it is that you want me to do, I’m here to be of service.’ And it was in that moment that everything changed.”

Light got her big break on the soap opera One Life to Live. “Maybe I won’t leave the business now,” she remembers thinking when she was cast. But it was when she landed the role of Angela Bower on Who’s the Boss that her life really changed. “It was a cultural shift,” she tells Posen of the show. “It was the woman in the workplace and the man at home. And I have young women come up to me to this day to say, ‘I went into the fashion business [or] advertising — I knew I could do it because that was my role model.’”

In addition to her life as an artist, Light’s role as an activist is equally important to her. She has spent decades fighting for LGBT rights. “We are one family, we are one humanity, we are of one mind, and to me the whole issue of prejudice and bigotry is something that has propelled me through life,” she says.

“Dan came out,” Light says, recalling the struggle of actor Danny Pintauro, who played her son on Who’s the Boss, and how that affected her. “And there were other people I saw that were trying to live their best and truest life.”

Her work on screen is a mirror of that activism. In the Gianni Versace miniseries, Light played Marilyn Miglin, a woman in denial about her husband’s sexuality. Discussing the series’ executive producer, Ryan Murphy, Light says: “He sees the stories that need to be put into the culture to have discussions about the shift in the culture. The Assassination of Gianni Versace is really about how the gay community was viewed at this particular time, and if the culture were different some of the things that happened may have not had to happen.”

In her life and work, Light has made sure to do what she so admires in Murphy — start important conversations. “Nothing to me is more important than being of service and kindness and gratitude,“ she says. "Who is it that you want to be? … If you live in that question, you can have a very extraordinary life. The unexamined life, to me, is not worth living.”

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ episode 5 recap: Asked and told

**Warning for images of self harm and attempted suicide in this recap**

The arc of time always endorses progress, but it’s amazing how long it can take to get from “no way” to “no duh.” Obviously, in 2018 we agree that women should be allowed to vote and people of color should have access to drinking fountains etc., but those basic things took decades of horrible, hateful ‘debate’ until they were suddenly accepted as common wisdom. Gay people can now serve openly in the military thanks to a ‘radical’ policy change by President Obama and it already feels like such a no-brainer that people don’t even really debate it anymore. Yet that policy change followed a hundred years of institutionalized homophobia, unreported assaults, murders, and dishonorable discharges. This week’s episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace whisked us back to those dark times and as difficult as it was to watch, it felt valuable and necessary to truly appreciate how much better things are now. Let’s talk about it!

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We began with Donatella Versace completely queening out.

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Gianni had just informed her that he was intending to ‘come out’ in the press, and rather than applaud him for his bravery, Donatella was VERY concerned about the company’s bottom line. In her opinion, the rock stars and literal royalty they’d been dressing would not want to be associated with a gay designer. That is obviously an insane line of reasoning today — A gay person? In fashion?? — but in her mind it made sense. Fortunately, Gianni was still feeling grateful to be alive after nearly succumbing to AIDS-related symptoms and in his mind coming out would be a celebration of life. It would also, it appeared, trigger a certain psychopath’s obsessions with him.

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That same Advocate article in which Versace came out as a homosexual had been hastily taped up in the back of Andrew Cunanan’s closet. And considering his apartment was empty save for trash bags and tattered underwear, the presence of these magazine pages made clear that Versace was still on his radar in a big way.

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Also, he was deeply in debt and he’d taken to shooting up heroin between his toes, both of which were bad signs. Andrew Cunanan’s journey had definitely taken a detour through some dark woods.

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We then met up with Jeff Trail (an incredible Finn Wittrock) working at some kind of compressed gas factory. During a testy lunch conversation with a coworker, we gathered that his post-military career had been less-than-prestigious compared to his Annapolis peers and he honestly didn’t want to talk about it, thank you.

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After conning his credit card company into allowing him one last purchase (a flight to Minneapolis!), Cunanan arrived attempting to resume his BFF-status with Jeff Trail and David Madson. But it became immediately clear neither of them wanted to see him. In Jeff’s case, it was because apparently Cunanan had sent a postcard to Jeff’s dad ostensibly OUTING HIM. (A true gay psycho power play if there ever was one.) And David was just straight up tired of getting proposed to by someone who made his stomach turn.

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You know? Like, thank you for the $10,000 Rolex you clearly stole from a trick, but I’d rather not enter into a joint tax status with you.

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Even though Jeff couldn’t even stand to look at Cunanan, he agreed to let him crash at his place. But he had no intention of actually being there, as he then couch surfed at this pregnant sister’s house. She was about to give birth any minute, and he was excited to become a proud gay uncle. There was not yet an Instagram back then, but just imagine all the gay uncle photos he’d post around the holidays! Things were looking bright.

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It was pretty awkward when David took Andrew out that night, and Andrew couldn’t stop bragging to David’s co-workers that they were engaged. David had made the mistake of replying to his constant proposals with “TBD” but Andrew took that as a yes. Anyway, it was so stressful to me. But I DID enjoy this lady absolutely wailing on a clarinet. Go girl!

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Back at Jeff’s place, Andrew was the world’s worst houseguest and immediately began going through all of Jeff’s stuff. He found the gun, obviously, but he also found David’s old Navy uniform along with a VHS tape of the CBS special he’d appeared in (anonymously) talking about being gay in the military. And even though to us it was a brave document of being a closeted soldier in a time when that could get you killed, Andrew seemed resentful and hateful toward Jeff, pointing a gun at the TV instead. Truly twisted.

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We then flashed back to Jeff’s time in the Navy, specifically the series of incidents in which another gay naval officer was routinely assaulted by his comrades and only Jeff stepped in to stop it. Jeff was doing the right thing in helping his peer, but this immediately painted a target on his back for being another potential gay. And things got worse when gay soldiers began to name names in order to avoid dishonorable discharge. Or, in certain cases, named tattoos.

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Oh god. Jeff cut off his tattoo with a box cutter. That alone should tell you how intense this was getting.

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Around this time the Navy decided to kinda-sorta address homosexuality in the military by distributing comic books that dramatized “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell.” At the time I think people thought this policy would protect the inner lives of gay servicemen, but in retrospect, we know that it led to more discharges and persecution than ever before.

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So, yeah. Things were pretty bleak. (Spoiler: Jeff did not end up hanging himself in this scene.)

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Ironically, one of the saving graces in Jeff’s turmoil came when he encountered a bright and personable guy at a local gay bar. The thing with sociopaths is sometimes they use their gift/curse for the betterment of others, and in this case, Andrew Cunanan was just the fun-night-out that Jeff needed to feel like himself. And over the course of several hangs, we got the sense that Jeff was ready to embrace his sexuality and even go so far as to appear in a television interview that could potentially get him kicked out of the military. In other words, he was ready for the runway.

