‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story’ premiere recap: When doves die

Warning: This recap of “The Man Who Would Be Vogue” episode of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story contains spoilers.

The best part of Peak TV is how excellent television no longer has to appeal to everyone. Sure, we can discuss giant hits like The Walking Dead with total strangers, and grandma won’t stop talking about Breaking Bad. But increasingly — and often thanks to producer Ryan Murphy — mass audiences are not what the best shows aim for. About fourteen people watched last year’s best series (Twin Peaks) and just try bringing up Insecure at a dinner party. We’re not all watching the same great shows anymore, but man, what a time to be a fringe TV viewer.

This is to say that The Assassination of Gianni Versace, the stellar new entry of Murphy’s already perfect American Crime Story series, will be most appreciated by the chicest of bubbles. It’s gaudy, terrifying, campy, tragic, heartfelt, gorgeously filmed… And probably too specific in its milieu to excite a mainstream audience. But if the past 1.3 years taught us anything, it’s that bubbles may not always win elections, but damn is our art better. Definitely comment below if you disagree jk.

“The Man Who Would Be Vogue” was one of the most spellbinding and compelling (and timely!) episodes of television I’ve ever seen, and we should talk about it!

We began with a typical morning in Miami, particularly if you are a wealthy Italian designer at the top of his game in the mid-to-late ’90s.

This, friends, was Gianni Versace (Edgar Ramirez), and between his gilded beach palace and servants in black tennis shorts we could gather that he was pretty successful. Not so successful that he didn’t eat revolting honeydew melon for breakfast, but doing well enough by most standards.

By this point Versace was so famous that obese, pale midwesterners would wait outside his home begging for him to autograph old issues of Vogue. Now THAT is fame.

A few blocks away at the beach, a young man named Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss) was just finishing up screaming at the ocean. He had a big day ahead of him. He was ready to MURDER.

And in a wordless, artfully directed, heartbreaking sequence, Cunanan ran up and shot Versace right there on his front steps. Several times. In the face. In other words, this ended up being not that great of a morning for him. Probably a Top 5 worst morning, if we’re being honest.

We then flashed back to the first time Cunanan met Versace, at a gay dance club in San Francisco. Right off the bat (which is a baseball term and therefore probably not relevant to this scene) we learned that Cunanan’s ambitions to hang out with a famous man were outshined only by his ability to lie and exaggerate the details of his own life. Despite Versace’s initial reluctance to talk to this weirdo nobody, he was eventually intrigued by Cunanan’s claims of Italian heritage and other rich boy jazz. Cunanan was IN.

Except we then saw Cunanan replay the evening’s events to the skeptical straight couple he’d been living with, omitting certain details like how it’d been in a gay club (Cunanan was posing as straight to his roommates) and making it sound like Versace was picking HIM up. But I loved when the roommate dude looked at his wife and they rolled their eyes knowingly. Cunanan clearly loved to spin fanciful yarns, but it was also clear his friends were no longer believing his wild tales.

Like his college friend over here, who called him out for lying to everybody about not only his sexuality but also his ethnicity and social class. Except what he SHOULD have called Cunanan out for was his glasses that only attached to the bridge of his nose. What kind of Bond villain was Andrew Cunanan trying to dress as? Anyway, regardless of all this, he was verifiably invited to the opera that Versace had designed gowns for, and that meant he needed to HUSTLE if he wanted Versace to believe that he was knowledgable and worldly.

I am honestly not sure what those papery rectangle stacks are, but they appear to have ‘words’ on them and in this case Andrew Cunanan was reading them? I don’t know, ask an old person. (I’m 57.)

But yeah, Versace seemed to be the only person in the world NOT skeptical of this young, handsome liar. After the opera, as Cunanan literally basked in the spotlight while on stage, he told tales of growing up on Indonesian plantations and a Bentley-driving gay father. Perhaps Versace could tell this dude was making things up, but he seemed intrigued by the improv. Cheers to con artistry!

One of the less-reported details of Versace’s murder was the fact that he wasn’t the only victim. Well, there had been at least four other victims before this, but there was another victim in this incident. That white dove! A white dove was murdered right alongside Gianni Versace and that is the only thing that made this tragedy even sadder. Well, also the fact that Versace’s shoes fell off.

And then, in detail more graphic than any of us asked for, we watched as paramedics and doctors attempted to save a bullet-riddled Versace’s life. [Spoiler] They did not.

The sequences detailing the aftermath were visually clever and wrenching, from watching the surgeons peel off their gloves and exit the room, leaving Versace’s body alone… To the autograph seekers who literally sopped up blood from his front steps in order to create a souvenir to sell. But my very favorite was the woman who arrived at the scene in full couture and began to WERK behind the news lady.

Say what you will about her lack of propriety, but that lady had star quality.

For his part Andrew Cunanan seemed downright giddy with what he’d done, stalking through town spying on TVs and smiling at newspaper headlines. These were not the reactions of a remorseful, sympathetic person and you can quote me on that.

Then somehow the episode got even BETTER? Because this was when Donatella Versace (Penelope Cruz) showed up to mourn, accuse, and succeed her brother in his business dealings, all with a barely understandable Italian accent. Seriously, Penelope Cruz is truly next-level. Hope she likes Emmys.

Speaking of incredible: Did you guys know Ricky Martin can ACT? As Versace’s live-in boyfriend of 15 years, he sobbed and projected misery like a seasoned Shakespearean actor. Adding to this particular scene’s pathos, we were brutally reminded that in 1997 people were still not comfortable with (or even cognizant of) the existence of gay relationships.

Even though the detectives were looking to investigate a murder, they seemed straight-up flummoxed by the fact that Versace had had male lovers. Worse, Donatella Versace decided that she didn’t want these details in the press, clearly believing that her brother’s homosexuality was a danger to their brand.

Actually, even way, way worse, was the fact that Andrew Cunanan was already a known suspect in other murders, but the police had plainly not done much about it, in part due to his and the victims’ homosexuality. Yep, that was a thing back then. Crimes against gays were frequently back-burnered or ignored altogether. In this scene, a pawn shop owner (played by the majestic Cathy Moriarty) saw Cunanan’s face on TV and then angrily alerted cops the fact that she’d reported him days earlier as having sold something in her shop. Yet the cops did nothing! Ugh, the ’90s were really horrible in certain/most ways.