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Loved this visual reference to Get Out. I love that from now on, anytime someone eats Froot Loops while sitting cross-legged will be forever marked as a psycho. And yeah, when Jeff arrived back at his now-messy apartment to find Andrew doing this, guess what he said? “Get out!” Even though all those years ago Andrew had been a friendly face at a gay bar, he was now overstaying his welcome in Jeff’s life. And unfortunately for Jeff, he was too honest about this fact.

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Because as we learned last week, after Andrew lured Jeff to David’s loft with the promise of returning his handgun (Jeff, c’mon. Did you really think Andrew had placed the gun in his duffel “accidentally”?) he suddenly found himself on the business end of a hammer. Really terrible.

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And the tragic button was that while Jeff’s mangled corpse was lying wrapped in a rug, his sister went into labor and gave birth. Damn.

“Don’t Ask Don’t Tell” was another wonderful exploration of the life and trials of one of Cunanan’s victims, and it was especially elegantly told. Tying together Versace’s coming-out interview with Jeff Trail’s staying-in interview was the perfect way to describe the exact nature of being closeted in 1997. If even wealthy, super successful artists struggled to make that leap, how on earth could an everyman in the military do it? It was an untenable situation, and like many other elements of gay life in the ’90s, it contributed to the environment that pushed Andrew Cunanan to commit the crimes he did. There’s still a long way to go before homosexuality is a non-issue with some people, but this episode was a lovely and painful reminder that things really have gotten better. Hopefully, we can keep that going.

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ episode 5 recap: Asked and told

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ Episode 4 recap: Toxic friendship

**WARNING: NSFL image in this recap**

Warning: This recap of the “House by the Lake” episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story contains spoilers.

Entertainment doesn’t have to always be fun. Really, its main job is to provoke sensations in us that, even when unpleasant, help reframe our real experiences or bring insight into our lives. That is how fictional stories can feel not only true but essential.

The bulk of “House by the Lake” transpired between two now-dead men, so it’s impossible to know the thoughts, fears, or inner lives of either party leading up to their deaths. But in spending an hour exploring the final days of David Madson (via an incredible performance by Cody Fern), we know not only of his decency and humanity, but also about the life and (literal) death struggles of gay men in the 1990s. Aside from the camp value of the 1990s fashion scene (and Penelope Cruz’s instantly iconic performance) there has been almost no fun to derive from The Assassination of Gianni Versace. But that doesn’t mean it’s not great and important and endlessly heartbreaking. Let’s talk about this episode!

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We began with what appeared to be a ’90s-era infomercial from the Minneapolis Tourism Board that strangely did not include any Prince music!

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It looked like a nice place back then, and definitely not the kind of place where a senseless, gay-rage-fueled murder was about to take place.

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This was one week before the Lee Miglin murder, explored in the previous episode. Andrew Cunanan was hanging out with his successful architect buddy David in David’s sweet loft. But apparently David had made two fatal mistakes: He didn’t like-like Andrew Cunanan back, and also he had openly talked about his successful career. Those are both Andrew Cunanan’s biggest turn-offs if we’re being frank.

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Making matters worse, David was clearly in love with their other friend, Jeff. (Finn Wittrock had a free afternoon at some point apparently.) So when Andrew Cunanan summoned Jeff to the loft, it was not to hang out and watch Friends or ER. It was to murder him with a hammer right in front of David.

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From this shocking and disgusting act onward, the episode became a tense hostage crisis in which a terrified (and heartbroken) David couldn’t seem to get away from Andrew Cunanan.

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Andrew may not have been fully sane, but he fully had a gun. All David could really do was pretend things were normal, that they were still hanging out, and look for any opportunity to sneak off.

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The horror and sadness of these scenes were so overwhelming that I was borderline relieved when we got to see a close-up of the latex dummy meant to be Finn Wittrock’s body. It was so bad and also it looked like Andrew McCarthy?

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Thus concludes the only remotely fun thing about this otherwise heartbreaking episode.

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After Andrew forced David to ditch the loft with him, a co-worker swung by to check in on David and found blood stains on the buffed concrete. Later, when detectives arrived, we got the sinking feeling that yet again the investigation would be hobbled by their evident discomfort and unfamiliarity with gay people. Certain immediate assumptions were just Occam’s Razor type mistakes, like the identities of the victim and killer. But when they came across some gay paraphernalia (including gay porn on DVD! In 1997!) it’s like they immediately wrote off the crime as part of some sick, gay underworld thing. When really it was just a psycho who murdered his friend out of jealousy, a thing that happens to 100% of straight people according to Investigation Discovery.

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The episode also explored David’s background, in particular his relationship with (and coming out to) his father. This included touching flashbacks in which young David signaled that he was not like other boys (in that he hated murdering ducks) and his man’s-man father assured him that was okay. I was already tearing up.

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As he sat trapped in Cunanan’s passenger seat, David even wept when he thought about how now the world would know he was gay, and he wondered what his parents would say, or what their friends would say. Again, if you are not a gay person who lived in the 1990s, try to imagine feeling so terrified of basic existence in society. And in addition to that, imagine there is a disease decimating your peers. If there’s one thing we can take away from this (admittedly hard-to-watch) series, it’s that life was truly hell for a lot of good people back then. Because, man. He is literally a hostage but is now most concerned that his parents’ store will lose business.

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In a lovely surprise, Aimee Mann ended up playing the folk singer at a dive bar Andrew and David stopped at. While David considered attempting to escape through the bathroom window, Mann sang a cover of The Cars’ “Drive” and it verged on sublime. This guy knows what I’m talking about:

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It had been a while since we’d seen Cunanan expressing anything resembling a human emotion, so this was unsettling. Part of him must have known he was past the point of no return. Yes he had successfully gotten the man he loved to go on the open road with him. But if we’re being real, he did not achieve this by very honest means.

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In another flashback we learned that David had worked extremely hard in architecture school and won a prestigious award, perhaps mainly to impress his father enough so that when he came out to him, his father wouldn’t be overly angry. And in the scene where he finally did it, his father did express disappointment, but even more devastatingly, he seemed disappointed that his son couldn’t tell him this without also delivering “good news.” The whole thing would have seemed unbearably sad if the father hadn’t seemed like a decent, loving man at his core. So many weren’t/aren’t as lucky to have dads like that. Ugh, the ’90s.

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In the episode’s final heartbreak (which we knew was coming), David attempted to finally rebuke Cunanan and run away from him. The episode allowed us to think he’d dodged Cunanan’s bullets and taken cover in a lake side cabin, where he enjoyed one last visit with his father.

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But no. He had not outrun the bullets. He’d been struck down right there, and then finished off by a reprehensible madman.

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Cunanan laid down to cuddle his slaughtered friend, but from our perspective he did not deserve the companionship even a corpse would afford. Just ask this cricket:

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For the past two weeks we’ve seen Andrew Cunanan embody every gay fear and insecurity (both society’s and gay peoples’ own) and use his warped mind to destroy upstanding, good men. Good men, the kind he could never be and never would be. A smarter person than me could write an articulate essay about how Cunanan was a product of his time, or a symbol, or whatever. But the more important take-away from these two episodes, I think, was the greatness and dignity of Lee Miglin and David Madson. Though Cunanan ultimately wielded the tools by which they died, The Assassination of Gianni Versace wants to remind us that the world they existed in was at the very least complicit. It’s a dark thought, but a necessary one. And that’s how a show as complicated and frankly stomach-churning as this one is as essential as television gets.

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ Episode 4 recap: Toxic friendship

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ episode 3 recap: American horror story

Warning: This recap of the “A Random Killing” episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story contains spoilers.

Horror loses its bite when we learn too much about the villain. It’s not just that the unknown is always scarier than the known, it’s that we can’t help but develop a grudging empathy for a killer the more we get to know them. After Monster laid bare Aileen Wuornos’s many tragic tribulations before her serial killings, it became easy to forget she was a terrifying death-bringer for certain innocent people. Or in fiction, was there ever a bigger blunder than Rob Zombie attempting to explain Michael Myers’ childhood to us in the Halloween remake? Shockingly, finding out that The Shape had been bullied as a child completely robbed him of his terrifying, shark-like unknowability. But what happens when the reverse occurs, and a complex, borderline sympathetic villain is suddenly stripped back and streamlined into a dark void? Horror returns.

Three episodes in and it’s clear that Gianni Versace himself is only a side character in what is ultimately the horror saga of Andrew Cunanan’s crimes. But where the premiere introduced Cunanan as a verbal, witty, clever, and deeply troubled person motivated by jealousy and longing, this week reframed him as a straight-up horror movie slasher. His motives were opaque and unpredictable, his methods bizarre and hard to explain. I was terrified. Is there a chance the American Crime Story subtitle contains a typo? This week The Assassination of Gianni Versace was suddenly much closer in tone and effect to Ryan Murphy’s American Horror Story. Which is to say, “A Random Killing” was one of the most disturbing episodes of TV I’ve seen in a while. Let’s talk about it!

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We began with two women hawking perfume on the Home Shopping Network in the mid-’90s.

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The perfume was ingeniously called “Pheromone,” and its mastermind was one Marilyn Miglin, the IRL baroness of a Chicago-area beauty empire. She was played here by the great Judith Light, who had been mercifully freed of her Transparent wig and personality. Judith Light was INCREDIBLE in this episode, which — though it was about the two murders Cunanan committed prior to Versace’s — centered the story around this woman and how she coped when her husband was murdered.

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After her husband failed to pick her up from the Chicago airport, Marilyn arrived at her ominously empty house and recruited some neighbors to help check the place out. But from the long, tense tracking shots of the all-white, fancy home, we knew something was wrong. A stranger had been there. But what kind of maniac would leave ice cream out on the counter? The police definitely needed to be called! (Also there was a corpse in the garage.)

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We then flashed back a week and met Marilyn’s husband, Lee, a well-respected and enormously successful commercial real estate developer. Right away we could tell the two adored each other, but in a married-my-best-friend kind of way. Lee was probably not interested in doing sex with Marilyn, but they definitely held hands in bed. We should all be so lucky!

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Anyway, while Marilyn was away on her work trip, guess who swung by for a visit? Yep, Andrew Cunanan dropped in unannounced, and we gathered that Lee had hired Cunanan as an escort in the past. And though Lee clearly tried to be a gentleman toward his young companion, Cunanan took matters into his own hands. And in this case those matters were duct tape, a bag of concrete, and eventually a screwdriver.

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Aside from brutally murdering older men, Cunanan loves to give a speech while doing so. In this case he monologued about how Lee was a powerful man attempting to build the tallest building in the world, but now Cunanan had power over him. So whereas we mayhave believed that Cunanan’s murders had been opportunistic, or methods for him to gain quick cash and stolen cars… It was now clear he was excited by the idea of destroying powerful men as a way of elevating his own status. Dark, dark stuff. And this extended sequence of torture and murder was one of the less pleasant things I’ve ever seen on TV. Poor Lee.

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Rather than show you all that violence, let’s just settle for this image of Cunanan stabbing a honey-glazed ham! Think of it as sort of a metaphor for what had just happened in the previous scene.

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Anyway, back to Marilyn. Her whole thing was, she was a sharp, professional woman who wanted the investigation undertaken in the most efficient manner possible. She verbally itemized every item Cunanan had stolen from their home, and vehemently denied any knowledge of why Cunanan had surrounded her husband’s corpse in gay porn rags. The killer must’ve brought them, duh.

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I also liked this strange moment when the investigators were asking Marilyn questions but she just wanted to talk about her son’s burgeoning movie career. It’s almost poignant how in the midst of this tragedy she was still trying to maintain her composure as a strong businesswoman and image protectress.

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But of course, eventually she crumbled and gave a moving (and convincing) speech about how much she loved her husband, and that it HAD been a genuine marriage, despite whatever his leanings were. They’d been best friends and partners and each other’s support systems. And it goes without saying that Judith Light’s work was devastating in this episode. Hope she still has space on her mantel for more trophies, because dang.

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Meanwhile, Cunanan was driving around in Lee’s stolen Lexus, and browsing local Versace boutiques, which in my opinion is foreshadowing. But he soon realized that the built-in car phone was giving his location away whenever he passed a cell tower. It was time to find some new wheels!

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And unfortunately for the poor undertaker who drove by Cunanan in a pickup, red was Cunanan’s favorite vehicle color!

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Next thing we knew, he was following the man back to his mortuary, leading him into the basement at gunpoint, and then, well, you know. Truly heartbreaking. I have to be honest with you, I am not a fan of Andrew Cunanan.

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We then ended with this moving scene, when Marilyn Miglin returned to the Home Shopping Network airwaves and memorialized her husband while clutching a bottle of her perfume. And while the juxtaposition of mixing pathos with consumerism could have been a salient satirical point, Judith Light’s pained emotions made it just simply devastating. In a series ostensibly about one famous murder, it’s clear Cunanan destroyed so many more lives than just Versace’s.