But enough wallowing the brutal realities of an unjust world, let’s talk more about Donatella! While obviously in mourning from the still-fresh murder, this episode made very clear that her business sense trumped all. Because Versace the company had been on the verge of going public, she now feared that power over the company would be taken from the family, so she and her other brother decided to keep it private. In my opinion this made for a good move, seeing as Versace is still sort of a thing these days. (Side note, I am not sure whether this miniseries will be re-enacting Donatella’s Ice Bucket Challenge video, but here’s hoping there’s at least one episode devoted to it.)

This episode was also full of tons of extremely good and witty visuals and that’s all credit to Ryan Murphy’s directorial eye. There were a lot of clever and downright beautiful details in this episode, but I loved elderly orange speedo man watching calmly as the Miami SWAT Team descended upon Andrew Cunanan’s hotel room. What was going through his mind? What was he thinking about all this? Hopefully we’ll find out in the next episode.

At the end of this episode Andrew Cunanan remained at large. A particularly filthy looking Max Greenfield was found holing up in Cunanan’s room, so something tells me we’ll learn more about this guy. Cunanan himself had taken to roaming around Miami in canary yellow Polo shirt and matching hat, while grinning proudly at himself on the front pages of the local papers. It may have been a violent, inglorious, shameful way to achieve it, but this charlatan had really reached the next level.

“The Man Who Would Be Vogue” was quite simply one of the best first-episodes of a show I’ve seen in a while. Relying on sweeping visuals over dialogue, and allowing gaudiness to exist beside sincerity, it gripped me right away. While we know this is not a happy story and it doesn’t end particularly well, it does feel as important and timely as ever, much like its predecessor The People v. O.J. Simpson. It remains to be seen whether this season will catch on with viewers and critics like that one did, but either way it’s hard not to be grateful for something this special.

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story’ premiere recap: When doves die

Darren Criss compares Versace killer Andrew Cunanan to an Instagrammer

There are a ton of great performances in FX’s The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story but perhaps the most revelatory is Darren Criss as serial killer Andrew Cunanan.

Previously best known for the sweet, Katy Perry-singing Warbler Blaine Anderson on Glee, Criss goes fully over to the dark side as Cunanan, a sociopath who killed five men in 1997, including fashion designer Gianni Versace (Edgar Ramirez).

EW talked to Criss about Cunanan, reuniting with Glee co-creator Ryan Murphy, and the show’s connection to our social media culture.

ENTERTAINMENT WEEKLY: Were you at all nervous stepping into this? It’s the biggest and most complicated role you’ve tackled.

DARREN CRISS: There were no nerves whatsoever. This was the most exciting, I-can’t-wait-to-do-this experience I’ve ever had. This is an opportunity I’ve been waiting and working my entire life for… This is a role of a lifetime. I’m dripping with gratitude and overwhelmed. I’m so fully aware that this is not something that comes around often. So that’s what it felt like every day. There’s not nervousness or trepidation or fear. I sort of always loved things that look to other people like they’re hard to take on. I’m not saying anything is easy.

There’s so many things about this that are great. Not only is it a great role but it’s a fantastic story with a lot of fantastic weight that I really think sheds light on a lot of things that haven’t been able to be exposed.

So no, I wasn’t nervous at all. I think people have this fixation with dark things — they think they’re scary or hard. Maybe I’m just a dark person. I just find that all dark, scary, conventionally negative things come from pretty relatable places: fear, embarrassment, ambition, and disappointment.

You’re thinking about the emotions that bare them. It doesn’t come home to me. It doesn’t make me afraid of Andrew. It doesn’t make me love him or hate him any less. I get disappointed by him. My heart breaks for him, mainly because of all the good things we get to see about him.

On a professional level, it’s the excitement of being with people that I love working with within a story I think is really important and really matters. On a personal, role level, it’s so nice to be in something that has so many layers and has an opportunity to challenge audiences senses of empathy. Being able to be a part of that is like being able to go to do the most invigorating work one can do.

How did you get inside the character of Andrew? He’s so complicated and mysterious. What was the preparation?

Because he’s all over the place, it’s kind of an indoor safety net for me. I think because he’s a person who disassociates and compartmentalizes, I could likewise do that going to work or coming home. Also when you go to a certain place, he would turn on a dime and that would help me. There’s not a whole lot of preparation you can do. The people who knew him only knew one side of him. This is actually an advantage to me that this isn’t a person people are familiar with. It’s this sort of alibi. The only thing you can really do is not so much preparation but being available to all emotions at all times which I think is probably the most important thing. At any point, he’s ready to fire off in any direction. You can’t really prepare for that.

I did as much research as humanly possible. There’s not a whole lot to go on. At the end of the day, there’s the Andrew who walks and talks on this Earth. There’s the Andrew that people experienced. Then there’s this person who’s my guiding light, which is the person on this page. I did as much homework as possible. You just have to be available on the day and just play each scene.

What was the biggest challenge of this?

I really relate to Andrew mainly because I got to live with him in a different capacity. I had to live with this young man. Living with him as a teenager and a young man. We all remember what it is to want to be liked or stand out or use whatever wiles you have to assert yourself or not assert yourself. All these things that are extremely relatable that I really do relate to him and we have more similarities than that. Obviously, the things that make us different are big but I think they’re few in number.

Ryan Murphy launched your career in so many ways. What was it like working with him this time? He was adamant you play this role.

This was the first time I got to work with Ryan in a real sense as far as us getting in the kitchen and getting our hands dirty and really working on the material. By the time I got to Glee, he wasn’t really directing and he didn’t direct me on American Horror Story [Criss guest-starred on AHS: Hotel]. I never worked directly with him. We’ve been friends obviously as my boss and seen him at events and parties and stuff and he’s always been a great supporter of me. But we never had really made something like this together. It was cool for me to see.

Ryan is a very prolific guy and he’s created this whole brand around himself and that’s the guy I knew and would have rosé with. But seeing him actually at the helm, creating this world, doing what he does best is really cool. It’s really inspiring. It was really a thrill to work with someone in that capacity. Actors are only as good as the moments they get and he’s given me quite an extraordinary moment.

It could easily have veered into camp or gone over the top. But you all keep it very human and grounded.

If that’s what came out, great because I would like to think all of us were shooting for that. You always want something to be as grounded as possible. My interest from day one was showing the humanity of Andrew and that’s something everyone has been interested in from day one. If you just have a cut and dry good guy/bad guy, that’s not interesting. We can’t just vilify Andrew and then what’s the point of following this person if we’re not going to mess with her our sense of relatability to a conventional “villain.” We have to humanize him — that’s the only route to get to know him on a larger level.

I’m really excited to see a lot of the Ricky [Martin], Edgar, and Penelope [Cruz] stuff because I was not there for any of that. It was like shooting two completely different shows. I have no idea how it’s going to play out. I can’t wait to see the parallels.