“A Random Killing” also served to make the point that many of the gay-related details of Cunanan’s crimes were swept under the rug in order to maintain reputations. Marilyn Miglin actively sought to prevent the press from knowing that her husband had known Cunanan prior to the murder, and while one can understand the protectiveness a victim’s family might have, it was this kind of public discomfort with gay men that hobbled Cunanan’s swift apprehension. Just another frustrating element to what has become an increasingly American horror story. (Get it? Like the show.) Great, if deeply unpleasant, stuff.

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ episode 3 recap: American horror story

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ episode 2 recap: Death’s a beach

Warning: This recap of the “Manhunt” episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story contains spoilers.

From the beginning we’ve known that Andrew Cunanan fancied himself a man of finer tastes. Even while on the run for a murder spree, he still took the time to purchase just the right Wayfarer knock-offs or order a surf ‘n’ turf meal from a wealthy john. Did Cunanan wear just any old bathing suit? Nope, it was magenta Speedo all the way. And when it came to rat-infested, crumbling junkie motels, you better believe Cunanan asked for an ocean view. Yes, even the lowest of human existences can leave room for glamour.

“Manhunt” continued last week’s premiere with even more backstory of where both Versace and Cunanan had been in their respective lives before the titular assassination. And like last week, it took what everyone knew about the case (from sensationalized tabloid coverage mostly) and filled in the gaps with new facts, genuine insight, and arresting beauty. Let’s talk about it!

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We began with an unrecognizable, anonymous man in disguise.

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Underneath this ingenious, identity-concealing ensemble was none other than famous fashion designer Gianni Versace. But this costumed ruse would be for neither heist nor romp. No, he was at a clinic receiving bad news about a blood test he’d recently taken. And while this episode was careful to keep things vague, this scene, added to a later scene in which he could barely walk unassisted, was meant to suggest that Versace’s life had once been threatened long before Andrew Cunanan ever pointed a gun at him. You can probably guess what the illness was. But as a reminder, the ’90s were an especially bad time for a specific group of people.

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Versace’s diagnosis played heavily into this episode’s central concept. That he’d been able to fight off his illness using state-of-the-art medicines, he’d slapped the grim reaper across its tacky face, and he’d begun to embrace life as only a formerly dead man walking could. Which, as Donatella Versace noted, made his later murder all the more devastating.

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But death comes for us all, even those who can afford to have their facial bullet wounds spackled over and their cremains laid to rest so fabulously.

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Even when reduced to several ounces of ash, Versace still flew first class. Honestly touching.

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We then cut over to Andrew Cunanan, who was currently speeding on the freeway scream-singing “Gloria.” Which, we’ve all done that, and in my case nearly every day. “Gloria” is one of the greatest songs of all time. As we quickly discovered, Cunanan was only just arriving in Miami, so this act of free-wheelin’ joy came after he’d murdered his first four victims. Yep, he was now murder-jazzed, and it was time to spread his brand of awful in a beach community!

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Cunanan showed up at the dingiest motel with the most beautiful oceanfront view in Miami. It was clearly a faded stucco hell pit of junkies and, well, other serial killers I’m guessing. Between the presence of a junkie Max Greenfield and a duct-tape gimp mask, this was like if American Horror Story: Hotel had been crossed with Miami Vice. Into it.

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Meanwhile the FBI had arrived in town around the same time, but this local Miami detective lady quickly realized they were terrible at their jobs and had not tried particularly hard to catch this gay spree-killer yet. They hadn’t even made any copies of his “Wanted” poster! And as we’d learn later, citizens were ready and willing to report a Cunanan sighting, which made it all the more frustrating that the FBI had been so slow to spread the word. (Thank God for America’s Most Wanted.)

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As you can imagine, Andrew Cunanan made fast friends with junkie Max Greenfield, and after a heartfelt scene in which Greenfield’s character talked about his HIV diagnosis, the two schemed openly about how to make quick cash and/or buy some junk to smoke. An enterprising liar and conman, it was almost charming that Cunanan still resorted to turning tricks sometimes. I guess that was easier than, like, check fraud or whatever.

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So, sex work for local lonely hearts was now on the menu! Congratulations, Miami fellas!

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Except, whoops … there was the pesky fact that Andrew Cunanan was a total psychopath. Which meant that this john’s simple request to be dominated led him to finding himself suffocating under a face full of duct tape and terrorized within an inch of his life while Andrew Cunanan danced around the room in a pink Speedo.

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Yeah this was one of the most disturbing scenes I’ve seen in a Ryan Murphy joint, but the terror was effective. The disturbing vibe continued even afterward, as the terrified john sat watching Cunanan finish a lobster meal, waited until Cunanan left, and then debated whether to call 911 and report the assault. Alas, the wedding ring he placed back on his finger suggested why the crime ultimately went unreported. Again: The ’90s really sucked.

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But enough darkness, it was time to remember what made Versace famous! In this scene, Donatella urged Versace to change things up and compete with his more goth-inspired competitors Galliano and McQueen, but Versace made clear that he was in the business of joy and beauty and life, especially now that he had his health back. Donatalla couldn’t help but see his point.

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And credit to this show for not only producing a convincing fashion show (with convincingly Versace-ish looks) but also even casting a runway model who resembled Shalom Harlow to play Shalom Harlow! Miss her. Come back, Shalom.

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As though we needed more evidence that Andrew Cunanan was unhinged, we got this cute scene where he smoked tons of drugs, then went to the bathroom for some quiet time. In this case quiet time involved wrapping his head and face in duct tape and also admiring the intensely insane serial killer wall he’d created in the bathroom:

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Yeah, I think we’d recalled Cunanan as being an out-of-control party boy or whatever, but this series has done a lot to prove he was insane in a scary and singular way. Just a bad-time-guy lookin’ for trouble.

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We also got glimpses into the romantic life shared by Versace and his lover, Ricky Martin (as himself, jk). And though their lifestyle of hooking up with men together and going to the clubs was nothing they were ashamed of in their private life, we could sense that the straight world would never understand their situation. Versace himself doubted that his partner truly loved him enough to want to be married (which … gay marriage? What a futuristic concept in 1997!), yet they still were clearly everything to each other. It would be romantic if we didn’t know where this was all heading.

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We then got another classic Cathy Moriarty appearance, in which we saw the incident when Cunanan sold a stolen coin to her at her pawn shop and she remembered it enough to contact the police after the shooting. And again, she’d even glanced at her collection of “Wanted” posters before making the sale, underscoring again that the authorities’ slow-to-act tendencies toward gay crime had almost directly led to Versace’s murder. But at least we can all continue to count on Cathy Moriarty when we need her!

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I loved this brief scene when a drag impersonator of Donatella showed up at Versace’s manor and demanded to come in and hang out. He was polite enough about it, noting that one Donatella in his life was enough, but still. She DID look fun to hang out with. I probably would’ve let her up.

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That night, Versace and his lover went out to the local dance club Twist, and Andrew Cunanan followed them there, presumably to shoot him right there in the club. But Versace ended up ducking out before the encounter happened but not before his lover informed him that even at night, even amid opportunities to be around other men … he still chose Versace and wanted to marry him. Again, except for the line of strangers behind them and the bad ’90s techno wafting in the air, this was an incredibly touching and romantic moment. These two.

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Inside, a clearly dejected Cunanan was approached by a random hottie, and he responded by having a borderline meltdown in which he listed all the different fake occupations he’d ever pretended to be. Including, of course, serial killer. But while the random hottie had no reason to think Cunanan was being serious about any of them, it was a chilling notion that someone who had spent a lifetime lying about his accomplishments was now going to try to make a name for himself in a more tragic and gruesome way. Ugh, he was the worst.

“Manhunt” functioned best as a continuation of last week’s introduction to the story and setting. And like last week, it relied on visuals and physical performance more than written dialogue, and was just as spellbinding. Tense, funny, emotional, and troubling all at once, this is a fascinating world to explore and I can’t get enough. Obviously it’s a dark story and doesn’t promise to get any lighter by the end of it, but I can’t help myself. That this is even on the air (and executed so perfectly) is enough to give someone a new lease on life. How very Versace.

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ episode 2 recap: Death’s a beach

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story’ premiere recap: When doves die

Warning: This recap of “The Man Who Would Be Vogue” episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story contains spoilers.

The best part of Peak TV is how excellent television no longer has to appeal to everyone. Sure, we can discuss giant hits like The Walking Dead with total strangers, and Grandma won’t stop talking about Breaking Bad. But increasingly — and often thanks to producer Ryan Murphy — mass audiences are not what the best shows aim for. About 14 people watched last year’s best series (Twin Peaks), and just try bringing up Insecure at a dinner party. We’re not all watching the same great shows anymore, but man, what a time to be a fringe TV viewer.

This is to say that The Assassination of Gianni Versace, the stellar new entry of Murphy’s already perfect  series, will be most appreciated by the chicest of bubbles. It’s gaudy, terrifying, campy, tragic, heartfelt, gorgeously filmed … and probably too specific in its milieu to excite a mainstream audience. But if the past 1.3 years taught us anything, it’s that bubbles may not always win elections, but damn is our art better. Definitely comment below if you disagree jk.

“The Man Who Would Be Vogue” was one of the most spellbinding and compelling (and timely!) episodes of television I’ve ever seen, and we should talk about it!

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We began with a typical morning in Miami, particularly if you are a wealthy Italian designer at the top of his game in the mid- to late ’90s.

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This, friends, was Gianni Versace (Edgar Ramirez), and between his gilded beach palace and servants in black tennis shorts, we could gather that he was pretty successful. Not so successful that he didn’t eat revolting honeydew melon for breakfast but doing well enough by most standards.

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By this point Versace was so famous that obese, pale Midwesterners would wait outside his home begging for him to autograph old issues of Vogue. Now THAT is fame.

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A few blocks away at the beach, a young man named Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss) was just finishing up screaming at the ocean. He had a big day ahead of him. He was ready to MURDER.

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And in a wordless, artfully directed, heartbreaking sequence, Cunanan ran up and shot Versace right there on his front steps. Several times. In the face. In other words, this ended up being not that great of a morning for him. Probably a Top 5 worst morning, if we’re being honest.

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We then flashed back to the first time Cunanan met Versace, at a gay dance club in San Francisco. Right off the bat (which is a baseball term and therefore probably not relevant to this scene), we learned that Cunanan’s ambitions to hang out with a famous man were outshined only by his ability to lie and exaggerate the details of his own life. Despite Versace’s initial reluctance to talk to this weirdo nobody, he was eventually intrigued by Cunanan’s claims of Italian heritage and other rich-boy jazz. Cunanan was IN.

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Except we then saw Cunanan replay the evening’s events to the skeptical straight couple he’d been living with, omitting certain details like how it’d been in a gay club (Cunanan was posing as straight to his roommates) and making it sound like Versace was picking HIM up. But I loved when the roommate dude looked at his wife and they rolled their eyes knowingly. Cunanan clearly loved to spin fanciful yarns, but it was also clear his friends were no longer believing his wild tales.

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Like his college friend over here, who called him out for lying to everybody about not only his sexuality but also his ethnicity and social class. Except what he SHOULD have called Cunanan out for was his glasses that attached to only the bridge of his nose. What kind of Bond villain was Andrew Cunanan trying to dress as? Anyway, regardless of all this, he was verifiably invited to the opera that Versace had designed gowns for, and that meant he needed to HUSTLE if he wanted Versace to believe that he was knowledgable and worldly.

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I am honestly not sure what those papery rectangle stacks are, but they appear to have “words” on them and in this case Andrew Cunanan was reading them? I don’t know, ask an old person. (I’m 57.)

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But yeah, Versace seemed to be the only person in the world NOT skeptical of this young, handsome liar. After the opera, as Cunanan literally basked in the spotlight while onstage, he told tales of growing up on Indonesian plantations and a Bentley-driving gay father. Perhaps Versace could tell this dude was making things up, but he seemed intrigued by the improv. Cheers to con artistry!

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One of the less-reported details of Versace’s murder was the fact that he wasn’t the only victim. Well, there had been at least four other victims before this, but there was another victim in this incident. That white dove! A white dove was murdered right alongside Gianni Versace, and that is the only thing that made this tragedy even sadder. Well, also the fact that Versace’s shoes fell off.

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And then, in detail more graphic than any of us asked for, we watched as paramedics and doctors attempted to save a bullet-riddled Versace’s life. [Spoiler] They did not.

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The sequences detailing the aftermath were visually clever and wrenching, from watching the surgeons peel off their gloves and exit the room, leaving Versace’s body alone … to the autograph seekers who literally sopped up blood from his front steps in order to create a souvenir to sell. But my very favorite was the woman who arrived at the scene in full couture and began to WERK behind the news lady.

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Say what you will about her lack of propriety, but that lady had star quality.

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For his part Andrew Cunanan seemed downright giddy with what he’d done, stalking through town spying on TVs and smiling at newspaper headlines. These were not the reactions of a remorseful, sympathetic person, and you can quote me on that.

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Then somehow the episode got even BETTER? Because this was when Donatella Versace (Penélope Cruz) showed up to mourn, accuse, and succeed her brother in his business dealings, all with a barely understandable Italian accent. Seriously, Penélope Cruz is truly next-level. Hope she likes Emmys.