What do you want people to take away from this?

I really want people to question their sense of empathy and really try and figure out at one point this could have been their own selves. It’s not about Andrew specifically and more people like Andrew: people who idolize excess and how they obsess over the things they don’t have and it ultimately destroys them and the dangers of that. Andrew is somebody that curated his image very well, like with doctoral accuracy, surgical accuracy. He really wants to make sure he was viewed a certain way by certain people. It’s not too dissimilar with how many of us filter our own lives now. I’m talking in extremes here but it can be related to the social media world with how we literally filter our lives and we’re obsessed that people perceive us in a certain way. It’s a totally natural thing but it’s that other side of the coin: looking at other people and what they have. People always say, “I hate going on social media when you’re single and seeing people in love and leading happy lives.” There’s a difference between letting that get you a little bummed and having it drive you truly mad and letting what you do not have not only destroy yourself but other people.

I think people will relate to that anguish and what it feels like to want to have your image of yourself be as fantastic and larger than life as possible, even if it is false. At what point is it a crime to want to embellish your life. I think he was the pre-Instagram filter Instagrammer. He filtered his own life. The thing people said about him was that he was a storyteller. He wanted people to think a certain way of him. That to me is less devious and more misguided and heartbreaking. I don’t get mad at Andrew — my heart breaks for him. The enormous potential that someone so creative and charismatic put his energies in a totally misguided place: that’s the stuff that really interests me.

Darren Criss compares Versace killer Andrew Cunanan to an Instagrammer

‘American Crime Story: Versace’ review: A fractured, yet superb mini-series

FX’s mini-series, from Ryan Murphy and writer Tom Rob Smith is another installment of the American Crime Story series. Following in the footsteps of its predecessor, the title refers to the event that kicks off the story. Also like it’s predecessor, it attempts to understand the culture around the life of one complicated man.

One who operates behind the scenes. One who travels the country, shows his face, clear as day to everyone around him. But unbeknownst to the passerby, they only saw the mask he chose to wear that day.

No, this is not a story of Gianni Versace. It is not an exploration into the world of high fashion or what each gown meant to his career. At times those elements are touched upon, but they do not drive the story. They are not meant to make the viewer feel more sympathy for the Versace family.

Instead, the second season of American Crime Story shifts its attention. In fact, it shifts its attention quite a few times. Each episode is like looking through a turn of a kaleidoscope.

The same scattered pieces rearrange to create a new version of what we already know. There is the police procedural, the familial loss of a high-profile family and what it does to the people behind the headlines.

Then there are the larger diversions into the stories of those we don’t know.

Stories of a failing marriage between Home Shopping Network royalty, Marilyn (played by the incomparable, Judith Light) and her husband Lee Miglin’s closeted affairs. There’s a trip back to Cunanan’s youth, where, I’d argue, the series finally begins to tap into something extraordinary.

But these small vignettes, while they may seem disjointed, are critical to the mini-series. They don’t make you feel for the murderer. Nor do they let you get to know the victims (Versace included).

They each give a flash of the world in which Cunanan grew up. How it changes as he begins to navigate it as a young adult. And how they all ultimately connect Cunanan’s imagined universe to the reality of shooting Versace on the steps of his home.

But none of the above paint a complete picture of what Murphy and company could have done with either more time or deeper focus.

Instead, it winds up being an examination trapped by its source material and the headlines.

However, while watching the series, you never feel at a loss. And that is largely due to Darren Criss.

The episodes are a playground for the actor. He is able to find a new way to fit into each of them. He’s sharply charming, seductive, and off-putting all at once. With a subtle shift in his facial expression he flips from the friend you always want around to the person you never want to see again.

And while he plays one man, Andrew Cunanan, Criss plays the many facets of Cunanan’s life with such attention that you’re seeing a different man each time he is on screen.

And when things are going Cunanan’s way, Criss shines. You’ll relish the moments where he exudes freedom and confidence when he dominates his counterparts on screen. And you’ll cringe at the moments where a lie slips, or when he carries out the grittier parts of the murders. And it’s not because you come to understand Cunanan.

In fact, I’d argue, in the eight episodes, you learn next to nothing about him.

A personal aside about Darren Criss’ involvement. For anyone who has followed Criss’s career, before, during, and after Glee, his scene stealing performances will not come as a shock.

Criss brings a level of passion to projects that speaks volumes in silence and demands reverence when he speaks (or sings). His music career, his Broadway performances, and, yes, even Glee are only the tip of the iceberg for what Criss brings to Andrew Cunanan.

There is no shortage of knockout performances surrounding Criss’s renaissance role.

Édgar Ramírez’s Gianni Versace is so captivating, I’d love to watch an “approved” Versace documentary with him revisiting the title role. Same goes for Ricky Martin’s stint as Versace’s partner, Antonio D’Amico.

Regardless of the chatter surrounding the validity of the events the performances portray, it does not deter from the palpable emotion each actor brings to the table.

If you’re looking for The People Vs O.J. Simpson replica, you’re out of luck. The same goes for those seeking the life and times of Gianni Versace. I’ll push it even further to say that you will not get the police investigation driven hunt for a serial killer.

What are you left with?

A superb, albeit fractured, mini-series. In spite of its glaring flaws, it’s bound to be a hit.

‘American Crime Story: Versace’ review: A fractured, yet superb mini-series

‘Assassination of Gianni Versace’: How Julia Roberts helped Penelope Cruz get cast as Donatella

Julia Roberts, Ryan Murphy and a pivotally placed rock all led to Penelope Cruz being cast on tonight’s The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story.

Cruz is riveting as Gianni’s younger sister Donatella on the FX miniseries and established a rapport with executive producer Ryan Murphy on the set of 2010’s Eat, Pray, Love, the movie directed by Murphy and starring Roberts and Cruz’s husband, Javier Bardem.

“I think she came on set on one on the worst shooting days I’ve had in my life and sat next to me on a rock smelling like talcum powder and perfume and was so polite,” Murphy revealed to EW on the Miami set of Versace in May. “I always thought my first impression she must think I’m insane. We had a weird day once where we were on a yacht with Julia Roberts. When I called her on the phone, she was instantly interested because she had never done anything like that. She had never done American television. She said ‘I’m afraid to do this so I think that’s why I should do it.‘”

‘Assassination of Gianni Versace’: How Julia Roberts helped Penelope Cruz get cast as Donatella

Review: The Assassination of Gianni Versace Is a ‘Juicy Saga’ That Explores Celebrity Obsession

On July 15, 1997, one of the 20th century’s most perversely awful convergences of fate occurred in Miami’s South Beach: Standing outside his mansion, superstar designer Gianni Versace was shot to death by Andrew Cunanan, a young man who’d recently achieved his own ghastly celebrity as a serial killer on the lam.

Titled The Assassination of Gianni Versace, it’s a fitting subject for season 2 of Ryan Murphy’s American Crime Story. The show’s first season, The People v. O.J. Simpson, elevated rubbernecking to an art. This, too, is a juicy saga, both outrageous and tragic: Cunanan’s murderous, three-month spree was senseless, sensational and scary — he all but rampaged across the headlines — and his suicide as authorities closed in left fundamental questions about his motives and his psychology unresolved.

This Crime Story’s power and significance, though, arise less from violent suspense (which it has) than its nuanced sensitivity to the fact that the murderer and most of his victims, Versace (Édgar Ramírez) included, were gay. Assassination operates like an enormous tuning fork that vibrates in response to the waves of tension that undermined gay existence across America in the 1990s.

Does the show go so far as to suggest that Cunanan, like Matt Damon in the 1999 movie The Talented Mr. Ripley, became a cold-blooded killer because of homophobia? Well, no. But this was still an era in which the acceptance of gay identity, internally and outwardly, was a fraught, paranoid business.

The closet was not an incubator of good mental health.

However, let’s return to the more exciting topic of violent suspense.

Assassination, based on Maureen Orth’s Vulgar Favors, oscillates between the luxe and the gory, but its nine episodes (eight of which were made available for preview) naturally focus more on Cunanan (Glees Darren Criss). If Cunanan were somehow able to be resurrected today, he might very well post his murders on Instagram under the insane notion that he was some kind of influencer — he was obsessed with celebrity media, and seems to have wall-papered his demented mind with images of fashion magazines, Rodeo Drive brands and A-list celebrities.

But romantic delusion (and disillusionment) may have been what triggered his killings: When the man Cunanan considered love of his life, architect David Madson (Cody Fern), didn’t reciprocate his feelings, he fixated on a mutual friend, Jeffrey Trail (Finn Wittrock), a former Navy lieutenant, as his rival and obstacle. Both Madson and Trail ended up dead, the first by gunshot and the second by claw hammer.

Assassination slowly works backward from the Versace murder, Cunanan’s fifth and final killing. Episode 8 even stretches all the way back to Cunanan and Versace’s boyhoods in Italy and on the West Coast, respectively. We have little Gianni, whose dressmaker mother respects and encourages his designing talent, and little Andrew, whose Filipino father, a fraudulent stockbroker, spoonfeeds him lies about wealth and privilege. Gianni sketches. Andrew reads Brideshead Revisited and chooses “Après moi, le dèluge” (“After me, the deluge”) as a quotation for the high-school yearbook. Gianni, hard-working and blessed with genius, establishes a world-recognized label. Andrew, good-looking and glibly sophisticated, becomes a gigolo to some very rich sugar daddies in San Diego.

Generally, though, being a kept man is not much better than being a kept dairy product — the expiration date comes soon. And so it happened with Cunanan.

Unloved, unsuccessful and increasingly untethered, was he jealous of Versace? Possibly. That would make this something like a serial killer’s Amadeus, with Cunanan as an especially crazed Salieri to Versace’s Mozart.

Still, none of this makes Cunanan comprehensible or, when all is said and done, pitiable. Otherwise, this might be In Cold Blood for fashionistas.

That said, it’s hard to gauge how well Criss’s performance works in such a tricky, diabolical role. He bears a striking physical resemblance to Cunanan, but he hasn’t been directed in a way that suggests the profoundly ambiguous core — admittedly, an oxymoron — of this man who could be both a smooth, adept dissembler and, as a killer, such a blundering, bloody improviser. To say that the surest approach to a character like this is sick humor — Christian Bale in American Psycho or even Kathleen Turner in Serial Mom — doesn’t mean it’s always the right way.

What places this Cunanan in the show’s broader context, and rather ingeniously, is his intuition of how he functions as a gay man, constantly calculating how much of himself he can safely risk revealing — how much he can get away with not as psychopath, but as a man. Pressing David Madson to be his accomplice in disposing of Jeff Trail’s body, he tells him not to call the police: “They hate us, they’ve always hated us. You’re a f–.”

We’re also reminded, painfully so, that Versace’s decision to come out of the closet with an interview in The Advocate had the potential to ruin his business (according to Orth, he was HIV-positive). Trail leaves the Navy in despair — here, we see him come close to hanging himself — because of its brutal, institutional bigotry. The FBI, questioning Versace’s lover Antonio D’Amico (Ricky Martin) after the murder, can’t quite grasp what a gay man’s “partner” would be. Even the old sugar daddies seem wary of anything outside their rich but circumscribed circle.

It’s a long way here from here to Call Me by Your Name.

Review: The Assassination of Gianni Versace Is a ‘Juicy Saga’ That Explores Celebrity Obsession

‘American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ transcends the murder show genre by diving deep into the lives of the victims, and 90s gay culture

  • “American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace” is not what its subtitle suggests.
  • Instead, the murder of Gianni Versace in 1997 serves as a starting point into the story of his killer, Andrew Cuanan.
  • The show is a necessary and poignant examination of gay culture in the 90s.
  • Unlike other murder shows, it focuses on the lives of Cuanan’s victims, beyond the most famous one.
  • Darren Criss, Penelope Cruz, and Ricky Martin are excellent.

Want to learn about Gianni Versace, revolutionary fashion designer and gay icon? Looking for an in-depth, inside look at his July 1997 murder in Miami? Look somewhere else. Because while the title implies this is exactly what “American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace” is about, that’s only the starting point.

The series does give us a glimpse of Versace’s life — both his relationship with his long-time partner, Antonio D’Amico, and with his sister, Donatella (Penelope Cruz) — but the series also looks way beyond that, and is so much better for taking the risk.

Of all the TV that’s out there, and I know it’s overwhelming, this is a show you should set aside some time to watch.

The first season of “American Crime Story,” which premiered to critical acclaim in early 2016, followed the 1995 O.J. Simpson trial. It went on to win 9 Emmy Awards, including best limited series and best actress in a limited series for Sarah Paulson, who played prosecutor Marcia Clark. “The People vs O.J. Simpson” was inventive in the way it was told, with episodes not just from the perspectives of key players like O.J., the defense, and the prosecutors, but also the jurors.

Still, the season’s glaring flaw was that, like a lot of fiction and nonfiction work surrounding the O.J. case, the victims, Nicole Brown and Ron Goldman, were still just catalysts for a larger story.