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Speaking of incredible: Did you guys know Ricky Martin can ACT? As Versace’s live-in boyfriend of 15 years, he sobbed and projected misery like a seasoned Shakespearean actor. Adding to this particular scene’s pathos, we were brutally reminded that in 1997 people were still not comfortable with (or even cognizant of) the existence of gay relationships.

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Even though the detectives were looking to investigate a murder, they seemed straight-up flummoxed by the fact that Versace had had male lovers. Worse, Donatella Versace decided that she didn’t want these details in the press, clearly believing that her brother’s homosexuality was a danger to their brand.

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Actually, even way, way worse, was the fact that Andrew Cunanan was already a known suspect in other murders, but the police had plainly not done much about it, in part due to his and the victims’ homosexuality. Yep, that was a thing back then. Crimes against gays were frequently back-burnered or ignored altogether. In this scene, a pawn shop owner (played by the majestic Cathy Moriarty) saw Cunanan’s face on TV and then angrily alerted cops the fact that she’d reported him days earlier as having sold something in her shop. Yet the cops did nothing! Ugh, the ’90s were really horrible in certain/most ways.

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But enough wallowing in the brutal realities of an unjust world — let’s talk more about Donatella! While obviously in mourning from the still-fresh murder, this episode made very clear that her business sense trumped all. Because Versace the company had been on the verge of going public, she now feared that power over the company would be taken from the family, so she and her other brother decided to keep it private. In my opinion this made for a good move, seeing as Versace is still sort of a thing these days. (Side note: I am not sure whether this miniseries will be reenacting Donatella’s Ice Bucket Challenge video, but here’s hoping there’s at least one episode devoted to it.)

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This episode was also full of tons of extremely good and witty visuals, and that’s all credit to Ryan Murphy’s directorial eye. There were a lot of clever and downright beautiful details in this episode, but I loved elderly orange speedo man watching calmly as the Miami SWAT Team descended upon Andrew Cunanan’s hotel room. What was going through his mind? What was he thinking about all this? Hopefully we’ll find out in the next episode.

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At the end of this episode Andrew Cunanan remained at large. A particularly filthy-looking Max Greenfield was found holing up in Cunanan’s room, so something tells me we’ll learn more about this guy. Cunanan himself had taken to roaming around Miami in a canary yellow polo shirt and matching hat, while grinning proudly at himself on the front pages of the local papers. It may have been a violent, inglorious, shameful way to achieve it, but this charlatan had really reached the next level.

“The Man Who Would Be Vogue” was quite simply one of the best first episodes of a show I’ve seen in a while. Relying on sweeping visuals over dialogue, and allowing gaudiness to exist beside sincerity, it gripped me right away. While we know this is not a happy story and it doesn’t end particularly well, it does feel as important and timely as ever, much like its predecessor The People v. O.J. Simpson. It remains to be seen whether this season will catch on with viewers and critics like that one did, but either way, it’s hard not to be grateful for something this special.

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story’ premiere recap: When doves die

Edgar Ramirez on playing Gianni Versace, fashion, and his all-time favorite Versace shirt

Edgar Ramirez stars as Gianni Versace in Ryan Murphy‘s newest FX production, The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story. The Venezuelan actor has starred in many Hollywood flicks, including Joy, The Girl on the Train, The Bourne Ultimatum, and Zero Dark Thirty — but playing the role of the late, revered Italian fashion designer was unlike playing any other.

I caught up with Ramirez after his Build Series interview in New York. Immediately, I noticed his impeccable, dapper style. The actor wore an olive suit by Italian label Brunello Cucinelli, a stylish checkered shirt by emerging New York designer R. Swiader, and shiny brown brogues by Aquatalia. Although he wasn’t wearing it at the time, Ramirez pointed out his favorite sartorial choice of the day — a clean, minimalist color-block coat by Honduran designer Carlos Campos. Clearly, the actor has some serious style swag.

One might think Ramirez’s fashion sense is in stark contrast to Versace’s bold classicist prints and pop culture-infused designs, but the actor is quick to point out that the two have more in common than you might think.

“He always had one element that always stood out. I relate more to that,” Ramirez tells Yahoo Lifestyle. “Even though Versace’s designs were grandiose, in reality when he was not at ‘his fashion show,’ at an event, or frankly in the public eye, his personal style was minimal, often wearing only black and white,” notes Ramirez.

For example, “Like today. It’s my shirt.” He proceeds to show me his triple-button closure at the collar of his mustard and black checkered shirt. If it didn’t have this small design detail, “I wouldn’t wear it.” As the saying goes, “God and the devil, they both live in the details.”

Although the actor was not wearing Versace at Build, “Almost all of Edgar’s costumes were Versace,” costume designer Lou Eyrich tells the New York Post.

But Eyrich had to rely on her creativity and a heavy dose of vintage sourcing to re-create the ’90s-era Versace family wardrobe, as she had to work without the cooperation of the Versace fashion house.

The Versace family recently released a statement to WWD saying the family “has not authorized nor has it in any way been involved in the TV series dedicated to the death of Gianni Versace” and that it is a “work of fiction.”

But of all the Versace fashion the actor did wear, which was his favorite? A vivid striped blue and gold baroque silk shirt he wore for the cover of Entertainment Weekly. “That blue was a Versace blue. It was so electrifying,” says Ramirez.

When we think of the Roman Empire, “We tend to relate it to washed-out statues … white palaces and white marble” due to wear over time. But in actuality, “the Roman Empire was bright and colorful. Everything was shiny, big, and loud. And Gianni basically rescued that.”  The designer created an entirely new fashion framework that embodied classicism and embraced Rome’s great art and architecture.

During Milan Fashion Week in 2017, Donatella Versace honored her brother’s legacy with an epic finale during the brand’s fashion show. She reintroduced many of Gianni’s iconic, baroque, pop-art, and Warholian designs and concluded with the five supermodels whose careers he helped define: Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen, Carla Bruni, and Claudia Schiffer.

There is no doubt Gianni Versace affected the landscape of the fashion industry in many ways. His fusion of pop culture, Roman art, celebrity, and sexuality all played into his legacy. The designer was also a pioneer of making the front row a celebrity mainstay. “We wouldn’t be invited to the first row of a fashion show if it weren’t for a culture that Gianni Versace created 20 years ago,” says Ramirez during his Build interview. He was the first to create this “mixture between celebrity, cinema, music, and this rock ’n’ roll approach to couture and high fashion.”

Versace was not just a designer, but also an innovator in fashion, a skilled tailor, and a craftsman. After his death, Donatella continued his fashion line, which rakes in more than $600 million annually, allowing for her brother’s fashion legacy to continue to thrive.

Although Ramirez is on to his next film projects, he still has a few mementos from set to remember Versace by — a pair of black slides emblazoned with classic Versace gold medusa heads and a key chain, both emblems of the designer that appear in the first episode.