But “Versace” recognized that flaw and made a show about the origins of a killer while focusing on all of his victims. The result is a fascinating examination of class, sexuality, and gay culture in the 90s.

The series starts with the assassination of Gianni Versace (Edgar Ramirez) at the hands of Andrew Cuanan (Darren Criss). From then on, Versace serves as a side character and a parallel to Cuanan.

Based on Maureen Orth’s book “Vulgar Favors: Andrew Cuanan, Gianni Versace and the Largest Failed Manhunt in U.S. History,” the series goes beyond its subtitle and tells a story that only a bold, visionary storyteller like executive producer and co-creator Ryan Murphy could tell in such a compelling, thoughtful, and colorful (literally and figuratively) way.

The series follows Cuanan on his journey of seducing wealthy men, becoming a part of their lives — and making a living off of them — then ultimately murdering them, brutally. Then, on to the next one. But the twist is that the story is told backwards, starting with the murder of Versace, and going backwards until, by the end of the season, we finally get a glimpse of Cuanan’s first crimes, which started with his complicated relationship with his father.

In the series’ stand-out episode (FX made 8 episodes of 9 available to the press), Judith Light guest stars as the conflicted wife of one of Cuanan’s victims: 72 year old Lee Miglin, a Chicago real-estate developer who was found dead in his home, bound with duct tape. Miglin’s wife goes out of her way to keep the news that her husband was murdered by a gay lover quiet, demonstrating that not so long ago, being gay was something most people wanted absolutely nothing to do with. The episode’s focus on what Light’s character goes through while finding out the truth about her husband — and what to do with it — separates this murder show from others before it, by not only showing the lives of the victims, but their loved ones as well.

The most captivating element of Cuanan’s story, as told in “Versace,” is the “what if.” If the detectives responsible for finding Cuanan hadn’t been blinded by gay stereotypes, maybe they would have stopped him before he killed more people, including Versace. Versace and his partner Antonio (played by a well-cast, natural Ricky Martin of “Livin La Vida Loca” fame) would have also led very different lives in a more accepting culture. And Donatella, too, whose disappointment in her brother’s lack of a leaving behind an heir for their fashion brand is the conflict that drives their story throughout the season.

The biggest surprise is also the best part of “Versace”: its star, Darren Criss. In his creepy and careful performance, Criss proves that he’s so much more than the performer I, and I’m sure many, assumed he was. Starting his film and television career on “Glee” as Blaine Anderson, a very mature high school student who belts Katy Perry songs at every moment possible, and venturing not much further from that in theater productions like “How to Succeed In Business Without Really Trying” and “Hedwig and the Angry Inch,” Criss’ transformative performance is one of those rare roles where you won’t be able to imagine anyone else but him playing it.

‘American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ transcends the murder show genre by diving deep into the lives of the victims, and 90s gay culture

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ Writer On Why Equality Means More Complicated Gay Villains

If the first time you ever heard the name “Versace” was in “Showgirls,” know that you might have missed a key layer of meaning behind the joke.

In the 1995 Paul Verhoeven film, young stripper Nomi (Elizabeth Berkeley) finds herself with some extra cash, so she buys a tight short dress from a Versace shop on the Las Vegas strip. You might think that the point of the bit is that Nomi reveals her trashy roots when she pronounces the name of the brand as “Ver-sase,” as opposed to its proper pronunciation of “Ver-sa-che.”

But according to showrunner Tom Rob Smith, it goes far deeper than that. “It’s not that someone classy doesn’t know it’s ‘Ver-sa-che,‘” he told IndieWire. “Because that person wouldn’t be wearing Versace.”

Instead, the point is that an unclassy person not only doesn’t know how to say “Versace,” but would actively chose to buy a dress from his label. “And that’s the unfairness of it, because actually, I mean, his outfits were extraordinary,” Smith said. “He was adding sex, that’s true. But he was so skillful. I think it’s the misogyny, actually, about it, that, you know, if you add sex to a woman’s dress, that makes it not classy. I don’t know quite where that logic comes from.”

It speaks to just one of the underreported elements of Gianni Versace’s life that fascinates in this new installment of “American Crime Story.” As guided by Smith — a UK native who came to the attention of “ACS” producers Brad Simpson and Nina Jacobson after his critically acclaimed 2015 miniseries “London Spy” — the show digs into two lives: Versace (Edgar Ramirez), the designer behind some of the most daring fashion of the 1990s, and Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss), the man who killed him.

The show’s split focus means that there are a lot of competing elements in the first season, but one ongoing theme is the idea that the public perception of who Versace was has little relationship with the truth.

“His rise was very neat and tidy,” Smith said. “He started in Calabria, he went to Milan, and conquered the world from there. And it was just a series of steps… Just the most tenacious, driven, brilliant, out of the box thinking. Combining fabrics that have never been combined before. Combining materials that have never been combined before. Fearless of making a mistake. He would career off in one direction and then pull back another, and you fall in love with him.”

But Smith wasn’t in love with Versace before he started working on the series. “I don’t think I had a clear perception of him. I think, in a weird way, the perception was of the cliches,” he said. “Of his clothes and the stereotypes around his clothes, which are unfair and which have overwhelmed his name in a way that is sad. I don’t know quite whether he’s been understood. I think there’s a really interesting case to do a reconsideration of his life and his work.”

It’s a dark-hued tale due to Cunanan’s murder spree, in an era when so many stories featuring gay characters end up featuring a lot of death. But that’s something that Smith felt wasn’t just essential to “Versace” as a narrative, but also the general progression of gay-themed narratives.

“I write thrillers. And in thrillers, someone’s always in jeopardy and in danger. And I think, this is an interesting story because Cunanan was this complicated liar, this murderer, and this destroyer, and he was gay,” he said.

Mortality, too, is an inescapable factor given the period setting. “The ’80s are a big part of the story. And people lost a lot of their friends in the ’80s and ’90s in the most horrific circumstances,” Smith said. “If you were making a story set now, to deal with AIDS or not is entirely up the writer, but it’s hard to see how it’s not part of that world in the ’80s and ’90s. It was overwhelming communities.”

Added Smith, “If you want quality, the quality means that some of your stories are going to be disturbing and jagged and not all just upbeat and positive representations of people. The next step in the evolution of equality is, ‘Oh, wait a minute. I want to see a gay ‘Revenant.’ You know, straight men didn’t come out of that feeling, ‘Wow, we got a really bad rap in that movie.’ But they do! They’re the worst people ever! They’re like murderers. They’re terrible! But straight white men are so secure in their identity, the thought didn’t even flicker through their minds.”

Ultimately, Smith is interested in telling character stories that don’t idealize gay lives, but celebrate their complications. “The icon is that [Versace] achieved these great things. But everyone is messy, and I love people’s mess. I love the complications of people.”

Versace’s complications are as much a part of the “American Crime Story” narrative as his successes, especially his health struggles and battles with sister Donatella Versace (played by Penelope Cruz). “The icon thing is interesting, but it doesn’t, to me, rule out that real complexity and sometimes darkness, too,” Smith said.

“No actors want to play just sort of nice people. It’s not interesting. Where do they exist? I don’t know, in the world. So I’m like, I don’t want that. Everyone I know is really complicated. I want the complicated people.”

‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ Writer On Why Equality Means More Complicated Gay Villains

How ‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ Looks Beyond Its Subject

The titular event of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story happens within the first 10 minutes of the nine-hour show. It’s a beautiful day in South Beach, i.e., a normal day in South Beach, and the legendary designer is on his way home to the man he loves. He’s returned from his daily outing to fetch some magazines, unlocking the gates to a mansion that’s unabashedly ostentatious, just like him. Then there are two gunshots, and in between, Versace’s final word: “No.”

And so Ryan Murphy’s latest anthology series dispatches with the version of the story many critics and viewers anticipated: a celebration of a proudly over-the-top titan of fashion, brought to you by a proudly over-the-top titan of TV. That was the expectation set by an Entertainment Weekly cover showcasing Edgar Ramírez as Versace, Penélope Cruz as his sister Donatella, and Ricky Martin as his longtime partner Antonio D’Amico; long before that, it was the reputation afforded by Murphy’s decade-plus of vamping, shark jumping, and general sensibility offending. From the mind that conceived of Nip/Tuck, a retro-ish Florida crime romp even felt like a return to the very form that gave Murphy his start in prestige TV.

Instead, it turns out, Assasination is less about Versace than the five-murder spree that concluded in his gruesome death in July 1997 at the hands of a disturbed young gay man named Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss). This season of American Crime Story begins with the splashiest, most tabloid-friendly part of its narrative and pulls the audience backward into a deeper, sadder story, the majority of whose casualties are much less famous than Versace but no less deserving of our grief and admiration.

“All I knew — as, I think, will be true for most of the audience — was that Versace was shot in Miami on the steps of his house, and I knew the houseboat siege [where Cunanan died by suicide after an eight-day manhunt]. And that was it,” recalls screenwriter Tom Rob Smith, who wrote all nine chapters of Assassination. Then producers Brad Simpson and Nina Jacobson approached him about adapting the Versace story for the second season of the nascent American Crime Story, which had yet to achieve blockbuster success with its first season, The People v. O.J. Simpson. The more Smith researched the Cunanan story, the more he found lying beyond its infamous climax: “I was really taken aback at how [the Versace murder] was really just the tip of this iceberglike structure that went down into this road movie across America, the American Dream, ambition, [and] homophobia.”

Such a broad focus doesn’t mean that Assassination has been warmly received by the Versace family itself, which has greeted the series with the same condemnation it extended to Vulgar Favors, the 1999 book about the Cunanan killings by Vanity Fair contributing writer Maureen Orth. “As we have said, the Versace family has neither authorized nor had any involvement whatsoever in the forthcoming TV series about the death of Mr. Gianni Versace, which should only be considered as a work of fiction,” read a statement issued last week. “Of all the possible portrayals of his life and legacy, it is sad and reprehensible that the producers have chosen to present the distorted and bogus version created by Maureen Orth.”

Long before the family denounced the series, however, Smith had to figure out how to replicate his own experience of being drawn into the Cunanan saga for a larger audience, presumably as ignorant of the lead-up to the Versace killing as he was. So he decided to leverage that ignorance to his advantage, using Versace’s murder as an entry point into a larger story rather than an end in itself. “You start with the thing that everyone knows, and then you guide them backward through the bits that they don’t know,” Smith explains. His approach to the script “became about how we understand the case, myself included, which was that we didn’t understand it.”

Such thinking gave rise to Assassination’s highly unorthodox structure: a reverse-chronological account of Cunanan’s unraveling and its consequences, with every episode moving further back in time from the eponymous event. Along the way, most of Cunanan’s victims get their own spotlight installments, making Assassination almost an anthology within an anthology: A Chicago real estate titan’s dedicated wife throws herself into preserving his legacy. A promising Minneapolis architect comes to terms with his father, who loves his son even as he struggles to understand him. A gay ex-soldier wrestles with the dual identities that the Clinton-era military has ruled to be mutually exclusive.

The result is the only Murphy-associated production that could conceivably be described as “slow,” methodically pausing and pulling apart the action to make space for people whose names have largely been lost to history, except as a footnote to Versace’s sensational death. Though Cunanan is the thread that unites these men and undoubtedly Assassination’s central figure, it isn’t quite accurate to say the show is a character study, at least until its final stretch of episodes, because the viewer watches his monstrous actions without any background information that can excuse or even explain them. “We wanted to say that the victims are the heroes of those episodes. They are the central characters,” Smith says. “Cunanan, in a weird way, is this kind of vortex, a dark abyss. Once he starts killing people, he crosses a line, and he isn’t really human in a way that we understand.” Cunanan’s inscrutability can make Assassination an excruciating watch, but the show consistently foregrounds the killed over their killer.

Versace remains in the picture via flashback throughout the season, albeit mostly as a foil to Cunanan, a habitual liar who uses his looks and extravagant inventions to place himself in proximity to wealth and power. “To me, the shape of the story was always how these two people grow up to be so different,” Smith observes. “They struggle with many of the same issues: homophobia, ambition, being the outsider. One conquers all these problems and becomes this great creator and great celebrator of life. One is beaten and ends up ripping down other people’s success.” Assassination’s view of Versace is almost beatific, holding up the designer as a paragon of vivacity, commitment, and creative genius. Cunanan is a parasite — in the words of one astute observer, “too lazy to work, too proud to be kept.” Versace, on the other hand, is both generative and generous.