Gianni Versace was only 50 when he was killed on his front doorstep in 1997. This marks the 20th anniversary of his death. The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story premieres tonight, Jan. 17, at 10 p.m. ET on FX.

Edgar Ramirez on playing Gianni Versace, fashion, and his all-time favorite Versace shirt

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story’ premiere recap: When doves die

Warning: This recap of “The Man Who Would Be Vogue” episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story contains spoilers.

The best part of Peak TV is how excellent television no longer has to appeal to everyone. Sure, we can discuss giant hits like The Walking Dead with total strangers, and grandma won’t stop talking about Breaking Bad. But increasingly — and often thanks to producer Ryan Murphy — mass audiences are not what the best shows aim for. About fourteen people watched last year’s best series (Twin Peaks) and just try bringing up Insecure at a dinner party. We’re not all watching the same great shows anymore, but man, what a time to be a fringe TV viewer.

This is to say that The Assassination of Gianni Versace, the stellar new entry of Murphy’s already perfect American Crime Story series, will be most appreciated by the chicest of bubbles. It’s gaudy, terrifying, campy, tragic, heartfelt, gorgeously filmed… And probably too specific in its milieu to excite a mainstream audience. But if the past 1.3 years taught us anything, it’s that bubbles may not always win elections, but damn is our art better. Definitely comment below if you disagree jk.

“The Man Who Would Be Vogue” was one of the most spellbinding and compelling (and timely!) episodes of television I’ve ever seen, and we should talk about it!

We began with a typical morning in Miami, particularly if you are a wealthy Italian designer at the top of his game in the mid-to-late ’90s.

This, friends, was Gianni Versace (Edgar Ramirez), and between his gilded beach palace and servants in black tennis shorts we could gather that he was pretty successful. Not so successful that he didn’t eat revolting honeydew melon for breakfast, but doing well enough by most standards.

By this point Versace was so famous that obese, pale midwesterners would wait outside his home begging for him to autograph old issues of Vogue. Now THAT is fame.

A few blocks away at the beach, a young man named Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss) was just finishing up screaming at the ocean. He had a big day ahead of him. He was ready to MURDER.

And in a wordless, artfully directed, heartbreaking sequence, Cunanan ran up and shot Versace right there on his front steps. Several times. In the face. In other words, this ended up being not that great of a morning for him. Probably a Top 5 worst morning, if we’re being honest.

We then flashed back to the first time Cunanan met Versace, at a gay dance club in San Francisco. Right off the bat (which is a baseball term and therefore probably not relevant to this scene) we learned that Cunanan’s ambitions to hang out with a famous man were outshined only by his ability to lie and exaggerate the details of his own life. Despite Versace’s initial reluctance to talk to this weirdo nobody, he was eventually intrigued by Cunanan’s claims of Italian heritage and other rich boy jazz. Cunanan was IN.

Except we then saw Cunanan replay the evening’s events to the skeptical straight couple he’d been living with, omitting certain details like how it’d been in a gay club (Cunanan was posing as straight to his roommates) and making it sound like Versace was picking HIM up. But I loved when the roommate dude looked at his wife and they rolled their eyes knowingly. Cunanan clearly loved to spin fanciful yarns, but it was also clear his friends were no longer believing his wild tales.

Like his college friend over here, who called him out for lying to everybody about not only his sexuality but also his ethnicity and social class. Except what he SHOULD have called Cunanan out for was his glasses that only attached to the bridge of his nose. What kind of Bond villain was Andrew Cunanan trying to dress as? Anyway, regardless of all this, he was verifiably invited to the opera that Versace had designed gowns for, and that meant he needed to HUSTLE if he wanted Versace to believe that he was knowledgable and worldly.

I am honestly not sure what those papery rectangle stacks are, but they appear to have ‘words’ on them and in this case Andrew Cunanan was reading them? I don’t know, ask an old person. (I’m 57.)

But yeah, Versace seemed to be the only person in the world NOT skeptical of this young, handsome liar. After the opera, as Cunanan literally basked in the spotlight while on stage, he told tales of growing up on Indonesian plantations and a Bentley-driving gay father. Perhaps Versace could tell this dude was making things up, but he seemed intrigued by the improv. Cheers to con artistry!

One of the less-reported details of Versace’s murder was the fact that he wasn’t the only victim. Well, there had been at least four other victims before this, but there was another victim in this incident. That white dove! A white dove was murdered right alongside Gianni Versace and that is the only thing that made this tragedy even sadder. Well, also the fact that Versace’s shoes fell off.

And then, in detail more graphic than any of us asked for, we watched as paramedics and doctors attempted to save a bullet-riddled Versace’s life. [Spoiler] They did not.

The sequences detailing the aftermath were visually clever and wrenching, from watching the surgeons peel off their gloves and exit the room, leaving Versace’s body alone… To the autograph seekers who literally sopped up blood from his front steps in order to create a souvenir to sell. But my very favorite was the woman who arrived at the scene in full couture and began to WERK behind the news lady.

Say what you will about her lack of propriety, but that lady had star quality.

For his part Andrew Cunanan seemed downright giddy with what he’d done, stalking through town spying on TVs and smiling at newspaper headlines. These were not the reactions of a remorseful, sympathetic person and you can quote me on that.

Then somehow the episode got even BETTER? Because this was when Donatella Versace (Penelope Cruz) showed up to mourn, accuse, and succeed her brother in his business dealings, all with a barely understandable Italian accent. Seriously, Penelope Cruz is truly next-level. Hope she likes Emmys.

Speaking of incredible: Did you guys know Ricky Martin can ACT? As Versace’s live-in boyfriend of 15 years, he sobbed and projected misery like a seasoned Shakespearean actor. Adding to this particular scene’s pathos, we were brutally reminded that in 1997 people were still not comfortable with (or even cognizant of) the existence of gay relationships.

Even though the detectives were looking to investigate a murder, they seemed straight-up flummoxed by the fact that Versace had had male lovers. Worse, Donatella Versace decided that she didn’t want these details in the press, clearly believing that her brother’s homosexuality was a danger to their brand.

Actually, even way, way worse, was the fact that Andrew Cunanan was already a known suspect in other murders, but the police had plainly not done much about it, in part due to his and the victims’ homosexuality. Yep, that was a thing back then. Crimes against gays were frequently back-burnered or ignored altogether. In this scene, a pawn shop owner (played by the majestic Cathy Moriarty) saw Cunanan’s face on TV and then angrily alerted cops the fact that she’d reported him days earlier as having sold something in her shop. Yet the cops did nothing! Ugh, the ’90s were really horrible in certain/most ways.