Assassination’s flattering presentation of Versace represents an expansion of his presence in Orth’s report, which Smith was tasked with fictionalizing into compelling dramatic television while also doing justice to his real subjects. “It weighs very heavily on you,” Smith says of his first experience writing true crime. (Smith has written four crime novels, including Child 44, and a BBC miniseries, London Spy.) “It’s a great responsibility. These are such amazing people, and I always felt a great sense of privilege to get to know them a little.” Still, there were passages when Smith was obligated to make use of creative license, like the multiday stretch from David Madson’s abduction to his eventual murder. In those cases, Smith says, he did his best to extrapolate from the known facts “in support of those larger truths.” We may not know exactly what Madson and Cunanan said to each other, but we know where each man was coming from, and where they ended up. On Cunanan’s end, “There was some sense that he was in some upside-down, sick way trying to extend the relationship that had long since ended”; on Madson’s, “that was a mix of both fear for your life, but also a sense of, If you go to the police, will they believe you?” From that dynamic, Smith draws almost the entirety of Assassination’s horrific, elegiac fourth episode.

Then there was the biography of Versace himself. One of the Versace family’s principal objections to Vulgar Favors is its assertion that Gianni was HIV-positive, a claim that Orth says is backed up by accounts from the Miami police and is written into the show as canon. “It’s interesting; the book was written in a certain period of time, when things were considered shameful which are now not,” Smith reflects. “I thought we were really trying to undermine [the stigma], and break away all those assumptions. … That was the reason we decided to put that in, as opposed to being salacious or engaging in gossip. Versace was this great breaker-down of convention. He was one of the first out gay celebrities, and he was living with his partner for 15 years. It’s something we celebrate. He represented love in a way that Andrew didn’t.”

Assassination’s handling of HIV is just one dimension of how the show sets out to tell a specifically gay story, looking back on the repression of the ’90s from the more progressive, though by no means perfect, climate of 2018. At the time, Cunanan’s and Versace’s sexuality gave the murder’s media coverage a condescending, almost sadistic edge. In his review of Vulgar Favors for The New York Times, Frank Bruni accused Orth of titillation, though Smith puts it more diplomatically: “At some point, [the book] reads very much like an outsider commenting on a world of which they’re not part, and sometimes that can make you seem quite removed from it. … It’s not contesting some of the descriptions of what’s going on; it’s just saying that some of the words lacked a sense of what the wider picture might have been, emotionally, behind some of these scenarios.”

Conversely, Assassination is not an outsider’s perspective on what it means to be gay in a culture openly hostile to your identity; with the benefit of Smith and Murphy’s insights, the show depicts both a broader culture of homophobia and the tools that helped Versace weather the storm of coming out (namely, his wealth and public acclaim). “The options were, either you’re as successful as Versace … [or] you have to be in the closet,” Smith says. “There were so few options and ways of exploring in this world. I think fundamentally, if you boil it down, it’s a survival show: What decisions do you make to survive in society?” Many people didn’t, and with empathy and hindsight, Assassination aims to explore why.

With two gay men serving as writer and executive producer, Assassination stands out even in TV’s rapidly diversifying landscape for the specificity of its story and the nuance of its psychological observations, however cut-and-dry Cunanan’s grandiose pathology. The season makes for a fascinating follow-up to Feud: Bette and Joan, another potentially high-camp Murphy production that surprised many with its grounded approach. Assassination is also an intriguing prelude to Pose, the ’80s-set New York drama that will break the record for the most trans actors in series regular roles on a single show and presents an opportunity to extend this more somber trend into a new phase of Murphy’s career. Whatever one thinks of Murphy’s infamously maximalist style, the mega-showrunner (Assassination is his second major launch of the month) has played an undeniable role in pluralizing the faces and voices on our televisions.

“I think Ryan is big on telling stories that aren’t told, that have been ignored by people,” Smith says early in our conversation. “This is certainly one of them.” In this sense, Assassination is the opposite of its predecessor. Nearly two years ago, The People v. O.J. took the most over-covered case in the world and confronted the audience with what it had still managed to miss. The Assassination of Gianni Versace shows us what’s allowed to fester when we condemn an entire segment of the population to the dark — and in the process, makes a forceful argument for bringing both bad and good into the light. “Andrew didn’t kill [these people] randomly,” Smith notes. “He was very much motivated by jealousy, and the good that they represented. When you’re telling the story, you feel like you’re celebrating their lives.”

How ‘The Assassination of Gianni Versace’ Looks Beyond Its Subject

Style File: “The Assassination of Gianni Versace” Star Edgar Ramirez Has Weird Taste in Outerwear | Tom + Lorenzo

Sorry to be so blunt in the headline, but once you scroll down, we feel you’ll support us on this one. Great-looking guy who should be able to look great in high fashion, but boy, is he sporting some weird outerwear this week.

What even IS that? It’s like five different jackets got tangled up in a transporter accident. Either he really loves this bizarre Frankenjacket or he has some sort of contractual obligation to wear it, because why would he take his suit jacket off to wear this ugly and unholy hybrid when he could snag a killer coat to throw over the whole thing?

Well, unfortunately, we may have an answer to that. His taste in coats is just as off as his taste in jackets.

Yeah, no. That’s just goofy. We don’t mind a man’s coat with some bold color-blocking, but that yellow is a tough color to work and the placement of it isn’t interesting or stylish, but distracting and distorting. It doesn’t help that the suit doesn’t fit all that great. And really, mister, did you absolutely need to sport a backpack on the way to a promotional event? It looks silly.

Style File: “The Assassination of Gianni Versace” Star Edgar Ramirez Has Weird Taste in Outerwear | Tom + Lorenzo

Versace Represented a Fast Track to the American Dream

There’s a haunting scene about halfway through FX’s The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story where Andrew Cunanan (Darren Criss) dreams that he’s being fitted for a suit by Gianni Versace (Édgar Ramírez) — the man he will soon murder on the steps of his Miami Beach mansion. [Ed. note: While this story contains some light spoilers based on historical fact, they shouldn’t affect your enjoyment of the series whatsoever.]

“This world has wasted me,” Cunanan says, “while it has turned you, Mr. Versace, into a star.” His expression is steely, the scene bathed in lurid red light. “Was it the world, sir?” Versace asks quietly, implying that perhaps Cunanan’s own behavior might be to blame. “Oh, you think you’re better than me?” Cunanan shoot backs. “You’re not better than me. We’re the same. The only difference is you got lucky.”

Much like The People v. OJ Simpson, American Crime Story’s critically lauded first installment, Versace uses a famous murder as a jumping-off point to explore broader truths about our society and culture. Using Maureen Orth’s nonfiction bestseller Vulgar Favors: Andrew Cunanan, Gianni Versace, and the Largest Failed Manhunt in US History as its guide, the season examines Cunanan’s cross-country killing spree that culminated in the designer’s death. And in doing so, it paints a terrifying portrait of the dark underbelly of the American Dream.