But enough wallowing the brutal realities of an unjust world, let’s talk more about Donatella! While obviously in mourning from the still-fresh murder, this episode made very clear that her business sense trumped all. Because Versace the company had been on the verge of going public, she now feared that power over the company would be taken from the family, so she and her other brother decided to keep it private. In my opinion this made for a good move, seeing as Versace is still sort of a thing these days. (Side note, I am not sure whether this miniseries will be re-enacting Donatella’s Ice Bucket Challenge video, but here’s hoping there’s at least one episode devoted to it.)

This episode was also full of tons of extremely good and witty visuals and that’s all credit to Ryan Murphy’s directorial eye. There were a lot of clever and downright beautiful details in this episode, but I loved elderly orange speedo man watching calmly as the Miami SWAT Team descended upon Andrew Cunanan’s hotel room. What was going through his mind? What was he thinking about all this? Hopefully we’ll find out in the next episode.

At the end of this episode Andrew Cunanan remained at large. A particularly filthy looking Max Greenfield was found holing up in Cunanan’s room, so something tells me we’ll learn more about this guy. Cunanan himself had taken to roaming around Miami in canary yellow Polo shirt and matching hat, while grinning proudly at himself on the front pages of the local papers. It may have been a violent, inglorious, shameful way to achieve it, but this charlatan had really reached the next level.

“The Man Who Would Be Vogue” was quite simply one of the best first-episodes of a show I’ve seen in a while. Relying on sweeping visuals over dialogue, and allowing gaudiness to exist beside sincerity, it gripped me right away. While we know this is not a happy story and it doesn’t end particularly well, it does feel as important and timely as ever, much like its predecessor The People v. O.J. Simpson. It remains to be seen whether this season will catch on with viewers and critics like that one did, but either way it’s hard not to be grateful for something this special.

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story’ premiere recap: When doves die

The Versace ‘American Crime Story’ is a chilling thriller

On July 15, 1997, fashion designer Gianni Versace was just coming back to his Miami home after a morning walk when he was shot to death on the street by Andrew Cunanan, a petty thief, con man, and, it turned out, a serial killer — Versace was only his biggest-name victim. This is the subject of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, the new miniseries that starts Wednesday night on FX. It’s another big-canvas, pop-culture epic overseen by producer-director-writer Ryan Murphy, and features an exceptional performance by one of the performers Murphy made into a star on Glee: Darren Criss, as a chilling Cunanan.

At the start, the production goes back and forth between the story of Versace (played with skill and a notable physical resemblance by Edgar Ramirez), seen initially at the height of his worldwide fashion fame, and Cunanan, angry and miserable, living an impoverished street life. It’s fun to see Penélope Cruz do such a good job of inhabiting the platinum-blond hair and pouty poker-face of Versace’s sister, Donatella, and Ricky Martin exudes a lot of smooth charm as Antonio D’Amico, Versace’s significant other. As a fashion heathen, I appreciated the way Murphy and novelist Tom Rob Smith (adapting Maureen Orth’s book Vulgar Favors) vividly sketch the reasons Versace was considered such an innovative designer, and as the nine-part series proceeds, there are occasional jumps back in time for us to witness Versace’s youth and the hard work that went into building his empire.

The real focus of Assassination, however, is on the assassin. The majority of this season’s American Crime Story (following the Emmy-winning The People v. O.J. Simpson) is a deep exploration of Cunanan. A charming gay man who used his sexuality to both attract and exploit, the Cunanan as presented by Murphy and Smith is a tortured soul for whom we cannot ultimately feel much sympathy. For long stretches, Versace disappears from the production so that we can meet some of Cunanan’s other victims, such as Cody Fern’s fledgling architect David Madson, and Finn Wittrock’s poignant take on Navy veteran Jeff Trail; their stories are told with nearly the same degree of thoroughness as Versace’s.

Along the way, Murphy and company tell a cultural and political history of gay strife, from the AIDS epidemic to the fight for gay marriage to the military’s “don’t ask, don’t tell” policy. The fractured narrative timeline — the story is told in reverse chronological order, jumping back and forth, here and there, across the trail of Cunanan’s various crimes — can sometimes seem gratuitously confusing, but once you get used to its rhythm, this American Crime Story has an irresistible pull.

Versace is filled with excellent smaller performances, such as New Girl’s Max Greenfield, so fine as a slimy South Beach hustler who briefly partners up with Cunanan, and M*A*S*H’s Mike Farrell, superb as Cunanan’s wealthy older victim Lee Miglin, portrayed here as man pathetically grateful for Andrew’s condescending attentions. With the Simpson miniseries and now Versace, it may be that Murphy has found his true métier: The true-crime genre anchors his sometimes wild flights of fancy to enough solid facts to give his lyricism weight — dramatic gravitas.

The Versace ‘American Crime Story’ is a chilling thriller

Winter TV Preview: The scoop on 13 new shows

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story’ (FX, Jan. 17 at 10 p.m.)

The one-sentence pitch: “Like it’s titled, it’s about the murder of Gianni Versace, but what the show is really about is what leads up to that murder,” says ACS executive producer Brad Simpson. “And most people who know about Versace know he was murdered by Andrew Cunanan, but they probably don’t know that he was the final victim in a killing spree.”

What to expect: “This season is a very different flavor. It’s a different mood, it’s a different type of crime, and a different type of storytelling,” Simpson says of the new season, which unfolds Cunanan’s crime in a nonlinear fashion, beginning with Versace’s murder and revealing Cunanan’s other victims in reverse chronological order. “We felt like it was important to not have the audience spend eight episodes waiting for that murder to happen, so we get right to the most famous murder. Then … we’ve all seen stories of the evolution of a killer, where you follow someone as they commit their first murder, climaxing with something bigger. We thought it was more interesting to do it in reverse, tell you the whole story in reverse, go victim by victim into the past and really try to understand not just who these other victims were but also why [Cunanan] ended up on this path.”

Glee-ful cast: Penelope Cruz as Donatella Versace, Edgar Ramirez as Gianni, Ricky Martin as Versace’s boyfriend Antonio, as well as memorable performances from Judith Light, Finn Wittrock, Dascha Polanco, Mike Farrell, Max Greenfield, and newcomer Cody Fern pepper the season, but it’s singer and Glee alum Darren Criss, as Cunanan, who is most mesmerizing as the undeniably charming, and disturbed, serial killer. “Versace and Andrew Cunanan were both born into circumstances in which they were gay men with ambition, with taste, and who people genuinely liked,” Simpson says. “Andrew was very well-liked until a certain age. … We wanted to explore what sets one off on the path to becoming this great creator, and what sets the other on the path to being this destroyer.” — KP

Winter TV Preview: The scoop on 13 new shows