The timing couldn’t be better for a series about the reckless, relentless pursuit of prosperity. Consider our current president, elevated on the political stage not for his experience or qualifications, but rather for his presumptive affluence and reality-TV fame. Not too long ago, about half of our country — many of them white and working-class — was sure that Donald Trump could bring back lost jobs and make America wealthy again. So focused were they on restoring the financial success they felt was their birthright, in fact, that they were able to overlook Trump’s habit of telling frequent, flagrant lies.

Our country’s millennials aren’t faring much better. We’re the first generation in modern history to be poorer than our parents, with a financial future crippled by debt, unemployment, and inflation. We’re getting married later, having children later, and buying homes later — that is, if we can afford to buy a home at all. The traditional American Dream has never felt further out of reach. What remains in its place, however, is the glimmering possibility of celebrity.

According to a 2017 study cited by Forbes, more than a quarter of millennials would quit their jobs in exchange for fame. Nearly a third would rather be famous than pursue a career as a doctor or lawyer. The barrier for entry to fame has never been lower thanks to social media, so it’s little wonder why many young people see it as a ticket to overnight success. Call it the new American Dream.

Cunanan, according to both the show and the book, desperately wanted to be famous. He grew up in a working-class San Diego suburb; his parents struggled to make ends meet, but lavished him with attention and praise to the exclusion of his three siblings. They sent him to an exclusive La Jolla private school, bought him a sports car well before he could legally drive, and even gave him the master bedroom in their home. “Every morning when you wake up, and every evening when you go to sleep, I want you to remember that you’re special,” Cunanan’s con-artist father, Modesto “Pete” Cunanan (Jon Jon Briones), tells his young son in one particularly memorable scene. “And that when you feel special, success will follow.”

A witty conversationalist with a reported genius-level IQ, Andrew Cunanan was special. But he was also a narcissist and a pathological liar who spun elaborate (and rather Trumpian) yarns about his upper-crust upbringing, first to his classmates and later to the older, wealthy men he wooed. Relying solely on charm and fanciful fabrication, Cunanan singled out high-rolling types who could finance the extravagant lifestyle he truly felt he deserved. His father, after all, had taught him that appearances — not accomplishments — were the key to success in life. But it wasn’t long until Cunanan’s combined superiority complex and materialism set him on a destructive (and, eventually, murderous) path.

While Cunanan’s precise motive for shooting Versace may still be unknown, the fashion giant’s fame and success in many ways made him the spree killer’s perfect target. With his grand homes in Milan, Miami Beach, Manhattan, and Lake Como, the designer had the real estate portfolio of Cunanan’s dreams. He dined in the finest restaurants, surrounded by boldfaced names; Cunanan, too, had a weakness for high-end cuisine, and would often treat his friends to fancy meals bankrolled by his older lovers. Versace had loads of famous friends and fans, too, from Princess Diana to Madonna — but more than that, he was famous in his own right.

Even the clothes Versace created oozed luxury. Marked by bold prints and bright colors, his designs referenced art, celebrity, and sex, all things Cunanan adored. Some found Versace’s signature aesthetic vulgar, but it’s precisely what contributed to his brand’s aspirational appeal — these were clothes clearly made by a rich person, for rich people. (It’s telling that in Showgirls, Elizabeth Berkley’s character splurges on a “Ver-sayce” dress in order to impress the Las Vegas crowd.) It’s not necessarily that Cunanan wanted a closetful of Versace to call his own — he preferred preppier, more conservative looks — but rather that he fetishized the qualities with which Versace’s clothes were synonymous: money, fame, and success.

“No other major fashion house in the world,” Business Week wrote at the time, “is so closely identified with the life-style of its marquee name designer.” Indeed, Versace’s larger-than-life persona is not only what taunted and tempted Cunanan in the ’90s, but what makes him just as captivating to revisit now, two full decades after his death. That same mythologizing, however, has also created conflict. Earlier this month, the Versace family issued a pair of statements denying its involvement with, and authorization of, Ryan Murphy’s show, calling Orth’s book “bogus” and “full of gossip and speculation.” FX responded with a memo of its own: “We stand by the meticulous reporting of Ms. Orth.”

Orth’s contention that Versace was HIV-positive — and the series’s subsequent portrayal of the designer as such — seems to be a particular point of contention for the family. Still, Murphy’s show paints Versace in a markedly positive light, showing how he overcame both humble beginnings and illness to become one of the world’s most celebrated couturiers.

As Orth reports, Gianni Versace and Andrew Cunanan “started out at roughly the same economic place,” setting him apart from the other famous figures the killer idolized. Born in Calabria, then one of Italy’s poorest regions, Versace developed an interest in fashion as a young boy, studying his dressmaker mother, Francesca, as she worked. In a later episode, we see Francesca offering to teach her son the tricks of the trade in the form of a pep talk that couldn’t be more different from Pete Cunanan’s: “You must do what you love, Gianni,” she says. “But it takes hard work and practice. You must learn how to sew, how to understand the fabrics.”

Versace did just that, and by the time he launched his namesake label in 1978, he already had two decades’s worth of design experience under his belt. With his sister Donatella (played on the series by Penélope Cruz) as his creative director and his brother Santo (portrayed by Giovanni Cirfiera) as his CEO, Versace built his family business from the bottom up, smartly tapping celebrities to fill his fashion shows and star in his campaigns. By the time he was slain in 1997, he’d created an $807 million fashion empire — based on talent and connections, yes, but also hard work.

Cunanan, of course, saw only the fruits of Versace’s labor, not the labor itself — nor the endless public scrutiny the designer faced as he grew more and more famous. According to Orth’s book, rumors swirled for years that the Versace family was tied up with the Mafia. “How else, the international fashion community wanted to know, could they have managed to come from nowhere, spend so lavishly, and keep open so many ‘empty’ boutiques?” she writes. The brand’s profitability, as well as Versace’s personal, profligate spending habits, were often questioned.

The designer’s sexuality, too, made him a target. offers a harrowing, heartbreaking reminder of just how much America’s attitude towards LGTBQ people has shifted since the ’90s, and not even icons like Versace were immune to discrimination. A pivotal scene in the series deals with the designer’s decision to publicly come out during a magazine interview, an incredibly bold move at the time; Donatella urges him to consider how his confession could damage their brand, pointing out how Perry Ellis’s sales slumped after it became clear he suffered from AIDS.

But in the opening sequence of ’s first episode, we don’t see a man defeated by press scandals or pushed into the closet by a homophobic society. All we see is a fashion genius striding down the halls of his opulent mansion, greeting his beautiful, uniformed staff, pausing on his balcony to admire the city he’s single-handedly transformed into a fashion capital. All we see is the dream.

Versace Represented a Fast Track to the American Dream